JKK

Client was massively *spoon*ed, especially at whoever boned her dad by selling him phonies. Since I didn't get a fee, it also cost me a little money. Hope yours do better. My only consolation was that I had flagged both as "if genuine." The only reason they stood out to me was they looked unlike other examples, so that's the basis of the guidance as best I can offer.

Good luck. I had two come back bogus during a recent liquidation, one quarter and one half eagle. Sucked with a mighty suckage.

The first thing you do is weigh it. Then you compare it to images of slabbed real ones to see if it differs.

I know. How do you interpret this?

That's the first three-sided coin I've ever seen. Impressive.

The answer is a 63 isn't worth $2100.

Not necessarily, but not for the reason you might suppose. I just checked Ebenezer's sold listings and a couple MS-66 slabs hammered for ballpark of $250. While I'd definitely think a 67 could get more than a 66, I don't think it's 9x more.

I don't think that's a toughra, but with the photo quality and lack of other information, there's no point looking into it.

I wasn't thinking cleaning.

My vote is for abrasive PMD.

No. $30-60 for a $1-2 coin doesn't make much sense.

Let's see. Grade is about VF when you consider what look to be a lot of little dings. There is no die doubling of the valuable kind, though I see a bit of what looks like die deterioration doubling. Here's what you would be looking for as a real 35 DDR. High dealer retail looks like about $2; dealer would probably sell it for more like $1.25 and pay maybe a quarter for it.

I definitely wouldn't send it in for grading.

When you said "clean up well" I queased a little. Here's the best way I can put this, to amplify what JB said: if you want to make some of their value combust instantly, never to return to you, then clean them. If you'd prefer to have the most value, do not. It's like taking a random bill out of your wallet and burning it. And please do not think "Well, I'll just do a little here and there; no one will know." Take it for gospel that potential buyers will indeed know, no matter how you do it.

Let's adjust that to distinguishing between damage and mint errors; and of mint errors, which are valuable and which are just detractors. To progress on this, first you need to learn how hubs are created, dies are made, and coins are struck. The more you understand about that process, the more will become clear to you.

Nope. While the photo isn't well enough cropped for us to see very well, what I see is damage. That is consistent with the rest of the suffering this quarter's been through. A doubled die is a very rare condition and probably 80% of the posts here are modern coins with mechanical doubling (happened in striking) rather than doubled dies (happened to the die itself and affected every coin struck with that die). Mechanical doubling is so common that most people could find several examples in a roll, and not only is it not a valuable rarity, if anything it's a detractor from value. Good news here is the coin's still worth a quarter despite its abusive past relationships.

Judging by this thread, it might be gilt copper. That doesn't mean it doesn't have value, but does suggest it's not gold. I'm not a token expert. I found a couple sold listings on Ebenezer for $350-375, both clearly labeled as brass and someone paid that kind of money for it. Might be a nice find.

Can't tell anything from those. They look like brass, not gold. Willing to give them another look if you can provide upright-rotated, better-cropped, sharper and better lit photos.

Unfortunately, I don't see anything--on the only side you showed us--that is a mint error. I see a worn quarter with a medium scratch across the date, some parts of concentric circles suggesting rotary damage, post-mint tarnish on the jaw and neck, some bad rim dings, and a lethal gouge near the top. It is worth $0.25.

'Stang's right. Die deterioration doubling, a normal condition on a percentage of business strikes.

That's why the received wisdom says to buy the coin, not the holder.

Looks pretty good.

I do too. By VF-40 I mean: "Actually VF, but the typical dealer would probably put it out as EF-40." There is no grade of VF-40, of course. Good luck de-crudulating it. Careful.

VF-40 in my view. There's supposed to be at least a little mint luster remaining for EF, and I think the obverse wear is a bit heavy for that grade anyway. Some of the crudulation looks like it might be the beginning of tarnish. That said, I love the coin. Woodgrain is always cool.

Yep. Mutilated. Only as rare as people's will to mutilate. Value $0.10.