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1879-S and IHC-64

16 posts in this topic

Are you asking if either of them will get a star? No, definitely not, no chance of it.

Are you asking are these the stars of your collection? I don't know, cause I don't know what else you've got.

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I'll be brief so the next person won't have to scroll back and forth to read my response.

 

No! and No!

 

Chris

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Hmmph... rantrant You two think too much :D

Grades please... (star thing was only for the morgan. Doh' :makepoint: [orange\yellow\ochre toning])

 

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I did a little work (Adjusted the exposure) on the Morgan and I think you have a pretty nice MS64 hm shot 65.

The toning is not the type to generally get a star...

 

 

1879-S1.jpg

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The reverse is sweet - the obverse will be the detriment to this coins grade. If its squeaks by to grading being what looks like an old dip and retone

MS63

 

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I'm taking a close look at the Indian cent. It's in nice shape. Looking at the diamonds,a couple seem to be only partials. I can't for sure whether this is an 1864L. I'd say not from the pics. The 64L is more valuable.

I'll say EF-AU.

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(investigating coinfact.com)Indian is the 1864 Copper-Nickel version.(not arrowsharp bust)

Others:1864 Bronze and 1864-L.

 

- I ordered redbook yesterday (after collecting some coins for about 3 years.)

I Hope it helps. Collecting usa coins here in Finland can be like scratching lottery tickets one day i left 1893-O vf-xf (morgan) on the sellers table, because of hm hmm... fate\karma :grin: and almost banged my head on the wall next day... (quess the price: that's right 20€ lol )

 

- Now i have printed a small cheat note so i can look for the rare species and outrun those clever old bambustick collectors... (Here you must also really bargain to get the seller to lower the price, morgans are usually priced 20€--40€ whatever the grade is.)

 

-> Plus no NGC\PCGS\ANACS or similar to tell which coin grades what and which is a problem coin, basically you must burn some money "to catch the train" as i already mentioned collecting here is like playing Doom on nightmare skill (back in -94)

 

Here is a list of Finnish antique fairs (if someone travels here, too bad it isn't in english.)

http://www.antiikkiliike.com/antiikkimessut/

 

 

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quote

 

-> Plus no NGC\PCGS\ANACS or similar to tell which coin grades what and which is a problem coin, basically you must burn some money "to catch the train" as i already mentioned collecting here is like playing Doom on nightmare skill (back in -94)

 

Here is a list of Finnish antique fairs (if someone travels here, too bad it isn't in english.)

http://www.antiikkiliike.com/antiikkimessut/

 

 

Kind of like buying on Ebay. Never buy from someone who doesn't offer a return option.

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(investigating coinfact.com)Indian is the 1864 Copper-Nickel version.(not arrowsharp bust)

Others:1864 Bronze and 1864-L.

 

- I ordered redbook yesterday (after collecting some coins for about 3 years.)

I Hope it helps......................

 

Plus no NGC\PCGS\ANACS or similar to tell which coin grades what......

 

You might want to consider buying the book, ANA Grading Standards. For grading, I think it is far more helpful than the Red Book. Don't rely on the suggested values in the Red Book, either.

 

Chris

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ANA Grading Standards. For grading: I bought (at the same time) Photograde ISBN:0974237159, which one is better ?

 

I think it is far more helpful than the Red Book. Don't rely on the suggested values in the Red Book, either.

- Hope values are on buyers side as usually :P

 

 

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ANA Grading Standards. For grading: I bought (at the same time) Photograde ISBN:0974237159, which one is better ?

 

I think it is far more helpful than the Red Book. Don't rely on the suggested values in the Red Book, either.

- Hope values are on buyers side as usually :P

 

 

ANA Grading Standards is much better. It includes illustrations as examples for most written descriptions, whereas, Photograde provides mostly written descriptions and fewer illustrations.

 

You can't rely on any of the books for market values. Use them as a general guide only. Most of the values are inflated. Personally, I like to use the CDN Greysheet because it gives you an approximation of what a dealer might have paid. The other alternative would be to check actual auction prices realized from sites like Heritage, TeleTrade, etc.

 

Chris

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