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WTB NGC Mercs.

Started by Lifetime Noob,

36 posts in this topic

Lifetime Noob

Lifetime Noob

Posted
Posted

I have decided to assemble, what I hope to be, a fairly decent group of Mercs.

 

Please keep in mind that I am a 'new' collector and do not operate on an unlimited budget (that is what a 20 year career in the Army will get for you.) :roflmao:

 

Thank you in advance!

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mtnstyne

mtnstyne

Posted
Posted
I have decided to assemble, what I hope to be, a fairly decent group of Mercs.

 

Please keep in mind that I am a 'new' collector and do not operate on an unlimited budget (that is what a 20 year career in the Army will get for you.) :roflmao:

 

Thank you in advance!

 

And bad knees...

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Lifetime Noob

Lifetime Noob

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Great Question! I should have thought of that myself! doh!

 

Perhaps a good place to start would be with MS Mercury's between the years of 1930 to 1945: Lower MS grades with FB and higher MS grades without the FB.

 

I guess that would get me started and allow me to quickly fill some 'holes' in the registry. Then I could do the same thing from 1916 to 1929.

 

Once that is complete, after I do more studying on the series, I can try to 'improve' the set to higher quality examples.

 

Does that make sense or is my thought pattern in the wrong direction?

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noow

noow

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I think it may not be necessary to have lower FB grades and higher MS-only grades; whatever you like, buy. Improving on a set is a good way to go (thumbs u

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Paul Kiraly 3

Paul Kiraly 3

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I wil give you my advice. i know you want lower grade mercs, an upgrade as time moves on. You do have take in consideration, as time moves on ,the price for lower grade mercs drops heavy. i will tell you to take your time and build a nice set of 66FB or better. when you upgrade from there, you will have no problem selling them. I would hate to see anyone lose money on their investment.

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Lifetime Noob

Lifetime Noob

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I wil give you my advice. i know you want lower grade mercs, an upgrade as time moves on. You do have take in consideration, as time moves on ,the price for lower grade mercs drops heavy. i will tell you to take your time and build a nice set of 66FB or better. when you upgrade from there, you will have no problem selling them. I would hate to see anyone lose money on their investment.

 

Why do lower grade FB Mercs loose their value over time? Is it because more and more are certified, diluting the population and driving the value/prices down?

 

So what you are saying is to follow my strategy, but to 'aim' for MS66FB coins because as I improve the collection, their resale value will hold (or possibly improve?) That makes good sense... thoughts anyone?

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lehigh96

lehigh96

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I wil give you my advice. i know you want lower grade mercs, an upgrade as time moves on. You do have take in consideration, as time moves on ,the price for lower grade mercs drops heavy. i will tell you to take your time and build a nice set of 66FB or better. when you upgrade from there, you will have no problem selling them. I would hate to see anyone lose money on their investment.

 

Why do lower grade FB Mercs loose their value over time? Is it because more and more are certified, diluting the population and driving the value/prices down?

 

So what you are saying is to follow my strategy, but to 'aim' for MS66FB coins because as I improve the collection, their resale value will hold (or possibly improve?) That makes good sense... thoughts anyone?

 

I built a short set of FB Mercury Dimes about 10 years ago. My first piece of advice is to draw your line where the registry does, from 1934-1945. The coins from 1930 & 1931 can be very expensive.

 

My second piece of advice is to buy FB examples whenever you can. When it comes time to sell your coins, you will thank me. This holds especially true for issues that are not much more expensive in FB. This is what Paul was talking about as well. For the majority of the coins in the 1940's, you will find that the prices of an MS67 are comparable to an MS66 FB. In these scenarios, always seek out the FB examples as they are much easier to sell. In addition, it will make your overall set appear more balanced and matched since you will be filling the expensive slots with coins in the lower MS grades.

 

The only real stoppers (monetarily) in the set in full bands are the 1934-D, 1935-D, 1935-S, 1939-S, and the 1945-P. Most of the others are reasonably priced in gem state and many are affordable in premium gem. If you are going to buy a coin without FB, my advice is to seek out a coin that is superlative in some other way. Whether it be attractive toning or incredible luster, the coin should have something that draws the focus away from the fact that it is not full bands. Of course, you could always strive for all three qualities.

 

MD1940-DNGCMS66FB.jpg

 

My last piece of advice is to buy and read David Lange's book, THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO MERCURY DIMES. It is an invaluable resource to every Mercury Dime collector.

 

I have sold most of my Mercury Dime collection. The only thing I have to offer to get you started is this 1936 PCGS MS65 FB CAC Gold: $75

 

MercuryDime1936PCGSMS65FBGoldCAC.jpg

 

Good Luck,

 

Paul

 

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CarlWohlforth

CarlWohlforth

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I have a '38 and '42-S in NGC MS 67 FB

 

also a nicely toned 1917-S in NGC MS 65

 

PM if interested. You get first dibs. Anybody else is welcome to inquire as well.

 

Have fun collecting one of my favorite designs!

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SPeck95512

SPeck95512

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That '36 is a heck of a deal. If I were you, Deepstrike, I'd take these guys up on their offers if you can afford it.

 

I told you to bring your issues to the boards and they would respond and here they're helping you build your collection.

 

SP

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Lifetime Noob

Lifetime Noob

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Sorry for the delay folks, we had to go to a corporate Christmas party last night for my wife and this morning we are on our way to church. I will get with everyone this afternoon beginning around 1400, OK. Thank you all for the various offers! (thumbs u

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Lifetime Noob

Lifetime Noob

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Lehigh's got a really nice deal for you there DeepStrike!

 

Are you referring to the 1936 or the 1940-D? If the 36, what is the difference between the green and gold CAC sticker?

 

I am not debating anyones prices by any means, just trying to learn. NGC has that coin at $68.75. Is that the bid or ask price or only the price recently realized at auction?

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Schatzy

Schatzy

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The gold color of the CAC sticker is simply the way the light shined through the hologram when it was photographed. They're all green.

 

The above statement is totally incorrect.

Lehigh's coin does have a gold sticker.

 

 

More Information on the cac stickers.

CAC uses 2 stickers a green one and a gold one. The green sticker is for "A" and "B" coins. What that means is; within each grade there are A coins, B coins, and C coins. A coins are good for the grade (not under graded, but on the high end of the grade), B coins are solid for the grade (not high or low), and C coins are on the low end of the grade (not that they're necessarily over graded, just a lower example of that particular grade). With the green sticker you can't tell whether CAC felt the coin was a A or B coin, but you know it's at least solid for the grade (According to CAC). The gold CAC sticker is for coins that CAC feels are under graded, and should easily upgrade. You don't see too many gold stickers.

 

 

 

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lehigh96

lehigh96

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The gold color of the CAC sticker is simply the way the light shined through the hologram when it was photographed. They're all green.

 

That is not correct. There are green stickers which meet standards for the assigned grade and gold stickers which exceed standards for the assigned grade.

 

Screenshot2011-02-22at70317PM.png

 

and a gold sticker:

 

Screenshot2011-02-22at110716PM.png

 

The screen shot of the gold sticker above is actually the Mercury Dime shown in this thread, check the serial number. If you want to look it up yourself, please use the link below.

 

CAC Verification Screen

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noow

noow

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Lehigh's got a really nice deal for you there DeepStrike!

 

Are you referring to the 1936 or the 1940-D? If the 36, what is the difference between the green and gold CAC sticker?

 

I am not debating anyones prices by any means, just trying to learn. NGC has that coin at $68.75. Is that the bid or ask price or only the price recently realized at auction?

The gold sticker.

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