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EagleRJO

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Everything posted by EagleRJO

  1. As I was reading the op's post I was thinking there might be a shot it was an incomplete punch planchet as it does have that look. I would take a closer look at this and carefully go through the criteria on the referenced site as they are pretty rare. [One negative is that it doesn't seem like there are the same or similar marks on both sides.]
  2. I recalled Dave Lange, the NGC variety guru who passed, discussing varieties of the older coins and how the locations of the various punches (date, portrait, etc.) can vary, but that the details should match. PCGS CoinFacts had the 1795 off-center bust (BB-51) and the 1798 13-Star dollar coins, and I didn't think the date on either one matches. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1795-1-off-center-bust-bb-51-b-14/96859 https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1798-1-small-eagle-13-stars/6867
  3. Right off the bat the dates are wrong, as well as a few other things. You can download authenticated examples at the PCGS CoinFacts site for a side-by-side comparison. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/category/dollars/draped-bust-dollar/type-1-small-eagle/737
  4. Yea, that was the wrong one. Fixed to show the Ike dollar transitional error coin. They both used the same "peg-leg R", with the Ike 1977-D $1 transitional error that has that "peg-leg R" being the one I think the counterfeiters were trying to copy and they just missed the "D" mint mark.
  5. What about the "D" mint mark which is missing on the coin if it got into the process at the Denver mint? Did you mean the Philly mint? I think the counterfeiters used the "peg-leg R" associated with the 1977-D [dollar] transitional metal error coin (attached), not the regular Philly clad type R" used there in 1977.
  6. I am sure Heritage and GC use professional equipment far out of reach to the average collector.
  7. I am going to take the under on this one and go with Chinese counterfeit. It cant be a one-off legit transitional metal error as they either would have needed to use a 40% Ag clad coil by mistake (if it's even conceivable they were in stock) to crank out the incorrect blanks, or had a supply of blanks left over that were used by mistake. It's not likely that a supply of 40% silver blanks were used to strike transitional errors almost 50 years ago without even one being discovered. Plus the appearance is just off, and it looks too thick to me. Adjusting the thickness is how the counterfeiters would compensate for using a non-silver metal while keeping the same diameter. Did you happen to measure the diameter and thickness before sending it off? Given the hype and value of a 1977-D 40% Ag transitional error there would be good reason to try and counterfeit that coin, and maybe get it wrong. Missing a "D" wouldn't surprise me for Chinese counterfeiters with other mistakes they have made, like mismatched sides and missing certain details or lettering. Also, simply because it is a silver color doesn't mean it is silver. I think the only outside shot it doesn't come back in a bag would be if it's an "error" from the "graveyard shift" at the mint messing around again finding its way into circulation.
  8. Sounds like you are putting the cart before the horse, as well as really limiting yourself with just error coins. Perhaps you meant errors and varieties, with the later being much more plentiful (https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/1655/Variety-versus-Mint-Error/). Before you can market these coins (I assume you mean "sell") you need to have them, which you likely don't have from what was posted. As noted, significant errors or varieties worth a decent amount are rarely just found in pocket change or bank rolls, so that means you need to purchase those coins. That is difficult to do and not lose money with buyer/seller fees and overhead, and you should know a good amount about coins before you start buying them or are able to readily identify them from searching rolls. You should start at the beginning, with first learning about coins. I would follow the sage advice of Sandon and others and start with the links provided. Maybe start with a pop quiz of going to eBay and looking up "wrong planchet coin" or "doubled die coin". Can you tell which ones could truly be on the wrong planchet or struck from a doubled die, and if they are offered for a good price? You should soon realize there is a lot to learn before being ready to start buying error and variety coins. "Pareidolia" ... my word of the day I just learned about. Thanks!
  9. I have seen those figures before, and as far as I know they were all bid, including the limited availability years. For the years with very limited availability you would of course expect a higher bid price ... supply and demand. I don't know if they were pricey at the time, but they are pricey now ... esp the 1889-CC and 1893-CC Morgans. Those two, as well as a few others like the 1893-S, have been a thorn in my side finishing up a complete circulation set I have been working on.
  10. As far as I know the GSA sold whatever they had on a bid basis (what I think you mean by "first-come-first-served") no matter how limited a particular year and mark may have been. And there were some with a much greater availability. Is there information available other than maybe rumors that would suggest otherwise, or that the GSA did anything underhanded?
  11. Why do think there were only a few of the ones being sold that were more valuable? As far as I know the majority were the better "Uncirculated" coins, and the badly bag marked or toned ones were sold with the "mixed years" coins. What "more valuable" category are you referencing? Plus the GSA was known for counting and tracking every nut and bolt. So there can't be more than perhaps a few handfulls of cherry uncirculated ones that went "missing". Watch the 1971 vid on handling and transporting the GSA hoard. Also, I still occasionally watch Gunsmoke.
  12. I caught these comments since this topic became active again, and note that public GSA auctions typically limited the number of coins that could be bid on by individuals to one of each type. Like the Aug 1973 and July 1974 GSA hoard bid instructions (attached) which notes "... you may bid on only one coin from each [year/selection] ...". Most of the individual sale CC Morgans have not been graded from a simple check of pop reports for the major TPGs. Accordingly, there are a considerable number of individual GSA hoard CC and other mark coins out there being privately held. These include a vast number of the "Uncirculated" coins which were cherrypicked by the GSA as the better coins (or not "culled out"), and would grade fairly high. There are also quite a number of the "Mixed Years" coins as well, which could have desirable toning. This toning was previously thought to be unattractive, as most collectirs at the time prefered the bright silver coins, and thus they were not selected for "uncirculated". These coins may also grade very high in addition to getting a bump for good "eye appeal" under current grading standards. There are very likely quite a lot of high grade raw CC Morgans still in a sock drawer or tucked away in an attic. From my own observations as a raw Morgan collector, there seems to be a limited but fairly steady supply of these high grade CC Morgans coming on the market over time as they are "discovered" hidden away or passed down to other who just want to sell them. So I have discovered that if you are in the market for some of these raw CC Morgans, at a relatively reasonable price, patience is the key. If you don't have one Kurt, you should definitely get a "slab cracker", readily available from better coin supply outfits, like Wizard Coin Supply. Cracks the entombed babies right out of those utilitarian paper-labeled plastic coin coffins, without it turning into a gut-wrenching almost-heart-stopping event from the fear of damaging the coin! Those slab crackers make short work of the TPG's tamper resistant holders.
  13. Can you indicate what you are using to take the pictutes and the lighting being used (e.g. natural sunlight, 60W led, etc) as well as post what you have so far similar to how Coinbuf posted a coin.
  14. And add to that the the books I also purchased. I just accumulated the books, info and links when I was researching Morgan silver dollars before I started a 105 coin NGC style Complete Circulation Set for those coins. "Know the coin before you buy the coin". See attached examples as well as the only four legit holders for the GSA Morgans previously posted. I knew it was going to be a big investment of time and money with 105 coins in the set (every year and all marks of circulated Morgans), including all the Carson City Morgans which can be pricy. Plus, I wanted raw coins in the set for the most part, which is how I think coins should be collected since I am a little old school, and another research and coin evaluation time suck with all the counterfeit Morgans around. Hence I still had the vid link. I caught these comments since this topic became active again and "Uncirculated" or Mixed Years" which could have desirable toning previously thougjt to be unattractive
  15. I think it has a look associated with cloth for whatever reason.
  16. Post some pics of what you have so far, and maybe @VKurtB our resident photographic expert may be able to help. I have always had trouble taking good representative individual pictures of what toned coins look like in-hand, so it may take multiple pics with different backgrounds, angles and lighting.
  17. Concerning Morgan silver dollars, I have tons of references and links, including stuff on the GSA hoards. I really couldn't believe they would do a documentary about that, so I saved the link. And yea, I recognized the commentators voice: "Holy coin hoards Batman, to the Bat Mobile so we can take these bad boys back to the bat cave before the Penguin steals them".
  18. I can't believe they made a movie in 1971 about the transporting and sorting of GSA Carson City coins. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwRNEQP2Ww0
  19. Also, the 2023 Innovation $1 coins including OH and LA from the P & D mints are hot off the presses on the way to me. I am all up to date with the complete series including P, D, S Proof & RP coins through 2022, so time to work on 2023. I think it's interesting that the "Underground Railroad" was picked as the innovation for OH as I would normally think of a thing for an innovation. https://www.usmint.gov/coins/coin-medal-programs/american-innovation-dollar-coins/ohio-underground-railroad https://www.usmint.gov/coins/coin-medal-programs/american-innovation-dollar-coins/louisiana-higgins-boat
  20. I'm not sure what that has to do with anything, which is already explained in the links provided anyway. So it will not be repeated here if people are unable to do a simple search indicated or read the referenced Wiki page.
  21. Are any of the "toned" areas incuse, where it possibly could be a struck-thru. Hit it with the scope.
  22. I have been a regular participant on this board for quite a while, and a lurker long before that. Discussions of coin collecting and related tangents really hasn't been about race, color, creed, gender or personal preferences. I cant imagine how that has or would be a factor on this board where someone might not feel 'included" and you would ask a moderator or NGC to get involved. Perhaps you are aware of a situation where people have not felt "included" that I am not aware of, or one that might even come up. I just don't see it with this board.
  23. I am guessing the one you had heard of was Eleanor Roosevelt. Some are pretty obscure. I am guessing many don't know most of them, but it's pretty easy to read up on them. https://www.usmint.gov/learn/coin-and-medal-programs/american-women-quarters Also, what is a moderator or NGC going to do if someone doesn't feel included?
  24. This is a super rare 1943 (P) Bronze/Copper Lincoln Cent. Your 1942 Bronze Lincoln cent looks like it took a hit at the date to move the "2" around, and is not the super rare 1943 coin by simple comparison. Bronze is 95% copper, which is a very soft metal and can result in hits moving things around. And the post title is WAY to long. I almost skipped the topic since I didn't really feel like reading through the title.