EagleRJO

Yea the 2021 CC as well as the O issues are really just "privy marks", but as noted there is still a significant premium on the CC privy marks due to the history and hype about Carson City struck coins. The surprising one to me is the value of MS70 2021-D Morgans, as it seems many were uncharacteristically poorly struck at the Denver mint putting a premium on well struck exceptionally clean ones. But I just don't like the way any of the 2021 Morgans look, which looks even worse and more poorly struck than the 1921's in my opinion. They just look kind of fake, and they were all computer "enhanced" images then cut out with CNC's. I did get all of the 2021 Morgans for my complete collection, but after looking them over I just shook my head and threw them back in the OPG never to be looked at again.

No, I'm not kidding. You may be surprised at how many newer collectors just start submitting their mint packaged coins just because they think that's what they are suppose to do or have an urge to do after watching some hyped up YT posers. But I don't think you fit in that category as you seem to have at least some knowledge and experience with buying and selling coins. And there are many coins worth submitting for grading, just not all of them, and particularly not average mint issue coins in OGP you are simply going to keep in your collection. Again, you may be surprised at how many newer collectors ask if they should submit average condition lower value coins (worth less than around $200 or so) for grading, including bullion coins, when they would lose money doing that. For lower valued coins there is often only a small premium on graded coins compared to the raw value, and getting bullion coins graded is a losing game. You can make some good money getting exceptional very clean 2021 Morgan or Peace dollars graded and then flipping them if they grade out MS70 as I noted, particularly the D and CC marks, since there is still a significant premium for those coins. But most of the better 2021 Morgan or Peace dollars have already been skimmed off the top and submitted for grading by dealers or savvy collectors as it has been some time now since they were issued. Many of the 2021 Morgan or Peace dollars being submitted for grading now are coming back as MS69 at best, and sites like eBay are flooded with those coins people are trying to sell at just break even prices, even with bulk grading fees, and sometimes at a loss just to clear inventory. If you have a good eye you may be able to cherry-pick some exceptional very clean ones still floating around that will grade out, and I hope it works out for you.

I keep coins in the OGP, but I seem to remember at one time you had to agree to the removal and there was a nominal charge. I don't see that as a current requirement, so maybe it changed at some point. I'm still curious why the OP is submitting these coins, and if they have been carefully evaluated so there is a good shot at perfect MS70s.

Good point which I missed before. Looking at it again I think you are right, and I overestimated the height of the "1" after a hit, and the area below that is likely just discolored. It should be the same height as the "2". Considering the above, I think the bottom of the "8" is slightly below the "1" and "2" as you noted, and as shown in the attached (with a large date for comparison on the right). Now I think the alignment as well as the shape of the "8" and "2" as before appear to both indicate a large date cent. And considering the condition, the "9" may have taken a hit shifting it down a little and the serifs of the "2" could easily have just worn off. So the only real discrepancy left in my mind is that the "2" is at a greater distance to the rim than a typical large date. But looking at the post with the full obverse it does not appear to be a clean strike.

That's what I thought. Makes you really stop and think why they would need a waiver to do that. Btw, why submit them for grading? And unless they grade out MS70 you will lose money, and TPG's are tight handing those out.

It really should be weighed with a decent scale that has at least 0.01g accuracy and calibrated with two (2) weights made for that purpose (e.g. 10g & 20g calibration weights). But if you at least check the weight of a shiny newer nickel (5.000g per the mint) it should give you a rough indication of accuracy.

OGP is okay, but I think you need to sign a waiver for the TPG to remove them from the OGP.

Pretty typical as the "must have now" demand or the novelty of that issue drops off after a little while. Even at the lower mintage there is not a demand that approaches or exceeds the mintage, so it makes sense to me. Supply and demand.

I agree that ethics and morals should be placed above all else. However, it seems we will have to just agree to disagree that selling a floating roof cent for a few bucks, as noted by Bob from recent sales, compromises that. https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/floating-roof-penny-value/?expand_article=1 Now selling something like that as more than just a novelty worth a few bucks, let alone as an extraordinary error or something worth anywhere near the $900 mentioned, is a different story.

Maybe a #2 pencil?

Since you have been collecting cents for so long you have probably seen this floating roof cent numerous times, so it's not worth anything extra. But to a newer collector who has not encountered one yet and would like to have one I don't think selling one to them for a few bucks is really out of line.

I see what looks like an edge strike from a reeded coin above the date which you might mistake for a capital "E" if you haven't seen that before. And has your scale been calibrated with a known calibration weight? What does it give you as the weight for a shiny nickel?

Many of the ones on that webpage do appear to be struck-through errors, and are labeled as such by the TPG including the first one. Although it appears the bull is off the nickel with those excessively high prices. $250 for a small struck- thru error to $650 for a larger struck-thru error on a bullion coin? Really? But I don’t see any labeled as a mint error with what looks like a partially struck area that seems to have a small planchet chip missing, like what appears to have happened with your coin.

True, but if you are a newer collector working on a complete set of Burnished or Proof ASEs that's not an option. Getting graded coins provides reasonable protection particularly for less experienced collectors, as I understand that counterfeit slabs for less expensive coins like ASEs are few and far between. What I don't get is why the mint uses the term "Uncirculated" for the Burnished coins as used by the rest of the collecting world and the Red Book. Plenty of other coins are also "uncirculated" without being burnished. [Even the TPG's use the term "Burnished"]

Many don't realize that and are following the YT hype, and driving themselves nuts (or "NVTS" ), searching through bags of cents looking for that winning lottery ticket.

Not necessarily, unless they are more valuable ones. I have almost a complete 105 coin circulated Morgan collection, and only a handful of the rarer or more valuable ones are graded. Most are just raw BU grade, with some raw XF or AU grade, as many are still commonly available for not that much money.

For me collecting the bullion ASEs is like my circulated quarters albums or binders of modern Presidential and Innovation $1 coins. Not that it has numismatic value like my Morgan collection, older half dollars or gold coins, but just because I enjoy collecting them.

I can't sympathize with the op because they are selling coins and "doing pretty good" probably ripping people off from what was posted, throwing out terms like NMM and 4FS for their "amazing" 1961 5C coin, which is actually nothing special and without even knowing basic nomenclature.

Even though I prefer coins in OGP, I get that some go for the graded Burnished (Uncirculated) or Proof ASEs. But I just shake my head when people talk about collecting graded bullion coins. I do collect the bullion ASEs starting with 1986 since they don't cost that much, and have almost all of them with not one graded. All raw BU grade coins for a little above spot, that are either in protective packaging from the dealer or that I do myself just for storage. I was also working on a complete set of Proof ASEs in OPG starting with 1986, but decided to cancel my subscription after this year due to quality issues the mint doesn't seem interested in correcting. So what's the point of filling in the gaps for Proof ASEs now?

Are you talking about Proof coins? Even then, I buy them in OGP and leave them that way.

Those numbers are for 5FS as indicated, which your coin is not as noted by others. By "doing pretty good selling" I hope you are not ripping people off by misrepresenting coins like this as anything special with worthless terms like NMM for a Philly coin or 4FS which is meaningless, or saying something has full steps (FS or 5FS) when it's not even close. And for your 1961 5C from the Philly mint (typically no mark from that mint) you usually don't use the "P", like in the link you posted which just has "1961 5C", unless you want to put it in parentheses like 1961 (P) 5C to make it clear it's from the Philly mint.

Blurry pics combined with possibly some minor strike or deteriorated die doubling doesn't make a coin a DDO as in the pic Sandon posted. See this infographic to help distinguish between the two in the future.

The CCG Store has the NGC coin flips, which may be the "acetate" coin flips referenced in the NGC webpage linked above as a compromise between length of storage and flexibility. I don't think they are archival quality intended for longer term use like the more rigid mylar Saflips. Anyway, I will stick with albums (circulated coins), tight fitting capsules (e.g. Air-Tite) or TPG style slabs (e.g. PCCB) for long term storage due to the pitfalls of using double-pocket flips.

I understand those Mylar "Saflips" may be best for longer term storage if you go that route even though they are more brittle, and I think that is the type of 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 flips I held onto. They tend to easily crack if bent back-and-fourth repeatedly with no smell. But I still don't trust them not to cause flip rub since they are less flexible, even if carefully handled, and for other than album coins I tend to gravitate towards larger coins which are a tighter fit in the 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 Saflips which I think is the largest size. I also avoid those slab or capsule gaskets (off-gassing by them or me isn't good ), and buy holders specifically made for the coins being stored.

I don't use them for storage, but I thought that most of the newer ones nowadays were either mylar (e.g. Saflip which has no vinyl but are harder) or non-plasticized vinyl (i.e. no pvc, but again harder), like the vinyl ones sold by Wizard. The NGC webpage linked above mentions "acetate flips" as a compromise for shipping or short-term storage, but I am not sure which ones those are. I have a few 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 double-pocket flips from larger dealers I kept in case I needed them for shipping, and they are somewhat flexible without that pvc smell.