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3- Morgan CC's - are they to worn for NGS to cert./grade?

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After studying sells and buying’s, I noticed that slab coins bring more money at sales than raw coins. I figured all cost and profit and this seems a good idea when silver goes back up. It’s all about trust or the illusion of it at least that allows for a good sale for all involved.

 

Thanks for the reply

Dandy

It is possible to be a collector and an investor

 

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After studying sells and buying’s, I noticed that slab coins bring more money at sales than raw coins. I figured all cost and profit and this seems a good idea when silver goes back up. It’s all about trust or the illusion of it at least that allows for a good sale for all involved.

 

 

None of the coins are worth more than 100.00. Certainly not worth investing additional money on grading fees.

 

People that collect morgans of that grade will buy raw anyway.

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After studying sells and buying’s, I noticed that slab coins bring more money at sales than raw coins.

That is far from accurate. Some coins are likely to bring more money if certified, but for the ones shown, such is not the case. Wasting your money on grading fees for these is almost certainly going to be a losing proposition. The increase in cost to you (of grading fees) deducts from your profit potential.

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Wow! Very illuminating, after further reading/thinking I realized (insert light bulb here) I needed to apply some common since. Just because I’ve seen similar coins in slabs, doesn’t mean it’s always the best idea. There seems to be no hard-n-fast rule about at what grade, interest level or rarity scale, one should have a coin graded.

This leads me to another question:

unless a coin is special mint, keydate or some other special reason it should probably not be sent to be graded, unless the coin is at least a: ms-58-60, with a interest level or rarity scale of say a 4.

 

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you need a reason to pay for certification

 

 

very rare coin, big jumps between close MS grades, rare variety or VAM,...

 

 

although many people also use it to check their raw grading and buying skills-

if you buy lots of raw, you need to know if you are buying problem coins

 

your lower right looks like it could be a problem coin ( guessing from photo )

- cleaned reverse, corrosion on obverse

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Wow! Very illuminating, after further reading/thinking I realized (insert light bulb here) I needed to apply some common since. Just because I’ve seen similar coins in slabs, doesn’t mean it’s always the best idea. There seems to be no hard-n-fast rule about at what grade, interest level or rarity scale, one should have a coin graded.

There are far more coins certified that should NOT be, than there are coins that are needing to get certified. Far too many collectors immediately jump the gun, eager to see their precious coins in plastic.

 

A safe threshold is $400. A coin valued below about that amount usually does not need certification, unless it is a gold coin (authenticity), or the value is wholly grade dependent. That usually means ultra-moderns (i.e. "pop tops"), or keys, where again, authenticity is an issue.

 

This leads me to another question:

unless a coin is special mint, keydate or some other special reason it should probably not be sent to be graded, unless the coin is at least a: ms-58-60, with a interest level or rarity scale of say a 4.

Strangely, the higher the interest level, the LESS certification is desired. Take early copper, for example. The commercial venue is much more important than whether a coin is certified or not. But that's because early copper has a very high interest level, and there are thousands of avid collectors who study the series, and don't need the crutch of certification. Your circulated Morgan dollars are another area where again, there are thousands of collectors who can grade very competently, and do not need a slab to tell them whether the coin is Fine or AU.

 

I would MUCH rather pay just $100 for a coin, than $135 for a coin + slab.

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If you were to send them in for grading, the 1891-CC on the lower right would not grade because it has environmental damage on the obverse. The 1891-CC at the top and the 1882-CC would be marginal (might or might not) for grading because of edge damage. I agree with the others that these coins do not need to be certified.

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