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Is it okay to ask for grade and value opinion?
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53 posts in this topic

I have coins I will post here for sale exclusively for now. If it is appropriate to ask for grade and value I could use some help. I know having coins graded will maximize the value and price realized but I don’t have the interested. I’m fact looking at it as a gift. If I post a coin that could potentially be worth a small fortune if graded that’s another story. I would like to know about that if you would help me out on that. I’ll post one at a time after this pair of Mercury head dimes. Sorry about my images. I’m slowly improving.

Thiese two coins feel special they all do actually but this ones giving me some vibes.

I appreciate the people who take this serious and how me out instead of being rude. It’s not hard to be a target when your ignorant to information. Please be kind and who knows maybe it will pay off for the right collector!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Brian Lavin
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I've noticed that the graded coins definitely bring a larger premium. The 1916 D is definitely worth sending in if it is authentic. I'm still fairly new to collecting but I've learned alot in the past couple years. However there are some experts on here that can help you much better than I can. I've learned alot from these guys. 

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Can you post more of the 16D? Clear and focused? That one is more than a little intriguing. Let’s get a better look and go from there. 

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The 28D appears uncirculated, but it isn’t full bands. It took a hit on the middle band that would prevent that and I can’t tell for sure on the top bands. Without full bands it’s still a collectible and somewhat valuable coin. Clearer pictures of it would be very helpful also. It has some areas that may be an issue but need to see it better. 
 

Can I ask how you came about these coins? And what made you think these two “felt special”? I’m wondering how out of stack you picked these two?

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It is certainly ok and even encouraged to ask for grade and value opinions.   However for us to be able to answer your questions you need to provide clear, in focus, well lit, cropped photos so that we can see what it is you want opinions on.   None of the photos you have provided meet any (except being cropped) of the criteria for us to provide any meaningful replies or opinions.

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I feel like I’ve seen these 1928-D photos before, on this board. I get that feeling because I commented it was my favorite among several another poster showed.

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I can't imagine anyone with any knowledge of coins buying the 1916D just from a picture, especially one that is not very clear. It is a key date, so is likely to be counterfeited. I would be very surprised if  you were not required to have it authenticated before anyone on this forum would take a chance on it. Unless, of course, you can find someone who likes to gamble. The same thing applies to the coins that you posted in another thread. The pictures are not clear enough, and the coins are too valuable, to take that kind of risk.

Edited by Just Bob
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Thank you for your honest opinions. The 1916 is a 1916 plain. I sold the 1916D already to local collector. He told me it was the nicest he had ever seen. His offer bought me a new car. That’s no joke. He has a PCGS 66 that when compared couldn’t hold a candle to the one he has. He told me IF he gets a 68 I will receive another slice of pie. I did not bring other coins because that’s what he wanted. So oddly enough that’s sold. The 1928D must show something in the pictures that’s misleading. It hasn’t taken a hit but is pinched as though it was one of the first 100 minted. It’s clean and fully detailed. I want to say flawless. I am on my way to see someone who is going to take some pictures of the others I have. So hopefully new images today..

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There is nothing sketchy about any of my coins. They are 100% genuine to offer them for sale as genuine and then sell them know they are fake is fraud. Illegal and a felony. I wouldn’t sell a fake anything. I sand behind the genuineness of these coins to the point that anyone who purchases a coin from me will be able to verify who I am. I will provide an image of my license with the license number blacked out. So please let’s avoid that subject. I find kind of an insult. I agree those kind of people are out there but I am not one of them. In fact  selling fake  coins could bring troubles like mail fraud, wire fraud all kinds of life damaging consequences. I just want to Best Buy thinking I might buy a good macro camera but I am not signing up for a $2000 camera. I am willing to do iPhone video chat and display the coin you might want live in hand. That’s a beautiful option. You don’t need to show me your face just  watch the video. The 1928D Mercury head I have is beyond beautiful and possibly amongst the finest known. I’m not going to be shy about it. As far as full bands this coin has it all. I have a couple that might be worth having graded that’s one of my questions. If someone with knowledge is willing I will do an video conference. I am going to do some work on getting better images now. It’s a real pain in the neck for me but it’s worth it. What does it cost for a quick return for a slabbed coin? Say a two week turn around. I have an 1978 proof that is so mind boggling it needs to be graded.  I am looking for some honest opinions of value based on grade. If I can get a video on here I will. I’m going to work now. Give me an hour. I’ll see if I can get some impressive images on here.

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On 7/17/2021 at 6:27 PM, Just Bob said:

I can't imagine anyone with any knowledge of coins buying the 1916D just from a picture, especially one that is not very clear. It is a key date, so is likely to be counterfeited. I would be very surprised if  you were not required to have it authenticated before anyone on this forum would take a chance on it. Unless, of course, you can find someone who likes to gamble. The same thing applies to the coins that you posted in another thread. The pictures are not clear enough, and the coins are too valuable, to take that kind of ris

Edited by Brian Lavin
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On 7/17/2021 at 7:42 PM, Brian Lavin said:

Bob so basically you are accusing me of attempting fraud right? Is this correct or am

I misunderstanding you. Can you clearly answer this question?

Brian,

The fact is that there are many many times more fake, but convincing looking 1916-D dimes than real ones. Maybe 50 or 100 to every one. Therefore, without exquisitely detailed photos, the only rational way to be is suspicious, on that one in particular. For me personally, there would be no such thing as an adequate photograph. None at all. It would have to be in my hand, in the correct light, with a diagnostics manual right there next to me. This is especially so for a high grade one, since almost all real ones are badly worn.

Edited by VKurtB
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The 1916D has been sold. I do have my 1928D. I’m going to work on images. If your not comfortable then the. Eat thing to do is pass. I have shown these to dealers. They made all the moves on me. I had good offers but no sale on principal. Again fraud is a crime that has no borders. I’m all set with that. These are just great coins. I’ll get good pictures. Better pictures anyway.

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On 7/17/2021 at 7:59 PM, Brian Lavin said:

The 1916D has been sold. I do have my 1928D. I’m going to work on images. If your not comfortable then the. Eat thing to do is pass. I have shown these to dealers. They made all the moves on me. I had good offers but no sale on principal. Again fraud is a crime that has no borders. I’m all set with that. These are just great coins. I’ll get good pictures. Better pictures anyway.

Color me interested in the 28-D. 

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Well let me work on perfection for you. I’ll get you the best pictures I am capable. If you want to see it live pm me. I’ll give you my telephone number and you can view it live. I’m working with this home made setup.

 

32B5E36F-64C7-47F8-8C7C-0A835FA2A10E.jpeg

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The 28 D looks high AU (almost uncirculated). The spot I have circled is a concern but I can’t tell much about it. If it’s a scratch it is an issue. Assuming, and this is a big if based on what we can see, it is an AU58 you are looking at roughly $125 give or take. Graded it may be $145, raw it may bring $120. But again I worry about this I have circled. And it may be lower AU  

AE2A91D4-E86E-4C71-8C37-5F3367963DDC.jpeg

Edited by Woods020
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I’m still curious where you happened upon an unknown 1916-D that someone thinks would go higher than MS 66? There were 264k total minted period, and not many in mint state survived. I believe only 7 known higher than MS66 in full bands. Those don’t get found every day. It should have bought you one heck of a new car. That coin will probably be my biggest purchase of a coin in my lifetime when I bite the bullet and complete my merc set. And I dream to be able to have an MS 64/65 FB. That is my white wale. 

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Well I would tell you but then I don’t have to do I. None of these coins have ever been publicly offered. 
My 1916D 10C is not one of one. I actually have one other. It was the owners prized coin. I paid exactly $0.00 for these coins. How about that. I will be submitting my other 1916D. I showed it to the man and women who bought the other 1916D. They offered me stupid money. But I told them no. The stupid money will be needed for the one they bought. And today while running around I stopped to buy this with a cashiers check. The rest will be used to buy 14 Anderson windows for my house before I sell it. I will be selling my comic book collection next. I have the golden rings in comics. #1 super man in unheard of condition. #1 spider man in unopened condition Monday others. See I inherited these for lack of a better term from a collector. When they tell you the contents in its entirety well that’s what you pay for.

I HAVE THE REST OF THE IMAGES COMING UP! Please help me with grade and prices. I’ll post them for sale. I do have some locals watching so if your interested please let me know.

So if it ever stops raining we can take a ride in the new slide…..
 

0DF71A54-95B6-4D8D-BC22-6D61D4FBBFB5.jpeg

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By the way yes that scratch is there but the image makes it look bad. I’m sorry but your assessment is no agreeable. I have been offered over $600 by cheap coin dealers but thank you for your opinion. I believe a dealer would lick that scratch off. I have no interest in touching these. I’ll cause damage. That’s a very faint scratch when in hand. Very faint. Tempting but nope me no touch.

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The 1887 3-cent MAY be a proof, but I can’t tell for certain.

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With your photos, is it possible to get them just a bit darker? If it were an old school manual camera, I might want one full f-stop.

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On 7/17/2021 at 9:55 PM, Brian Lavin said:

It has been confirmed that it is a proof. It’s a weird scenario. 
 

Wow, so this old boy ain’t blind yet! Whoopee! Made my night!

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GENERALLY, (do NOT GET SPECIFIC) what geographical region are you in? Like I say “Northern Alabama”.

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