Camera

[jom]

The images I shared on this thread were taken with the end of the lens only a few inches, at most, away from the coins and I was using a 105mm lens.

 

So you have a dSLR? If not, and you are using a point and shoot then what type fits a 105mm?

 

I have a Nikon CP950 and it seems to me I'm only an inch or so away but still can't get the lighting in there to do it right. What am I missing here? I just seem to me I need a lot more space than an inch or so.

 

jom

[TomB]

I have a Nikon D70, which is a DSLR.

[Buffalo Head]

 

 

OK, but who makes that copy stand?

 

jom

 

This is a Polaroid MP-4...Kinda large, I picked this up at yard sale down the street, talk about lucky, eh...It's 43 inches tall from the table built in lights with switches. Work like a dream...Used in a court house....

[jom]

I have a Nikon D70, which is a DSLR.

 

Thanks for that. I'm looking into a D40x (more pixels I guess) at the moment. I'm just not sure what lens to get OR how much it will be for the lens. Why do I get the feeling I'm gonna bury myself with this stuff...I'd rather buy coins.

 

This is a Polaroid MP-4...Kinda large, I picked this up at yard sale down the street, talk about lucky, eh...It's 43 inches tall from the table built in lights with switches. Work like a dream...Used in a court house....

 

Thanks. I've looked up a few around the net. B&H have a couple below $150 and there are a couple at $50 but only 12" high.

 

Presently, I have to try this (relatively) cheap add-on I got for my CP 950 (I had to get some step-up rings). Maybe this can work with the equipment I have and I won't have to blow any more dough towards this "endeavor".

 

jom

[TomB]

A copystand or tripod is great, but without a proper lens I think you are dead in the water for really fine numismatic photography. I purchased my D70 back in 2005 and it cost something like $600 new and came with the standard lens. I had been taking quality film photography for over two decades by that time and always used a 100mm lens with my old Canon so at the time of purchase for the D70 I also purchased a 60mm lens for another $500 or thereabouts. I have used the 60mm lens exclusively since that time on my camera except when I replace it with the 105mm lens for numismatic images. The 105mm lens will cost around $900. The 60mm lens has been used for over 10,000 digital images with the D70 since purchase and I imagine I will continue to use it for a few more decades. The 60mm lens will also take excellent shots of coins, but I must admit the 105mm lens is better suited for the purpose.

[jom]

Let's see if I understand this. When you say 105mm (or 60mm) does this mean the length between the lens of the camera and the coin TO BE IN FOCUS? Given that 105mm is about 4 in. is that really enough room to get light in there without being block by the camera? 60mm is even less. Therefore, what advantage do I have here going with these expensive lenses?

 

Then again you have 20 years experience and I have about 20 min. heh

 

jom

[TomB]

In theory, I would imagine that the 105mm lens would mean it is 105mm long from the outer lens to where the image is captured, but with internal zoom features of modern lenses this need not be the case. My 105mm lens is a fixed length lens and indeed measures approximately 105mm in length; I just measured the lens for you. A more comprehensive definition, and no doubt more correct, can be found on various websites including here.

[jom]

Thanks you sir!

 

jom

[messydesk]

Don't confuse a lens' focal length (the 60mm and 105mm numbers referred to earlier) with the diameter of the filter threads (28mm on the Coolpix 950), as they have nothing to do with each other.

 

The close-up lens on the front of the Coolpix, or any other camera, will allow the camera to focus closer to the coin when using the maximum optical zoom than you can without it. I don't know the exact specs for the Coolpix 950, but many P&S cameras only allow the macro mode to work well when the camera's lens is at it's shortest focal length setting (most wide angle). The short focal length also means very short working distance to get decent magnification, and the short working distance means poor lighting more often than not. Adding a +2 diopter close-up lens alters the optics so that you can focus fairly close at the longer focal lengths of the lens, which will give you decent magnification and good working distance. You can use one of these on any camera that accepts threaded filters on the front of the lens or accessory filter adapter. Not all cameras have this, especially the most inexpensive ones.

 

I use a 105mm lens on my Nikon D80 for almost everything. When I'm shooting silver dollars, the front of the lens something like 16" from the coin, which gives me plenty of room for lights. The focal length has little to do with the physical size of the lens. What it means is the distance from the lens' focal point (technically the rear focal point), which may be inside or outside the lens itself, to the image plane in order to produce a focused picture of a scene "at infinity" (think mountains a mile or two away). If that distance is doubled, then the focused object on the image plane will be life-sized on the image plane and will be at a distance of twice the lens' focal length from the lens' (front) focal point.

 

If you don't want to invest in a copy stand or spend the time to find an inexpensive used one, a point and shoot camera will work fine on an inexpensive WalMart tripod ($30). Extend one leg longer than the other two so you can lean it against a table. Use the 2 second self-timer to make sure the camera shake dampens before the picture is taken. If the tripod seems to light, hang some ballast on the hook on the bottom of the center mast to increase stability.

[Buffalo Head]

I have a few lenses, but let me tell ya....The Sigma 150mm is the best for shooting coins....Hands down...That's the big fat boy hanging from my camera.

[TomB]

John (messydesk) gave you a more accurate and thorough definition than my quick and dirty one. I don't back off of coins as much and the farthest I go from a coin the size of a Morgan dollar is about 12 inches.

[huey-migration]

Let's see if I understand this. When you say 105mm (or 60mm) does this mean the length between the lens of the camera and the coin TO BE IN FOCUS? Given that 105mm is about 4 in. is that really enough room to get light in there without being block by the camera? 60mm is even less. Therefore, what advantage do I have here going with these expensive lenses?

 

Then again you have 20 years experience and I have about 20 min. heh

 

jom

 

jom, I don't think everybody is listening to the same question...and I'm no bigtime photographer, but...

 

the size/power of different lenses is often referred to in mm. The common eye sees things at about 50mm. For example, that means a 100mm lens is giving you about 2X the power, a 200mm lens gives you about 4X the power. This is very basic, learn it.

 

Then you have references to focal length, also given in mm, sometimes.

 

In America, you may also see distances often referred to in inches in our photo literature.

 

Be careful what people are answering you about. Size/power of a lens, or simply just an outright measurement of distance, i.e. camera lens-to-subject.

 

The question you asked, but weren't answered, was just about lens power or strength it seemed. Carefully weigh all answers you're given online. Make sure someone comprehends your questions.

 

Also, in a quick run through this thread, I see several references to having to have a macro mode if you're going to use a point-and-shoot. Yes, that can be used, the more experience the better, 'cause focusing can be tough in macro mode with these little cameras.

 

A big assist can be had from using a simple p&s camera that has the ability to shoot manually. You know, turn a dial to M, A, or S, for Manual, Aperture, or Shutter. Those give you the ability to go to Aperture Priority mode and tell the camera and lens what f/stop to shoot at. That's a numeric indication of how much light is getting through the shutter once the shutter release is tripped. You control the lens opening with your f/stop setting AND the type and strength of light with your lamps and lighting setup. If you're shooting high speed races, you might want to go to S and set your Shutter Priority to 1000th of second exposure to "freeze" the action. This ability to shoot "freehand" in different priorities is virtually critical to producing good pics, manually. Picturing how the shot will look using different settings takes some doing and thinking ahead.

 

Hang in there, your 20 minutes of camera experience will quickly increase!

 

[jom]

Thanks for all of the responses.

 

I received my add-on lens the other day but only got the step up rings today. (28mm to both 52mm and 37mm). The add-on is 52mm diameter thread so I can give it a try. Hopefully I can gain an inch or two to help my lighting.

 

Ultimately, I think the price of a dSLR camera (along with the equally expensive macro lens) will be out of my price range. I might look into a newer point and shoot (another CP?) with more pixels but it will need to have threads so I can add extensions..

 

We'll see how it goes....

 

jom

[fishfinder]

Jom,

 

Get ya a used rebel and the 100mm fixed macro, hook er to your PC for the same price as a high end compact.