Minimum Grade

[Old Pueblo]

I plan to submit my Eagles to NCG for grading and there is a "Minimum Grade" option.

I figure this means incapsulating only coins at or above the grade selected.

For Eagles it seems like 69 or above is the right choice?

Does anyone have an opinion about the Minimum Grade selection for Proof Eagles?

 

Greatly appreciate the advice

 

Larry

[Schatzy]

I have never used the "minimum grade" option.

You still have to pay for the grading, the "minimum grade" is usually used when

dealers do bulk submissions and they want the coins to meet a certain grade.

they holder the coin that meet the grade and send the rest back ungraded.

 

Another reason to use this option is when you have a coin already graded and slabbed.

NGC will grade the coin in the holder and if use the minimum grade option they will

not crack the holder unless it meet the minimum grade that you requested.

[MarkFeld]

I plan to submit my Eagles to NCG for grading and there is a "Minimum Grade" option.

I figure this means incapsulating only coins at or above the grade selected.

For Eagles it seems like 69 or above is the right choice?

Does anyone have an opinion about the Minimum Grade selection for Proof Eagles?

 

Greatly appreciate the advice

 

Larry

What will you do with the ones that don't meet the minimum grade and don't get slabbed? Personally, I wouldn't use a minimum grade option for such coins.

[bsshog40]

I agree with Mark also!

[MunkyMan95]

I plan to submit my Eagles to NCG for grading and there is a "Minimum Grade" option.

I figure this means incapsulating only coins at or above the grade selected.

For Eagles it seems like 69 or above is the right choice?

Does anyone have an opinion about the Minimum Grade selection for Proof Eagles?

 

Greatly appreciate the advice

 

Larry

What will you do with the ones that don't meet the minimum grade and don't get slabbed? Personally, I wouldn't use a minimum grade option for such coins.

 

I think a raw coin in mint packaging would be much easier to sell than a PF67 or 68.

 

Conversely, some people return the sub-par coins to the Mint if they can make it within the return period. I don't really approve of that, though.

[bartlesvilleok]

I have never used the "minimum grade" option.

You still have to pay for the grading, the "minimum grade" is usually used when

dealers do bulk submissions and they want the coins to meet a certain grade.

they holder the coin that meet the grade and send the rest back ungraded.

 

Another reason to use this option is when you have a coin already graded and slabbed.

NGC will grade the coin in the holder and if use the minimum grade option they will

not crack the holder unless it meet the minimum grade that you requested.

 

The only time I would use a minimum grade is on cross overs

[xJack]

I only use minimums on Bulk or crossovers.

 

The comment about 68 graded eagles is exactly right, they seem to bring less than original packages.

[michael]

I plan to submit my Eagles to NCG for grading and there is a "Minimum Grade" option.

I figure this means incapsulating only coins at or above the grade selected.

For Eagles it seems like 69 or above is the right choice?

Does anyone have an opinion about the Minimum Grade selection for Proof Eagles?

 

Greatly appreciate the advice

 

Larry

What will you do with the ones that don't meet the minimum grade and don't get slabbed? Personally, I wouldn't use a minimum grade option for such coins.

 

(thumbs u

[gmarguli]

I think a raw coin in mint packaging would be much easier to sell than a PF67 or 68.

 

Yep. For most of the modern bullion coins, anything below MS/PF69 is the kiss of death for the coin and you'd be better off selling it raw.

 

However, I did submit (300) 2008 Silver Eagles to NGC last year and didn't use a minimum grade and got a single PF65. It actually sold well, better than the PF69s, but that was to a crazy person.....Braddick.

[RareSov]

Very good point on that one

 

But in most cases you get to examine the coin first right if you can grade moderns then it only really matters when you have to leave the box intact. A PF68 is going to have significant tiny nicks or some spots or something major, not your common coin.

 

Anyone know who got the Jackson's Liberty PF64 or whatever.. there was one spouse which came in 1 at 64, 1 at 65, 1 at 66 etc.. now that person would be pissed they didn't put min grade

[Schatzy]

Anyone know who got the Jackson's Liberty PF64 or whatever.. there was one spouse which came in 1 at 64, 1 at 65, 1 at 66 etc.. now that person would be pissed they didn't put min grade

 

WHY? Either way you have to pay for the grading if it comes back in a low grade you can still do the crack out. Another thing I seen a PF65 or 66 that had a strike thru error. So of those low grade comes could have errors.

[RareSov]

Hmm true true ! didn't think of that

[Old Pueblo]

I have a few eagles that I have examined carefully at 10x and 20x mag and unable to find a defect of anykind. I do own a NGC PF70 Eagles and I must say I cannot find a flaw in that one either.

 

 

Thanks for all the response to my questions. Everyone has been great.

 

I hope soon I can provide insight and experience rather than just questions

 

Peace

[RareSov]

Look at a PF69 gold or silver

 

Even at 3x you will immediately find one or two "nicks" in the frost

[Schatzy]

Look at a PF69 gold or silver

 

Even at 3x you will immediately find one or two "nicks" in the frost

 

You can in a PF70 also, it depends where it is!!

[RareSov]

Haven't seen any myself ! maybe you are thinking of smaller ones..

[Schatzy]

Haven't seen any myself ! maybe you are thinking of smaller ones..

 

 

No, I have a 2003-S Silver Kennedy PF70UC with those problems.

[Old Pueblo]

I have always been at peace with my passive collecting, sort of a buy and hold approach. Numismatics got in the way of my passive collecting. The "I just want to know what I have" drives the numismatical interest in me. "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? It will take a professional to answer this question.

I am eager to spend a few bucks to find out though. Regardless of the outcome, I still love the way that coin shimmers, I love the history of US coinage.

It's kinda fun really.

 

[RareSov]

Can you get a picture ? at around 3-5x sort of magnification ?

[MarkFeld]

I have always been at peace with my passive collecting, sort of a buy and hold approach. Numismatics got in the way of my passive collecting. The "I just want to know what I have" drives the numismatical interest in me. "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? It will take a professional to answer this question.

I am eager to spend a few bucks to find out though. Regardless of the outcome, I still love the way that coin shimmers, I love the history of US coinage.

It's kinda fun really.

I'm not sure how the above applies to submitting modern bullion coins, with or without a minimum grade.

[Old Pueblo]

I have always been at peace with my passive collecting, sort of a buy and hold approach. Numismatics got in the way of my passive collecting. The "I just want to know what I have" drives the numismatical interest in me. "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? It will take a professional to answer this question.

I am eager to spend a few bucks to find out though. Regardless of the outcome, I still love the way that coin shimmers, I love the history of US coinage.

It's kinda fun really.

I'm not sure how the above applies to submitting modern bullion coins, with or without a minimum grade.

It has to with the decision to send Eagles for grading, reflecting that it hasn't mattered since my first Eagle purchase 22 years ago what the professional grade is. Only my curiosity to "know" what the grade is, since I cannot make that determination on my own.

[MarkFeld]

I have always been at peace with my passive collecting, sort of a buy and hold approach. Numismatics got in the way of my passive collecting. The "I just want to know what I have" drives the numismatical interest in me. "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? It will take a professional to answer this question.

I am eager to spend a few bucks to find out though. Regardless of the outcome, I still love the way that coin shimmers, I love the history of US coinage.

It's kinda fun really.

I'm not sure how the above applies to submitting modern bullion coins, with or without a minimum grade.

It has to with the decision to send Eagles for grading, reflecting that it hasn't mattered since my first Eagle purchase 22 years ago what the professional grade is. Only my curiosity to "know" what the grade is, since I cannot make that determination on my own.

You will only be getting a grading OPINION and that sure shouldn't be necessary to answer your question: "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? That answer should already be obvious.

[Old Pueblo]

I have always been at peace with my passive collecting, sort of a buy and hold approach. Numismatics got in the way of my passive collecting. The "I just want to know what I have" drives the numismatical interest in me. "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? It will take a professional to answer this question.

I am eager to spend a few bucks to find out though. Regardless of the outcome, I still love the way that coin shimmers, I love the history of US coinage.

It's kinda fun really.

I'm not sure how the above applies to submitting modern bullion coins, with or without a minimum grade.

It has to with the decision to send Eagles for grading, reflecting that it hasn't mattered since my first Eagle purchase 22 years ago what the professional grade is. Only my curiosity to "know" what the grade is, since I cannot make that determination on my own.

You will only be getting a grading OPINION and that sure shouldn't be necessary to answer your question: "Is my coin a rare specimen or a common"? That answer should already be obvious.

I hear you, Man, only Eagle that I don't have is the 1995 W. But maybe the 2006 Reverse will make the grade

[Conder101]

It has to with the decision to send Eagles for grading, reflecting that it hasn't mattered since my first Eagle purchase 22 years ago what the professional grade is. Only my curiosity to "know" what the grade is, since I cannot make that determination on my own.

Then spend some time studying a bunch of graded ASE's until you can. Paying someone else for an opinion won't teach you a thing. You will have a bunch of coins in plastic with grade opinions on them and still have no clue whether or not they are "right".