In your opinions, how much does a coin have to be worth to be graded?

[Danye West]

I would not send a coin in if I didn't think it was worth over $80, because it's $22-$25 a coin at PCGS or NGC.

What do you all think?

[cpm9ball]

A better figure would probably be $200-$300. If the grading fees represent 25% or more of the value, it is not very likely you could make a profit, let alone get your money back.

 

Chris

[ldhair]

I'm at about $250 or more but not saying every coin above that needs to be graded. At the same time, I have sent special coins in just to have them in a good holder.

[PerryHall]

Depends on the coin. You have to ask yourself if the grading fee will add enough value to the coin to just justify the grading cost. I doubt that a common date Saint that's circulated or cleaned is worth slabbing although it has a value greater than $1200.

[MarkFeld]

I don't think the value of the coin is as important as the added value from grading.

 

The key is whether (and by how much) the added value is greater than the grading and postage fees.

 

If a group of $10 coins can be transformed into a group of $50 coins, through grading, they might be worth submitting. On the other hand, a $1000 coin that will be come a $1050 coin might not be worth getting graded.

[coinsbygary]

I come at this question from a different angle. As a participant in NGC's registry and a theme based custom set collector, if a coin makes a great addition to my collection it gets graded. More often than not though I usually buy a coin already certified making this question a moot point.

 

I get five early bird submissions through NGC's Collector's Society. This year I'm really going to have to work at it to get those five coins together. Anymore, instead of buying moderns through the US Mint, I almost always wait until someone else gets them certified and buy the coin from them. I think some dealers get negotiated rates on their bulk submissions. If I do submit coins, I usually wait until there is a major show in the area I live. There I submit the coins directly to NGC. That way I save the cost of registered postage down to Florida which can be pretty pricey.

Gary

[Raisethis2]

I like to gamble. As such I'll look over my coins and if after some consideration I can justify spending $20 more to verify the grade I think it is, I'll ship.

 

I think it's a great way to hone my grading skills and every once in a while you hit the jackpot.

 

Selling untampered coins in slabs is significantly easier too.

[e1cnr]

I would not send a coin in if I didn't think it was worth over $80, because it's $22-$25 a coin at PCGS or NGC.

What do you all think?

 

I think many get submitted for registry sets and sale.

[World Colonial]

I don't think the value of the coin is as important as the added value from grading.

 

The key is whether (and by how much) the added value is greater than the grading and postage fees.

 

If a group of $10 coins can be transformed into a group of $50 coins, through grading, they might be worth submitting. On the other hand, a $1000 coin that will be come a $1050 coin might not be worth getting graded.

 

I have bought many coins in the $10 range that I submitted for the reason you gave.

[asdfgh]

If you are trying to fill slots in registry sets you will most likely send the coin in to be graded. For instance if you check online and see that the coin is going for 40 and you have a raw coin that cost you

3, it is better to take a shot at getting a higher or equal grade by sending in your coin.

[jpcienkus]

All great responses and as you can see from the variety there are a lot of variables that go into making the decision.

 

I think another variable is what you plan to do with the coin. Also, whether you like having your coins somewhat protected in the TPG holder. Sometimes, money is not the motivating factor behind getting it holdered.

[Captain Clipon]

I sent in a 1955-S Lincoln that came back MS64RB. Not worth much for resale, but my father gave it to me about 30 years ago and I wanted to keep it preserved. Sentimental consideration. That coin is the only reason I collect coins now.

[Curry]

I would say grade coins that be worth a few hundred or coins that are toners or coins that are special to you. Or a coin that is maybe not been discovered yet that you have found that may be a new variety. Just one of those situations and you can justify getting them graded.

[TonerGuy]

I don't think the value of the coin is as important as the added value from grading.

 

The key is whether (and by how much) the added value is greater than the grading and postage fees.

 

If a group of $10 coins can be transformed into a group of $50 coins, through grading, they might be worth submitting. On the other hand, a $1000 coin that will be come a $1050 coin might not be worth getting graded.

 

+1

 

Some toners I send in dont grade that high because I value color over grade. (Of course you want both but thats not always possible) However, a raw toner is worth substantially less than a graded toner.

 

Usually getting toners graded is unfortunately a necessity in this market. On the bright side that also means if you know how to pick raw NT coins you can make money.

[Mozin]

When I used to buy raw coins, and that is a very long time ago, coins worth less than $200, I sent to ANACS. Anything over $200 value was sent to either PCGS or NGC.

 

Coins worth less than $100 never were submitted. These days, with the price for grading much higher, I would likely not submit coins worth less than $175.

[AHFreak]

I would not send a coin in if I didn't think it was worth over $80, because it's $22-$25 a coin at PCGS or NGC.

What do you all think?

 

I want to point out that there are many times when grading fees are significantly lower than $22-$25 per coin. Both NGC and PCGS offer bulk rates. For many of the dealers who submit large amounts of coins, they are paying as low as $6 per coin, maybe $8 in some cases. With bulk you also have the benefit of stating a "minimum grade", so in many cases, you can have them only certify the coins that "make financial sense" to certify.

 

To add to the point Mark made, if you are into some raw coins for under $10 a piece, and you can have them certified for 6-8 bucks ea.. and the product is a bunch of coins that are now valued at $50 per....

 

Just another side of what someone might be thinking about what is worth grading, and what isn't.

 

 

[RWB]

If they are submitted for authentication, then "value" doesn't matter.

If they are submitted for financial gain, then you have to consider total expenses against your estimate of net revenue and your assumed profit.

 

This means there is no "minimum value" especially given the demand for pocket change in slabs for competitive sets of some sort.

[Walkerfan]

I'd start at around $500---assuming there is significant added value, as Mark stated.

[PennyGuy]

A lot of good responses on this question. Here is my reason, been working on this grade set for a while....

 

[Curry]

Very cool set PennyGuy!

[dadams]

PennyGuy -- Nice Set ! (thumbs u

[PennyGuy]

Thanks guys, someday it will turn into an Exhibit at my state numismatic society conference.