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GSA Morgan Coin Holder Problem

29 posts in this topic

I am a GSA CC collector. Purchased a 78 knowing the holder was a mess. A previous owner had layered the front with laquer. Almost as thick as the rim. Could not see the coin inside (basically sight unseen purchase). I have tried numerous things to remove realizing if I go too far, I will get to the plastic. Nothing would dissolve this stuff except OOOps laquer remover. I have removed enough to see she is a beauty. I have removed more right in the coin area and you can see a depression (bowl) where the coin is. This stuff was thick! However, I have stopped before reaching the plastic. Within several days, the laquer starts turning white and spreads across the front over time. Within 3 days, the holder front is snow white in some but not all areas. I assume this is laquer as paint thinner or varnish remover did not dissolve anything. I reapply some ooops and it clears for a day and then back to a hazy white (slow migration always starting in the same spots). I really want to get all of the stuff off but is that even possible. I will not break this out as I really appreciate the GSA coins. I find using this solvent will craze the plastic (tested small area on back) so I need some options to try. Thanx for any tricks of the trade someone can provide.

 

Chet

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I can respect your love of the old original GSA holder but I think you are treading on thin ice here. Your main concerns should be for preserving the coin and not the holder and with all of the chemicals being used or already used on this holder the coin is at serious risk of coming into contacting with the chemical outgassing etc. No holder is air tight so the chemicals applied will eventually have an affect on the coin....but to what degree is a mystery.

 

Ultimately you want to see the coin I assume? Otherwise what enjoyment will you get assuming what the coin will look like? I would crack the coin out and put it into a more stable holder...or send it in to one of the TPGs have them crack it out and holder it with the gsa designation....good luck!

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Was purchased at a big discount since the coin was not even viewable. Just trying to keep her in the GSA holder. Was fortunate to find her in great condition.

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Shane

Thanks for your comments. I did not think about chemicals reaching the coin. And yes, the coin is the main concern but I do appreciate those GSA's.

Chet

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I'm gonna have to agree with Krypto. You should send it in to NGC or PCGS and have them crack / slab the coin with the GSA designation so you can have many more years of appreciation.

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So,there's no way of getting a replacement GSA slab? i know it won't be original but... I have an 82CC DMPL but the back of the slab has a nasty scratch right over about a third of the coin.

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Perhaps there's some plastic shop in your area that can polish the GSA......It is possible.

Well, I shouldn't say without seeing the slab......Did I mention this thread is useless without pictures ? (Hang around here long enough and you'll get a lot of those).....

 

Try a plastic place.....we have 'Great Lakes Plastic' here in Buffalo and I know they'd give it a heck of a shot......

 

Paul

 

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i would call this an exeption and have pcgs or ngc crack it out to keep the GSA on slab. it may not be the original case :( but it will be the original coin.

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Welcome to the forum Chet. :hi:

 

Sounds like the holder is for most part ruined and the coin should be cracked out of it. Maybe you can find a Gsa holder without the coin. Remember collect the coin not the plastic. In this case protect the coin not the plastic. (thumbs u

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What a suprise to have all of you responding to my delima! I am old school and have never been in a chat room until now. I know she would grade better out of the case (film layers slightly reflective to the field area) but would accept that if I could keep her as is. Without the white haze, she looks good. Realize for most, it's not a big deal to crack out but for some reason, it is to me. You all are correct when saying it's the coin, not the holder. Somehow, I dosen't make it easier. I appreciate any and all comments.

Chet

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What a suprise to have all of you responding to my delima! I am old school and have never been in a chat room until now. I know she would grade better out of the case (film layers slightly reflective to the field area) but would accept that if I could keep her as is. Without the white haze, she looks good. Realize for most, it's not a big deal to crack out but for some reason, it is to me. You all are correct when saying it's the coin, not the holder. Somehow, I dosen't make it easier. I appreciate any and all comments.

Chet

 

I know what you mean. Mine is already graded by NGC in the slab ,but the scratch on the plastic bugs me. I would probably ,if I could find one, break the NGC seal and replace the holder.But I never tried to open one.Do they crack when you open them? Then I'd think about regrading. Don't mean to horn in on your thread.Here's a picture.Would any of those scratch repair kits work on this? The scratch really messes up the view of the upper third of the coin.

 

82CCscratch.jpg

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I've used Maguire's scratch remover for plastic. Fair results as scratches are deep. I did improve the appearance of the coin through the plastic. I have buddies who swear by Slab Renew. I have NO experience with laquer. I do have a great desire for you to leave any nice coin in the original GSA holder. A CC dollar just don't have a pedigree out of the original holder. They are all I collect. My advice would be ask a plastic's expert like mentioned earlier. Maybe a old painter might have a few tricks? A antique furniture restorer? Keep on trying and keep her in the GSA holder. Be patient some things take time. JM2 cents~Peace, Tim

76578.jpg.7f361d98af4a9208ca764df270ab1a00.jpg

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I doubt the lacquered slab can be helped short of rmoving al the lacquer and that will probably damage the plastic, possible badly enough that it could not be polished back to clarity. If you do want to try cracking a GSA case to swap it into you could try practicing opening Brown Ikes. It's the same type holder.

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Personally, I would find a replacement GSA plastic holder, and not slab it. I've seen folks selling empty shells, ones that have been carefully separated and could be glued back together. That's just me, though. I have no interest whatsoever in certified ex-GSA coins in slabs, because if I'm going to pay a premium for GSA, I want the darned holder, box and certificate!

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Here are some pictures of the slab that were sent to me by the OP....the GSA slab wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be as I thought it was completely chalk white but actually you can see the coin through the haze so the cleaning up may actually be a permanent solution :wishluck:

 

 

Original condition

 

CCmorgan.jpg

 

After some cleaning

 

CCmorgan2.jpg

 

After the final cleaning sanding and polishing....

 

CCmorgan3.jpg

 

 

 

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Very nice job Shane. Excellent work!!! :applause:

 

 

I just posted the pictures he sent but if you want to give me kudos :acclaim:

 

The OP acutally cleaned up the slab and it looks like all his hard work paid off ^^

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Wow, what a chat board. Who would have thought so many would look and respond. Thanks to Krypto for posting the photos. I am just not very good with all the functions of computers (like posting photo's). I had several ask how this was accomplished. Here is the scoop.

 

After reading all the comments, I knew it was time to take the project to the limit. Either solve the problem or break her out. The case was toxic and turning white right before my eyes. The laquer thinner was working underneath the top surface. I would rub the laquer thinner around but never really took much off. The second photo was the time I wrote and ask for your comments. She was toxic and we were running out of time. Knowing this was a furniture finish, decided to go back to the basics (wood working 101). Started the final attempt using fine grit sand paper removing one layer at a time. Then fine steel wool. The back to sand paper and so on. Although I could remove all of the white, reactions were still happening underneath. The white returned first within a day, then later within hours. I noticed each time I removed a layer, less white showed up. I also noticed slightly darker areas under the sanding and that is where white would reappear. Knew I needed to get below theose areas. Just kept sanding. Keep in mind, the front was full of laquer topping off at the top of the edges. Steel wool made the deep sanding look much better but very dull. Pulling that sand paper across her face was tough!! Used the steel wool often to remove the deep scratches made by the paper. I never made it to the plastic cover.

 

Waited several days and watched. If white appeared, sanded again. Finally, the reactions stopped. Now how to pull out the shine. I did not want to use more liquid since it might seep into lower layers of the laquer which still remained .Went and purchased the basic Turtle car wax paste. Dull gray front turned to clear immediately. Several coats of wax and here we are. I continue to monitor her to make sure the reactions have stopped. Its been almost a week and she is stable. In all, about 15+ man hours and well worth it.... That's my story and I am sticking to it. Thanks to Krypto for the posting and for all of your interest.

 

Chet

 

 

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First time to post photo's Have posted 3 in file manager but they do not appear on the screen. Guess I will find out if they can be viewed. If not, someone let me know how to? They were downsized and sent from a jpeg type file.

The reverse still needs work. I made it to plastic quickly but still have stains as seen in the photo in progress. About half the back is normal. Will do some small testing before taking the next move. Working direct on the plastic is a different ball game. Hope they post. Thanks for your interest. Chet

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