EagleRJO

I was going to suggest the same with possible shelf doubling, but it really didn't matter for a 1903 (P). Out of curiosity maybe the OP could compare the coin in-hand with the attached.

People really can't give you opinions without clear pics of both coin sides. However, in general your 1903 (P) Morgan is not scarce and is not very valuable, even with some doubling, unless it's a very high grade which is not likely. So it's probably not worth having it graded unless pics show something exceptional. And as far as what you should do with it that's really your call. NGC Coin Explorer 1903 Morgan Dollar Btw, welcome!

Along with the R's that fall in New York for use in the word "idear".

Me too, and was about to reply that it didn't look like a dryer coin but instead some type of adhesive on the reverse, possibly from being glued to a board, until I read Sandon's follow up comment. @ErrorfinderIt probably wasted a bunch of time and confused people by just swapping out the coin you wanted to discuss. If you wanted to ask about another coin simply start a new thread, and only post one coin per thread so it doesn't get confusing. I agree with Sandon that you need to understand what errors are before you can find them, and your making a classic rookie mistake of just thinking anything unusual might me an error. I have roll hunted for quite a while, as have may others here, and the reality is that most of the time something unusual you find is just a damaged coin. I would start over and go to the errors and varieties websites as well as the "Resources" thread linked by Sandon above instead of just continuing to spin your own wheels.

100, wow! You must have been going thru girlfriends like c.rap thru a goose.

I assume the scraping would be to try and alter the date to one that had value. Perhaps they gave up when they saw how it was coming out?

Well if there is a blob at the 2 how can you tell it's a 1982 penny? And if you were looking for a 1982-D small date copper penny see the attached I put together from a few sources which may help in your endeavor, however unlikely it may be finding one (virtually impossible). Some specifically go out of their way looking for super rare coins and errors like the 1982-D small date copper penny, which I agree is almost certainly going to be a waste of time. But if I just happen to come across say a 1982 penny, I would quickly look to see if it's a D mark and look at the 2 in the date to see if its a good distance away from the edge (as it would be for a "small date"). Then, once in a blue moon if its a 1982-D small date I might toss it on an accurate scale quick, since that is typically right next to me. For a basic check as I come across these things it's probably less than a minute, but you gotta be in it to win it.

Its actually listed in the table as "Trime (Silver)" under it's own heading. I think they could have just listed it as "Three Cents (Silver)" considering there is a separate heading in the table for "Three Cents (Cu-Ni)".

You just know I was going to like it. Very patriotic! Nice job.

I can picture you pounding your fist on the table while reciting the rant.

According to the Red Book the term "Trime" was used by the US Treasury Dept. and the table where I saw that was from ANA based on US mint records. It's a pretty unusual name for a coin, which is why it stuck out like a sore thumb in that ANA table.

A number of those on a counter in a pile could actually look like "fish scales".

You are correct. That was a typo and should have read smallest US silver coin.

Even though there is agreement it's not a significant error or variety, I still find the topic interesting as there isn't agreement concerning the cause. As opposed to the more common chime-in replies of ... damaged, took some hits, parking lot coin, agreed, PMD, etc. I'm on the fence side that it does look like damage. The coin has taken multiple heavy hits in the area of "Liberty" including the lower part of the L, right side of the B, top of the E, and top of the T. So it's not unreasonable to think the middle of the B also took a hit. Copper is a very soft metal that can have small pieces pushed around if it takes a hit, and the 1957 cents were 95% copper. I think it was @J P Mwho had one where part of a copper cent was actually moved from one part of a coin to a completely different area from a hit. It does look like the cross bar or horizontal middle part of the B took a hit starting at the right side and going to the left, with perhaps a slope down that way. It looks a little like the middle part stretched then broke off, shearing at the top and bottom where there is the missing part of the B, and a raised blob next to that. There may also be some part of the B remaining at the bottom of the gap, which also seems to have a rough surface like it broke off. The only other possibility I can think of is that there were die chips between the "I" and the "B", which is a weak part of the die (similar to what causes the "BIE" error), and that ended up filling in part of the B. But I think the top and bottom of the missing part of the B are too well defined for that to have occurred. That coin looks like it might be completely mangled and I am curious what the entire coin looks like. I am also curious if the right side of the cross bar of the B actually does slope down slightly going to the left, or maybe it's just discolored.

Sandon is talking about 2 different things: the missing part of the "B" on the op's coin; and a known error on a Lincoln cent where a very weak part of the die between the letters "B" and "E" breaks off creating the appearance of the letter "I" referred to as a "BIE" error. See attached for an example. The BIE error is one of several popular Lincoln cent die error types that people still collect, even though they may not be very valuable. http://varietyvista.com/25 What Are Die Varieties/Die Errors.htm

It's not coming up with PCG$ because it's an NGC holder! ... https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/4682265-009/50/

That $4/ounce spot price didn't look right as the 1-ounce copper round I just purchased was about $2. Spot price for copper today is $0.26/ounce. That is quite a mark-up for the copper bullion rounds above the spot price. Copper Bullion Spot Prices

Interesting historical tidbits. Also, they apparently were called "fish scales" as at 14.00mm they were the smallest US [silver] coin (a modern dime is 17.91mm for comparison), so that a few worn trimes laid on a counter gave the appearance of the scales on a fish.

Thinking about the journey a coin could have had before reaching your hand can be fascinating. One of the coin series I collect are Morgan silver dollars which were mostly struck from the late 1800's to early 1900's. I could picture an earlier one at some point in an old style canvas bank bag in a backroom office safe at a wild west bank, or in a persons pocket on a stagecoach with someone riding shotgun, literally. It was also a common coin stolen by many of the infamous outlaws, so maybe one of the many raw circulated Morgans I have was once in Jesse James' pocket . As a tribute to that for marketing Apmex came out with NGC & PCG$ BU Grade slabbed "Stage Coach" Morgan Dollars, of which I have a few where it was hard to find a nice raw BU grade one I liked. Some good advice, particularly about learning to grade since it's so important. @Elithenewguy If you want to eventually buy and sell coins you need to have a solid understanding of the basics first, including grading and valuations. Then eventually cherrypicking under-graded coins, errors and varieties which is more of an advanced area of coin collecting, and something I plan to do in the future. But I wouldn't go down that road until for example you can just look at a coin and come up with a fairly accurate grade. It's also typically picked from raw coins, so you also need a good handle on identifying counterfeits.

I have heard that if the value of a coin is below about $300 you lose money by submitting it for grading, as there isn't enough of a value bump by being slabbed to cover the grading cost. In that case you are prolly better off just selling the coin raw. There are other considerations when deciding to submit coins for grading, such as it can then be used in Competitive Registry sets and thay are easier to sell, but not really for low value coins like these.

I have quite a collection of American Silver Eagle bullion coins starting with 1986 (almost complete). Now you have to purchase them through dealers who get them in bulk shipments like pallets from the mint and then break out individual coins or rolls. Some of the larger bullion coin dealers like Apmex and JD Bullion take them and immediately put them in sealed individual or 20 roll protective packaging and call it "MintDirect", "MintSealed" or something similar. I just leave them in that or put them in easy-open coin coffins if they come raw.

Just looks like a small die scratch if the line by the mouth is raised, which it appears to be. Much more pronounced and larger scratches in this area have sold for like $2 to $4 recently on eBay (see attached), likely as just a novelty item. But I cant see the die scratch on your coin adding much value over the 25C face value since it's so small and not readily visible. Value for things like this are very dependent on how visible they are with the coin in-hand and no magnification. I think you are going to drive yourself nuts ... NVTS ... using a scope to find things on coins like this that don't add any value, or the similar "find" in another thread. I have a scope and only use it to confirm what I am seeing, like it's raised as a die scratch would be, or to check for very specific things like die markers for authentication.

@lcourtney123You are much better off posting one coin per topic for discussion per the pinned topic, after you have checked the references provided and still think you may have some with errors. It gets very confusing posting multiple coins in a single thread, unless its a related add-on.

By "transitional year" I assume you mean that 1964 was the last year silver planchets were used for quarters, and after that it was a Cu-Ni planchet. The big "transitional error" quarters people look for is a 1965 quarter struck on the previous years Ag planchet, but you have better odds hitting the Powerball. This can be checked by simply looking at the edge, and if you see a copper color in the middle it's a normal 1965 Cu-Ni planchet which had a solid copper core. For 1964 there really isn't any extra value simply because it was the last year an Ag planchet was used for quarters. For help with identifying typical errors see reference sites like: error-ref.com, varietyvista.com, and doubleddie.com. And for 1964 50C errors see the following article, which also has some approximate values. Also, it you are interested in errors the attached book on error values is extremely useful. https://robpaulsenlive.com/how-much-is-a-1964-quarter-worth/

@Hoghead515and @Sandon Those are some nice Trimes considering the relative rarity of the coins. Thanks for sharing.