• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

help in identifying please?

Started by moneyhoney,

43 posts in this topic

cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted

It looks like it could be a 1926 Peace Dollar, but I don't know which mint it came from because the mintmark is located on the reverse along the edge between 7 & 8 o'clock.

 

By the way, Roger is the author of the Guide Book of Peace Dollars published by Whitman Books.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted
The MM is completely worn off. I consider this junk silver, would that be a good assumption?

 

Believe it or not, there are some collectors who try to build sets of coins in the poorest possible condition. I wouldn't write it off as junk silver just yet.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wdrob

wdrob

Posted
Posted

Believe it or not, there are some collectors who try to build sets of coins in the poorest possible condition. I wouldn't write it off as junk silver just yet.

 

Absolutely. That is not junk silver and as Chris pointed out, PCGS has a 'Lowball' registry set where the object is to assemble the lowest grade coins possible. That one would be an excellent candidate if you choose to have it graded by PCGS and then list it on eBay.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted

Believe it or not, there are some collectors who try to build sets of coins in the poorest possible condition. I wouldn't write it off as junk silver just yet.

 

Absolutely. That is not junk silver and as Chris pointed out, PCGS has a 'Lowball' registry set where the object is to assemble the lowest grade coins possible. That one would be an excellent candidate if you choose to have it graded by PCGS and then list it on eBay.

 

 

Why go to the expense of submitting it for grading? Let the owner of one of the lowball registry sets submit it.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bsshog40

bsshog40

Posted
Posted
that's why this is so complicated to understand..so many different opinions. However, it's good to get a positive feedback.

You shouldn't let answers to your posts confuse you so much. There have been 2 opinions made here. One is that your peace dollar is worn and worth melt value. In all other circumstances, this would be correct. BUT, there are a few collectors that collect extremely worn coins. I forget the exact name of what they are called, lowballs, poormans, everymans collection??? Of course they only collect them graded by pcgs. These are problem free coins also, which means that pcgs gives the coins a numerical grade with no Details mentioned. Someone on the pcgs forum might be interested in it for more than the melt value. Don't really know what they pay for these type worn coins. I know this has been suggested before but I do suggest that you get some numismatic books and learn. The redbook is a good place to start. the internet has a lot of valueable info also. It looks to me that you need some knowledge is areas such as what are circulation marks and wear. Errors are basically far and few between. I've only started back collecting again about 10 yrs ago. To this day I have never found an error coin in change. Not everything with a mark on it is an error. There are a lot of very knowledegable and helpful members here and you should know this by now. I really think that a lot of your confusion can be cleared up with searching the internet with a lot of your questions and reading articles. You'd be surprised of the info you can find. The members here are always available to help but remember the old saying "God helps those who help themselves". Just something to ponder my friend!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
moneyhoney

moneyhoney

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you, I have A GUIDE BOOK OF UNITED STATES COINS..66th edition 2013. I had it for years and just learning how to use it but, still confused on prices. Are these the prices they are sold for, or how much they are worth in each condition? If I wanted to sell a coin would this be a guide on choosing the agreeable price?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bsshog40

bsshog40

Posted
Posted
Thank you, I have A GUIDE BOOK OF UNITED STATES COINS..66th edition 2013. I had it for years and just learning how to use it but, still confused on prices. Are these the prices they are sold for, or how much they are worth in each condition? If I wanted to sell a coin would this be a guide on choosing the agreeable price?

If you're looking to sell coins, go to ebay and search for the type and date of the coin your are wondering about and see what most are going for. One thing you need to consider is Condition. You need to be able to figure out as close as you can, the grade of the coin also. PHOTOGRADE and ANA GRADING STANDARDS are very good books with pictures that you may want to look in to purchasing. They are very helpful guides for learning how to grade coins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveG

DaveG

Posted
Posted

moneyhoney,

 

The prices in the Red Book (A Guide Book of United States Coins) are RETAIL prices - that is, they are about what you would expect to pay if you bought a particular coin at a coin shop.

 

Most collectors consider the prices in the Red Books to be a little high. This is probably because coin shops have higher fixed costs than dealers who sell at coin shows or on eBay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted
I have a guide book of United States Coins 66th edition, 2013

 

The Red Book is good for all sorts of information EXCEPT the price guides.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted
that's why this is so complicated to understand..so many different opinions. However, it's good to get a positive feedback.

 

The reason I don't think you should submit it for grading is because it would probably cost you more than the coin would be worth to one of the lowball collectors.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
messydesk

messydesk

Posted
Posted

Looks like it could be a 26-D, but I'd have to see it in hand to make sure I'm not just seeing a speck of dirt on the reverse. Pretty much worth melt, unless you can get it into a Poor 1 graded holder, then it's a population 1 lowball coin that could sell for $200 as worst known. Yeah, lowball collecting doesn't make sense to a lot of people, but it makes a lot of sense to a few.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
moneyhoney

moneyhoney

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks going have to do research on the terms you are using. All I can say is the coin comes from my father's store which he operated for many years. He wasn't a collector but he kept odd looking coins. We live in a small town and get very few odd looking coins. I have no ideal how the Canadians, and other coins got in the mix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cpm9ball

cpm9ball

Posted
Posted
Looks like it could be a 26-D, but I'd have to see it in hand to make sure I'm not just seeing a speck of dirt on the reverse. Pretty much worth melt, unless you can get it into a Poor 1 graded holder, then it's a population 1 lowball coin that could sell for $200 as worst known. Yeah, lowball collecting doesn't make sense to a lot of people, but it makes a lot of sense to a few.

 

Thanks, John! I really have no idea what collectors of these coins are willing to pay.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TonerGuy

TonerGuy

Posted
Posted

I like it for a low-ball set. If its got some scratches -- that can be worn away with a few more years as a pocket piece. I think that one's got a chance at being worth some money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wdrob

wdrob

Posted
Posted

 

Why go to the expense of submitting it for grading? Let the owner of one of the lowball registry sets submit it.

 

Chris

 

Excellent point. (thumbs u

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Coindude

Coindude

Posted
Posted
Looks harshly cleaned with scratches on the obverse that you can barely see. Looks like a $15 coin to me.
Scratches on the reverse as well. $15 at best. I don't think it would grade problem free and therefore not worth the $45 that has previously been stated. Plus why would someone take the time to slab a coin that's worth $15 raw to get $45? It doesn't make sense to put $20 into a coin like that to get it graded and then most likely not get graded due to the cleaning. Best to just keep it or sell it to someone who would offer $15.

 

That being said your PM might blow up with $15 offers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mtnstyne

mtnstyne

Posted
Posted

I would recommend if you want to try for $200 you should sell the peace dollar for around $15 and buy scratch tickets.

 

Trying to get it into a holder that would garner you a $200 payday would be a gamble. You can try to market it as a raw poor-man candidate but I think you will find that it's the little plastic slab and grading slip that are worth the extra money and not the coin.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Go to topic listing