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1959-D Penny - DD Close AM
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15 posts in this topic

Hi everyone. 

Firstly, thank you all for your time with detailed information and suggestion from your responses regarding my previous post 1941-1969 pennies.

This first one, of course does not have a wheat back or I would be in trouble..lol. However, from what I understand,1959 to 1992 are supposed have wide AM's. Some AM's are easy to understand in difference, but I'm not sure about this one. Also DD vs DDO. I have studied this but still get a bit confused since there are different variations (subtle and extreme). 

I basically don't want to bother putting anything up for auction unless there is a possibility of getting $1,000 or more. I also know that there are certain older coins that might not have errors, are still collectable if in decent condition and can command a good price (1962,1964..etc) The different price guides that I have looked at also, have different info, or don't even have some of the coins I have listed (might be a good sign, not sure..lol). There might be some things that I might have missed on the coins that I will continue to post, or they are just simply for saving. 

I've been stealing hundreds of coins from my parents big water bottle for years now. I've been spending months picking through them and researching as much as I can. It is a bit overwhelming, but fun and perhaps I might get lucky. :)

 

1959-D Penny DD Close AM - Back.png

1959-D Penny DD Close AM - Front.png

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Hi Kellym  a $1000 coin ? I roll hunt all the time and for a for a long time. I do it because I still love it after more than sixty years. If you can find a coin that is worth $100 you are doing better than 99.99% of the coin collector's out there. I wish you the best of luck. All the old stuff is gone and the new stuff is not worth salt. I am not saying it can't happen but the odds are against it.

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Kelly,

An entirely normal cent. If there is any doubling it is almost certainly mechanical and not from a doubled die. Whatever might be present is not visible due to the slightly fuzzy photos.

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   Where shall I begin?   

On 11/19/2023 at 4:00 PM, Kellym said:

 DD vs DDO. I . . . get a bit confused.

  "DD" means "doubled die", without the side that shows the doubling specified. "DDO" means doubled die obverse. "DDR" means doubled die reverse. They're all abbreviations referring to doubled dies, not to any other phenomenon. (Doubled dies are classified as die varieties, not as mint errors. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com).)   Were you referring to the differences between a doubled die on the one hand and worthless strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling on the other hand? See Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com).  I also see no doubling of any kind on the coin you posted.

On 11/19/2023 at 4:00 PM, Kellym said:

I basically don't want to bother putting anything up for auction unless there is a possibility of getting $1,000 or more.

   This would be like winning the Mega Millions lottery! I have collected coins and gone through my and relatives' change for the past fifty-two years and never found any coin in circulation worth more than a few dollars, whether because it was a silver coin, a better date, mint, or condition coin; a mint error or a die variety. The only legitimate mint errors I have ever found are a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters. I know a number of long-time collectors and know of only one case where any of them received a mint error of significant value in change, a struck Lincoln cent that had been overstruck by Jefferson nickel dies. Even that major error is only worth a few hundred dollars, not a thousand dollars or more! (Such significant errors are hardly ever found on coins issued after 2002 due to new equipment and procedures instituted by the U.S. mint that year, and even before that most significant errors that escaped mint inspection were likely intercepted at banks and counting houses and purchased by coin dealers.)

   As others have indicated, you have posted photos of an ordinary circulated 1959-D Lincoln cent. The Lincoln Memorial reverse was only instituted that year, and only one master die is known to have been used to create the "hubs" and working dies used to coin the nearly 1.3 billion 1959-D cents, so there are no different wide or close "AM" varieties. The only way you could prove otherwise would be to show noticeably different "AM" widths or other design characteristics on different pieces from that same year.

   You've obviously been getting incorrect or incomplete information, likely from the internet. Please refer to the resources linked in my post on your initial topic. 

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If you are possibly referring to a D over D mintmark as either doubling or an error, it would be called an RPM (Repunched Mint Mark). If it were, it also would not be an error but rather a variety. For the 1959 D, there are 6 varieties of repunched mintmarks basically due to variations in the positions. The mintmarks in this year were applied to the dies by hand resulting in the differences. I don't think I see an RPM on your cent and would probably need a closeup of the mint mark to verify that. I also do not see any doubling and if you are seeing any it is most likely then just strike doubling from worn or loose dies during the strike.

In 1992 there was a close AM and a wide AM variety, the wide AM being normal and the close AM an attributed variety. Also in 1998, 1999, and 2000, there is a wide AM variety for each year. There is no differences on the AM in 1959.

Your cent looks to be a normal cent with light circulation and a few spots of environmental damage.

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DD is double die, O is for obverse and R is for reverse.

Interestingly, this issue has occurences of double, triple and quadruple D.  In any case, from the image, it does not appear to be a double mint D or any otheh DDO variety. 

Also, many die varieties are not particularly valuabe and there are 3 methods that would indicate the value, first, would be the specific variable line in the prices list for the variety, second would be the rarity rating, which an R4 may indicate a valuable variety, lastly, the price on ebay for a die variety or attribute.

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I think I just puked a little bit.

OBV is short for obverse, REV is short for reverse. O is the mint mark for New Orleans mint.

To the OP, and anyone else reading through threads across this forum, please do NOT take any advice from dprince1138.

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On 11/19/2023 at 4:00 PM, Kellym said:

I basically don't want to bother putting anything up for auction unless there is a possibility of getting $1,000 or more.

In addition to collecting more valuable coins I go thru rolls of coins I like, and previpusly also buckets of pocket change, looking for very good or unusual coins.  This is not meant to discourage you, but I would also consider it very lucky to find something worth $100, let alone $1,000, from just rolls of coins.

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On 11/20/2023 at 6:54 PM, edhalbrook said:

You are posting stolen coins? And you are just in it to get rich quick off the stolen goods? 

Excuse me? Do you not understand the fact that I'm a newbie? If I wanted to just sell anything without confirmation or authenticity, I wouldn't bother with this forum. What is wrong with you? Your judgement is out of place and makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. BTW, These are coins from my parents coin jar that they have just thrown coins in there for many years.

I appreciate all the professionals (not like you) that have answered my many posts with educational advise, as well as there honest opinions on my coins. That is what I expect. Not your BS. Please move on, and work on your unjustified judgement issues.

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