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How long do you wait for the right coin?

20 posts in this topic

If you are a registry collector and you are searching for a particular coin in a certain grade, how long does it normally take?

 

I recently started an inexpensive set (sort of) so I continue to look while I bleed out cash for other life events. What I have found is that while the coins I am looking for are relatively common and inexpensive, sellers have rediculous expectations.

 

For example. I was looking at a coin that has a PCGS pop of 193 in the grade I am looking for. The PCGS price guide lists it at $95 and the most recent sales are $22 and $35, both within 30 days. I can find 8 examples for sale but the price ranges are from $75-$360. How long do wait to get it a price you feel is reasonable before you give in and pay the sellers price?

 

I find that if I wait more than a couple months I start to lose interest.

 

This is a modern proof coin so generally speaking there isn't any difference in eye appeal.

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I would say look for one in an NGC holder, but the population in NGC is not high (only 62 coins in PF70UC) and the asking prices seem to be equally inflated. I would create an eBay search for the coin, and wait for one to appear in an $0.99 starting price auction format.

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Sometimes, it can take years and other times we get lucky sooner.

 

agreed

 

 

i think the fun is in the hunt once you get the coin it is not as fun

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Sometimes, it can take years and other times we get lucky sooner.

 

agreed

 

 

i think the fun is in the hunt once you get the coin it is not as fun

 

I, myself, love getting the coin. It is a huge rush and accomplishment that I never get bored with.

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I have been waiting for 3 years for the right chain cent. Rushing in will only lead to mistakes and regret in the future. I've also been looking for a 1792 Half Disme for a few years but refuse to settle when spending that much on any coin.

 

Patience is absolutely necessary in this and in any hobby. Unless you collect R7 varieties, you should wait for the right coin. And you will be glad that you did.

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We know how "entitled" you might feel TDN, but us 'po folk have to think "more about the right price" than you do.

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We know how "entitled" you might feel TDN, but us 'po folk have to think "more about the right price" than you do.

 

You never fail to show how much of an you are

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Is there really any difference in one PF70 to another? Waiting for the right price is correct, which is why I started the thread about Registry collecting? For the registry the coin doesn't matter...only the slab.

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Of course there is a difference between two coins at the same grade. If you can't appreciate the differences, then I do suggest collecting one step lower where you will save a lot of money and the coins will look the same to you.

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We know how "entitled" you might feel TDN, but us 'po folk have to think "more about the right price" than you do.

 

You never fail to show how much of an you are

 

+1

 

Like TDN or dislike him, it really doesn't matter. But, rag on him only when that precise situation warrants.

 

Incessant whining about a past perceived grievance is the stuff of losers.

 

EVP

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If you are a registry collector and you are searching for a particular coin in a certain grade, how long does it normally take?

 

I recently started an inexpensive set (sort of) so I continue to look while I bleed out cash for other life events. What I have found is that while the coins I am looking for are relatively common and inexpensive, sellers have rediculous expectations.

 

For example. I was looking at a coin that has a PCGS pop of 193 in the grade I am looking for. The PCGS price guide lists it at $95 and the most recent sales are $22 and $35, both within 30 days. I can find 8 examples for sale but the price ranges are from $75-$360. How long do wait to get it a price you feel is reasonable before you give in and pay the sellers price?

 

I find that if I wait more than a couple months I start to lose interest.

 

This is a modern proof coin so generally speaking there isn't any difference in eye appeal.

If all you're doing is collecting numbers on plastic, buy the cheapest one. That shouldn't take that long.

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If you are a registry collector and you are searching for a particular coin in a certain grade, how long does it normally take?

 

I recently started an inexpensive set (sort of) so I continue to look while I bleed out cash for other life events. What I have found is that while the coins I am looking for are relatively common and inexpensive, sellers have rediculous expectations.

 

For example. I was looking at a coin that has a PCGS pop of 193 in the grade I am looking for. The PCGS price guide lists it at $95 and the most recent sales are $22 and $35, both within 30 days. I can find 8 examples for sale but the price ranges are from $75-$360. How long do wait to get it a price you feel is reasonable before you give in and pay the sellers price?

 

I find that if I wait more than a couple months I start to lose interest.

 

This is a modern proof coin so generally speaking there isn't any difference in eye appeal.

 

The thing about modern Proof coins in slabs is that many of them are not worth the slabbing fee in the current market unless they are graded PR-70 Ultra Cam. Therefore the population numbers are low, not because the coins are hard to find, but because few of them are sent in for grading.

 

There is a dealer in my area who sends in a lot of Proof coins for grading. I presume that he sells the PR-70 coins, especially the PCGS graded pieces, for big bucks. He sells the pieces that flunk and end up in PR-69 holders for $10 to $25 each. None of these pieces are good buys because his buy back price is $5 each, but if you want to fill registry holes, this is the cheapest way to do it from what I have seen. If you are looking for PCGS graded coins you will pay more, and you will have more competition.

 

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Of course there is a difference between two coins at the same grade. If you can't appreciate the differences, then I do suggest collecting one step lower where you will save a lot of money and the coins will look the same to you.

 

No offense but I didn't say two coins of the same grade. What I said was two PF70s of modern mintage. You are refusing to see the point I am trying to make. The only way you would be able to see a difference is with a microscope.

 

Just for the record I don't pay the asking price when I buy a new car either...

 

 

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