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1921 Peace Dollar Dark Toned

15 posts in this topic

This is a clumsy, amateurish attempt at artificial toning. The coin is now ruined and worth little more than its melt value.

 

I think that the coin is genuine, but there is a small chance that it is something the Chinese cooked up to cover their counterfeiting tracks.

 

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This is a clumsy, amateurish attempt at artificial toning. The coin is now ruined and worth little more than its melt value.

 

I think that the coin is genuine, but there is a small chance that it is something the Chinese cooked up to cover their counterfeiting tracks.

 

Considering that even in VG condition, a 1921 Peace dollar bids at $100, I believe that the "and worth little more than its melt value" comment is overdone.

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I'm somewhat with Bill. This is either a bad counterfeit, or it has some severe environmental damage to it. I don't really think it's even gradable except as "possibly Authentic".

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I'm somewhat with Bill. This is either a bad counterfeit, or it has some severe environmental damage to it. I don't really think it's even gradable except as "possibly Authentic".

 

It looks genuine, but AT, and neither counterfeit, nor environmentally damaged. And, while it's not worth getting graded, it has value, even as is.

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The Chinese are doing some unusual things of their counterfeit dollars struck in steel these days. They don't bother with the Mint State market or even the better date market, but go straight to the common date circulated dollar / flea market arena where they have a better chance of fooling less experienced buyers.

 

As I said this coin is probably genuine, but since I can't see it in person, I'm saying that I'm 99% sure that it is real. As for the value with circulated dollars carrying a bid of $30 each on the Gray Sheet, I can't see a collector paying a big numismatic premium for this when he can buy a 1921 Peace dollar in VG for $100. When I look at the photo, the surfaces look porous to me, which is something that goes beyond a bad AT job. Porous silver is far less desirable than porous early copper.

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Say I appreciate the candid comments. I was very interested to hear what some of you with expertise had to say. I will say I am open to the possibility that this coing had AT. Now last year I had some Morgans I posted and many said they had AT and I was able to argue on that issue because I knew the history on the coins. They did grade genuine no AT by NGC which I knew that they would. Now this one I do not know for sure on the history. I think it is a genuine coin but I guess it could be counterfeit. If I weigh it can I tell? Say it was in a lot with two 1928 P- one was darker toned but not this dark. That 28 P is presently sent in for grading and we will see what the grader gods think. The other 28 P has no toning a looks decent enough. I will try and scan it tonight and post it for your inspection. I hate to think they were counterfeits but I guess that is a possibility- my level of expertise I could be fooled. These are from a eBay auction a while back- the feedback looked good and they didn't seem to be a coin dealer per se but I am learning there are some real cons out there. Again I appreciate the frank comments. I will see what the gods have to say on the 28 P and may follow up with have this one and the other 28 P graded just to see what I can learn. Thanks.

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I still bet it would fetch $50, at least.

 

$50 sounds fair on a retail basis, but what whould you get such an item if you tried to sell it to a dealer? At $50 I would view this item as a "hole filler."

 

If I were a dealer who was asked to buy this piece, I'd start out with the melt value and would add a nominal amount for the fact that it is a 1921 Peace dollar. Beyond that I would not be very interested in buying this piece because it is a problem coin that is not easy to sell. It's the kind of thing that can hang in a dealer's inventory for a long time unless the price is cheap. And cheap is not that much over the melt value.

 

I post this simply to remind collectors that when you buy an item, you need to consider the selling possibilities as well if you are concerned about the money you put in your collection. If it's all for fun, and the finances don't matter to you, then you don't need to be concerned if a piece is a hard to sell item.

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Hello people- Say I did get the one 28 P from the same lot (which was similarly but lighter toned as this 21) back from the graders (not the scratched one)- It was graded AU Improperly Cleaned- so at least it did not come back as counterfeit or AT- (This is not the scratched 28 P I also posted.)

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