Reno Raines

All money managers must disclose where their client's money is being put to work in monthly financial statements to their clients. It is the SEC's (security and exchange commission) responsibility to regulate all financial transactions that professional money managers make to ensure that all transactions are legitimate and not fraud or unethical. It's really no different than if you were investing in a distressed real estate company that promises to fix up the real estate and sells it for a profit but you want proof that the money you gave that company is going towards fixing the up property instead of the head of the distressed real estate company just pocketing your cash.

Thank you Mohawk and I'm glad to be back in the hobby.

I used to have one exactly like this one when I 15 years old. In my case I was walking to work (I couldn't get my DL until I was 16 years old) on an old railroad. I put it in my pocket and went to bed after work. The next morning I went to school and by the time I got home from school my stepmom had went into my room and stole it. I asked her why she took it and she said "I needed to buy a pack of smokes". After she did that I stopped collecting coins for 29 years and I'm slowly "Tip toeing" back into the hobby which is why I consider myself a newbie.

With all due respect there's no coin shops near me (the closet is roughly a 3 - 4 hour round trip drive) and it wouldn't make any sense to travel across the country just to attend coin shows given the current price of gas per gallon. Which I have to use various online sources to purchase coins.

If the ten ounce bar is bought at a respectable gold and silver dealer it will have a serial number. I never said to buy any generic silver bars without a serial number - to insure the purity of the silver. I was just showing that a person selling ASE's might not be able to get the NGC listed value for the coin at auction nothing more. Bottom line: Every money manger who knows what they're doing will tell you that you have to have a minimum of 25% of your total portfolio value in bars of gold and silver to preserve your wealth.

I don't think you're looking at the bigger picture. An ASE is more likely to be bought by a coin collector while silver bars on the other hand have a much wider audience and are faster to sell in order to raise some quick cash in a very short amount of time.

As we all know ASE's are made from one troy ounce of fine silver. The OP did say that he intends on keeping one for his collection but buying 20 for every year which more than likely means he'll get it graded somewhere down the line in order for it to qualify for the NGC registry or any other online registry. The last time I saw ungraded 2021 type 2 ASE's they were selling for nearly $100.00 each.

J P Mashoke, that is correct as investors prefer ten ounce silver bars (ten ounce bars are very popular for average people to invest in silver) over ten ASE's. Check out recent sales of ten ounce bars vs ten ASE's. It applies to all dates of ASE's regardless if it's the regular, proof or burnished version of an ASE in NGC MS70 or PF70. The main reason is bars of silver and gold are widely used as a hedge against the things I listed in my previous post and not coins made from those medals and are much easier to sell in good times for a profit. If fact this past Friday I brought my ten ounce bar of silver to work and my boss offered to buy it from me for $320.00 on the spot in cash. I bought that bar back in 2008 when the spot silver price was $8.00 per troy ounce and currently the spot silver price is around $22.00 - $23.00 per troy ounce.

Morpheus1967, with all due respect a ten ounce bar of silver on average goes for $300.00+ on ebay or any other silver dealer website everyday while an ASE in either NGC MS70 or PF70 in most cases doesn't go for nowhere near as high a a ten ounce bar. For example, I recently bought a NGC MS70 2013 Burnished ASE on ebay for a total of $91.12 NGC has that coin listed at $150.00 in that grade in the price guide currently. ASE's melt value is currently around $3.00 - $5.00 over the SPOT price silver (depending on the year) while if you buy a ten ounce bar from a silver dealer it already has a serial number (in most cases) on it and commands a premium. Another thing is the OP said he wants to buy twenty one ASE's for every year. That's all fine and dandy but it would cost him in the ballpark of $2,000.00+ for UNGRADED ASE's for every year. I was just basically giving him a cheaper way of acquiring the twenty one ounce he wants in the shortest amount of time so that he would be able to turn a profit if he wants. Always remember that professional money managers who control hundreds of billions of dollars are going to buy bars of gold and silver for their clients in uncertain times, when the stock markets looses hundreds of points in a trading session or in ultra high inflation times to protect their client's wealth and not coins made from those medals. The cheapest way the average person can have access to gold and silver is either by buying gold and silver coins or by investing in the GLD or SLV. The GLD is exchange traded fund that tracks the everyday movement of the price of gold per troy ounce and is backed by physical gold but you have to pay a certain percentage. The SLV is the same as the GLD but it tracks the everyday movement of the price of silver again per troy ounce. Anyway I hope this helps everybody understand my previous statement regarding the subject.

If anyone is just merely wanting gold or silver bullion maybe they should go to an online bullion dealer such as sdbullion.com instead of buying ASE's or gold coins. Anyway it's just a thought. To the OP: If you're wanting a total of twenty one ounces of silver ( buying twenty one ASE's equals twenty one ounces of silver) you could buy one NGC graded 2021 type 1 or type 2 MS70 ASE and two ten ounce bars of silver from sdbullion.com (the bars of silver will appreciate in value at a much faster pace than ASE's) which would be a lot cheaper compared to buying twenty - one ASE's since it seems to me that you're just looking to make a quick buck or trade and not be a true ASE collector which requires time and a lot of patience for ASE's to appreciate in value.

Sure gold and silver coins are great to have as staples in every coin collection or as a hedge against ultra high inflation - which inflation is near a 30 year high currently. However, the problem is gold coins graded NGC AU 55 or higher will in some cases cost around $300.00+ per coin. Personally I'd rather collect what I can afford (without going broke in the process) and like the design of. At the end of the day we all collect coins for various reasons or wants thus there's really no "Wrong" or "Right" way to collect coins - unless you're doing it just to try to make a quick buck to get bailed out of a bad investment that you've made in the markets during the trading day.

I enjoy learning about coins from those with a lot more knowledge than me since I'm new at the hobby. Once I complete the two sets I'm currently working on I'm sure I'll build another set maybe Flying Eagle cents in high grade or maybe something else.

I agree with all the posts above.

I consider myself as a below average collector. I collect coins I like but right right I'm working on two sets. The first set I'm working on is regular issue MS 70 Silver Eagles and the second set is MS 70 Burnished Silver Eagles.

Remember the first process in NGC coin grading is coin authentication BEFORE they will give the coin a number grade (1-70) using 5x maginfaction.

Go to the price guide on this site, find your coin and what grade it got.

AU means about uncirculated. Cleaned means that somewhere down the line the coin was cleaned by somebody however the coin is an authentic example of that particular coin.

It appears like the eyelid is double dyed to me but I'd like everybody's opinion. Thank you

Not worth grading due to being damaged.

No I see the number 2.

To me it looks like a 1913 or 1915 Lincoln cent but my vision isn't what it used to be. In any case in the condition it's in it's simply not worth grading. JMHO.

I'm a newbie but IMHO you should "Break up" your proof set since the coins are not in the original government packaging and send them in to be graded as individual PROOF COINS since they could be worth more money in that way (depending on what grade each coin receives) compared to being just a complete proof set. I recently bought the 1981 S type 1 proof set (which has a book value of $10.00 - $12.00) in the original government packaging and I'm leaning towards doing that unless someone here with more collecting expertise advises me not to do so. I'm not looking to sell any of the coins in my small collection but it never hurts to have them graded should I decide to do so.

Thank you Conder101 for your assistance I really appreciate it.

I have a couple of coins that I'm thinking about having graded but I don't know if they would fall under US coins or World coins since they are Cook Islands non - circulating leagal tender. I don't have anything so that I would be able to scan a picture of the coins in question but I'll describe them. Coin "A": It is 16mm in diameter and made from 1/10 oz of .24 gold. The obverse has two eagles in flight, the 2021 date and says "American Double Eagle". The reverse has the Liberty Bell, $5.00 demonation, says "A tribute to the United States" and Cook Islands mint. The coin came with a COA attesting to it's privately minted non - circulating legal tender status, proof striking and the gold from which it was made from. The COA is signed by Angela "Bay" Buccannon who was the 37th treasurer of the US and by Barry M. Goldwater Jr who was a congressman from CA. Coin "B": It is roughly 32mm in diameter and made from 1/2 oz of .999 fine silver. The obverse has two eagles in flight, the 2021 date and says "American Double Eagle". The reverse has the Liberty Bell, $2.00 demomanation, says "Atribute to the United States" and Cook Islands mint. The COA for this coin is exactly the same as the coin I listed above exect it says .999 fine silver instead of gold. Any help would be appreciated thank you.