Questionable 1908-s due to the price might not be real but I trust the man don't get me wrong this came from a legitimate dealer! 1 1

[pigeonman333rd]

This was a coin the dealer knew I wanted and because I'm a good customer came with a huge discount no luck selling to the man but for the price more like a gift. I can't tell you what I paid for it that would hurt the price or trade value in my case. I would like to know if it looks like a genuine coin even if it's an altered S that won't hurt my value of the coin so it's not an S it's a p but if its an outright counterfeit my mistake guys! What do you think?

[pigeonman333rd]

I can't find my coin camera sd drive but I will!

[RWB]

Sounds as if you are trying to convince yourself of something.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/5/2023 at 4:27 PM, RWB said:

Sounds as if you are trying to convince yourself of something.

Hey ana suggest to try to collect most expensive key dates first to start collecting them in highest grades affordable! I used a legitimate source so my question should be is it worth certification or is it ingenuine.?

[Sandon]

  The mint mark appears to be of the correct style and in the correct location. The coin appears to be genuine and has Ch. EF or perhaps AU details.  However, either of the large, deep nick on the upper left of the obverse or the large area of discoloration on the upper reverse would likely render the coin a "problem" coin that a grading service would give a "details" grade. This is probably why it was sold at a discount.
 

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/5/2023 at 7:48 PM, Sandon said:

  The mint mark appears to be of the correct style and in the correct location. The coin appears to be genuine and has Ch. EF or perhaps AU details.  However, either of the large, deep nick on the upper left of the obverse or the large area of discoloration on the upper reverse would likely render the coin a "problem" coin that a grading service would give a "details" grade. This is probably why it was sold at a discount.
 

The guy liked the fact that I was willing to sell one of my folders of semi key dates at blue book value or trade for the coins and pay for the rest he told me im young I should be accumulating!

[pigeonman333rd]

He said he would come down in price to please me.

[l.cutler]

I would never be able to say a coin is genuine just from pictures, but I don't see any red flags.  Definitely some damage, but still has eye appeal.

[Coinbuf]

A damaged details coin, that is the type of coin many collectors avoid and are not interested in acquiring.

[RWB]

On 1/5/2023 at 9:19 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

so my question should be is it worth certification or is it ingenuine.?

Then ask those clearly and directly.

The old ANA suggestion is a good one - but applies to normal, undamaged coins. A "problem" coin will always be a "problem" coin.

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

There is no Santa Claus in numismatics.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/6/2023 at 1:29 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

There is no Santa Claus in numismatics.

Oh I wouldn't say that what about starting up youngsters with rare modern coins in Proof 65 plus! Not to say that you can charge a young Huckel Buck but by cutting up Proof set's one to make proof set's more rare and to get coins to certify, makes for cheap cents, nickels, and dimes you know. For example paying .10 cents a proof nickel or .20 cents a proof dime or .2 cents a proof cent in large quantities to start young collectors is Santa Like when you give them as gifts to children. Let us not forget if we ever want to be free of coin debt we need to keep collectors collecting! I was started in such the same manner from my uncle with my three1943 steel cents that are some of the best condition coins I have ever owned shiny spotless and not recoated. My first 1909 was given to me at 9 years old and my dad bought me my first 1909 vdb for $2.50 which is about a very fine 20 which is probably only worth .35 but that's besides the point. That stuff is all Santa Clause like behavior. I can't even count the amount of 2009 copper satin cent sets I have given youngsters. The point is The Santa Clause of Numismatics is yourself!  

[pigeonman333rd]

I do not ever plan to call myself a Numismatist no matter what level of education I receive and mark my word I can and I will get educated, or how high the quality of a coin I own is. I am a world renowned Hoarder of fine junk! God comes first!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/6/2023 at 12:36 PM, RWB said:

Then ask those clearly and directly.

The old ANA suggestion is a good one - but applies to normal, undamaged coins. A "problem" coin will always be a "problem" coin.

Well that is my problem coin and I have no plan on selling key dates, let the collector find their own key dates, but I believe in selling sets with no key dates consisting of coins you found in change or purchased for cheap to buy or trade for a key dates in any condition! Even the most worn Po1 corrosion detail key date is still a key date. 

[JT2]

you should pass on this one  you can find better...

[VKurtB]

On 1/8/2023 at 1:44 AM, pigeonman333rd said:

Well that is my problem coin and I have no plan on selling key dates, let the collector find their own key dates, but I believe in selling sets with no key dates consisting of coins you found in change or purchased for cheap to buy or trade for a key dates in any condition! Even the most worn Po1 corrosion detail key date is still a key date. 

Our philosophies are 180 degrees opposite to each other. For me, the highest possible condition is Job One in ALL coinage matters, key date or not. “Problem coins”, even if key dates (maybe even especially those), are of ZERO interest to me. 

Edited January 14, 2023 by VKurtB

[pigeonman333rd]

I have never had problems trading key dates for better condition coins in quantity. I just increased my 2009 copper cent hoard for a 1922-d cull and a 1924-d cull increase of 200 coins and I gave them a page of 1950-s and 1940-s bag marked uncirculated coins that fell out of the roll to keep them happy. So 23.00+45.00 retail plus 1.00X20 cases plus 1.00 per page plus  equals $70 for 200 coins so .35 cents a coin much better than 1.68 per coin like I paid for 200 coins recently. I never plan to sell my copper satin cents just hoard at 1000 i'm shy of that now but to me 1000 is plenty. I like them because they are easiest to start young collectors that show an interest in pennies and have no money. I have a .25 box for them to rummage thru with 1950's-1940's wheat cents and a few cull indian's with faint dates but literally no more then 30.00 value for the box. I only put cull clear dates in sets but I have just started my first set which should retail with no key date for 150.00 but to the right buyer not ebay. I am missing most of the thirties waiting on coin roll hunting but I refuse to put f12 plus coins other then 1940's and 1950's those have to be extra fine like the ones in change and only  unc coins 1959-1974 p/d/s. I add up the price I paid for anything I paid for and increase 150%. The copper satin cents retail at 5.95 free shipping so $10 abp for proof 65 is inaccurate and I aim for half the buying price. However 1.68 is closer to 1/4 the buying price and I only buy set's of 8 not individual coins. Look at it this way if they keep cutting proof sets the abp will go up and as long as I never sell coins will be limited but obtainable 100 years from now. I never plan to buy an ms70 or proof 70 if it's expensive but thru coin roll hunting I may find one. I do collect the cull copper satin cents in change I have one page of circulated proof cents but no complete set among the culls. I have six with the building on the back and 14 Lincoln reading reverse but if some one offered me 10 to buy one of those I would take it and buy more rolls from local dealer of semi key date cull coins with the date for like 8-25 dollars but no more then that. The dealer gets mad at me when I buy individual key dates but refuse to buy bag marked unc 1940's and 1950's coins for 100 dollars a roll. In my opinion 100 dollars a roll is highway robbery but to entertain him I bought on 1939-s roll for 40.00 dollars a rip off I know all extra fine except one coin a fine obverse and g reverse I used in my set. When I cherry picked the set I bought I kept the 1938-s and 1939-s they look au but I label them fine with luster. Now the problem is finding culls at like.25 cents a piece for semi key dates like 1912-d, 1915d,the 1920's and 1930's all in clear date culls all the coins I have in those dates are to good to sell. My guess is a quarter here a quarter their will drive my asking price for this set up. I am a hoarder not a numismatist I need to go to school for that but I'm far from that college starts again in August I'm done with the prerequisites but I have to apply for the culinary institute. This process will take 3 years 2 at the institute and one on externship. Then it's off to electrician apprenticeship and that's two years plus 1 year externship so that's six years then it's time to go to six month ana program if it still exists. Highly unlikely will I ever rank among the true coin collectors. I'm attached to every rare coin I find in change and I found 2 1983 double dies,2 1931S cents, and 2 1922's faint coins. I wouldn't pay more then 40.00 a piece for any of those dates.    

[pigeonman333rd]

10 for 1922-d,20 for 1924-d,40 for 1931-s, and 40 for 1983 double die. 

[Hoghead515]

On 1/14/2023 at 4:59 PM, VKurtB said:

Our philosophies are 180 degrees opposite to each other. For me, the highest possible condition is Job One in ALL coinage matters, key date or not. “Problem coins”, even if key dates (maybe even especially those), are of ZERO interest to me. 

Pretty much the same here. Putting my quarter set together I had a chance to get the 1932 d in AU details at a reasonable price and passed on it about a year ago. Had the money for it at the time to. It had been cleaned and I knew I wouldnt be happy with it so I passed on it. People may call me crazy but Id rather have an XF problem free coin than an AU details problem coin. Now maybe if it was something with only a couple know examples or something like that Id be happy to take it. But some key dates are common enough where Id rather not have a problem coin. 

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/14/2023 at 3:42 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Pretty much the same here. Putting my quarter set together I had a chance to get the 1932 d in AU details at a reasonable price and passed on it about a year ago. Had the money for it at the time to. It had been cleaned and I knew I wouldnt be happy with it so I passed on it. People may call me crazy but Id rather have an XF problem free coin than an AU details problem coin. Now maybe if it was something with only a couple know examples or something like that Id be happy to take it. But some key dates are common enough where Id rather not have a problem coin. 

You make a good point but impulse spending at bargain prices is how you hoard and high quality coins is how you collect that is what I do to my hoard are either in rolls or in books but my collection of found in change, quality coins, and key dates are in one folder not huge but steadily growing. I think I'm going to let a few people search my 4 four a dollar bin a few more times with a limit of one dollar spent on four coins with a 1% rebate of one cent of my choosing with a case for the last few times. Next I will dismantle it to use the fine coins for another set. Currently their is only 126 cents with cases fine or better in their but to roll hunt I will need those cases as mine are running low. I only let kids search the for for 1.00 bin and usually the coin I give them I paid .29 cents for is usually worth more then a dollar to see that they got their moneys worth. I go by a list of semi precious mintages when I coin roll hunt and case anything f12 or better. If the coin is not a semi precious date or mintage say under 20 million it goes in a roll for example 1940's and 1950's cents. I need to hunt more dimes and nickels but the bank will do a box at a time for those if they have them available. They dealers here pay .25 cents per silver dime unbelievable price when they retail them at 3 dollars a piece or 6 for 6 dollars which changed when I bought all of them one day. I do try to talk to people before they go into shops and ask if they are selling anything but most people think you mean weed and I always have to clarify coins silver gold or paper money. I have yet to get caught by the shop owners and only had one buy or sell moment a 1907 g4 indian head cent I bought a few coins for 7 dollars and sold one g4 for 5 dollars because the shop sells them for 6. I'm trying to sell 1910-1919 p sets without 1915 for 9 dollars but no buyers. I did however buy a 1868 two cent piece with that five dollar the price was 6 dollars at the shop to keep business good so no profit. I figure its worth the two dollars I actually spent on it. I gave it to dad he collects them all but only has one high grade extra fine 1870 and I can't remember what motto it is I spent 80.00 dollars on it for a fathers day gift. I think I paid double the abp on that coin but I knew he wanted one.      

[pigeonman333rd]

I meant to say I bought the g4 Indians 6 for 6 dollars. But that has changed since I bought the six the guy has gotten greedy. 

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/14/2023 at 1:59 PM, VKurtB said:

Our philosophies are 180 degrees opposite to each other. For me, the highest possible condition is Job One in ALL coinage matters, key date or not. “Problem coins”, even if key dates (maybe even especially those), are of ZERO interest to me. 

Show me your 1908-s Indian head cent! I would love to stare at the gem. I can't afford one my self but my 1909 matte finish proof gives me jollys and so does my Indian head. 

[VKurtB]

On 1/14/2023 at 7:03 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

Show me your 1908-s Indian head cent! I would love to stare at the gem. I can't afford one my self but my 1909 matte finish proof gives me jollys and so does my Indian head. 

I do not have a 1908-S Indian because I have not yet found one that is appropriate for my set. It’s on the checklist. I do not have a problem with empty holes in the albums. I’ll wait for one I like. No problem. I have two cent sets working - one for the best of the best I have (not graded/slabbed - I don’t care about that). I also have another Dansco for “not individually bought” coins. It has only circ finds and bulk purchase coins, like a big bag of cents. I have to travel usually to get my new D cents each year. They’re hard to find nice enough in circulation. Oddly, the Denver dimes are easy to find here in great condition. 

Edited January 15, 2023 by VKurtB

[pigeonman333rd]

I have a dansco folder I need inserts for the plan is to do wheat cent UNC coins only trying to get a rare or variety in every year like a bie mark error in a high mintage year or a filled date or a double die cent to have a rare cent for every space. I do have 1945 one in copper one in bronze one in brass red, red brown and yellow. With your taste in coins sir I'm sure your set will be breathtaking! Keep up the good work.

[VKurtB]

On 1/14/2023 at 8:12 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

I have a dansco folder I need inserts for the plan is to do wheat cent UNC coins only trying to get a rare or variety in every year like a bie mark error in a high mintage year or a filled date or a double die cent to have a rare cent for every space. I do have 1945 one in copper one in bronze one in brass red, red brown and yellow. With your taste in coins sir I'm sure your set will be breathtaking! Keep up the good work.

You can get “plain” cent sized hole pages. 19mm pages work too, but have fewer holes for some odd reason. 

[pigeonman333rd]

1. I bought it already I will spend a little more for the prestige of the Dansco leather bound luxury version. The proofs are rare in some years so a rare for every space will be fun.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/14/2023 at 6:18 PM, VKurtB said:

You can get “plain” cent sized hole pages. 19mm pages work too, but have fewer holes for some odd reason. 

Here's my my 1945's I got for 2.50 p/d/s bronze brass and copper for my set when I get the cases.

[pigeonman333rd]

I just embarrassed my self by approaching the best looking woman I have ever seen pissed her off so I guess better to have tried and lost then to have never have tried before! 

[Hoghead515]

On 1/16/2023 at 4:42 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

I just embarrassed my self by approaching the best looking woman I have ever seen pissed her off so I guess better to have tried and lost then to have never have tried before! 

Some of those good looking ones are struck on themselves and uptite. Not all but several. Better off to get you an average looker with a great attitude. Youll enjoy your time with her more. To stay on topic find one who enjoys collecting coins also. Fun to grow a collection together. 

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/17/2023 at 9:36 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Some of those good looking ones are struck on themselves and uptite. Not all but several. Better off to get you an average looker with a great attitude. Youll enjoy your time with her more. To stay on topic find one who enjoys collecting coins also. Fun to grow a collection together. 

Unfortunately I have to stick to my community I would love to have a regular girl friend but I have a medical condition and I have to stay inside the community. Brother I seen the most amazing coin today helping my friend sort out her great grand fathers coin collection of 1930'-1970's error coins all mint state except for one a double headed 1955 steel cent that was circulated with one head correct position and the other reverse direction but the dates read 55 not 1955. I think its genuine because unlike my magicians coin theirs no lip where a coin was inserted inside a coin.