dollarfan

Just now, dollarfan said:

i am thinking of purchasing this coin but the dirty grimy look just doesnt work for me.  is this the type of dirt and tarnish that can be removed through NGC conservation?

On 4/7/2021 at 10:33 AM, Frank Judge said:

The spec for weight a Daalder is 27.68g but my coin weighs only 25.82g. Is it still possible that this coin is not counterfeit?  It is 40.7- 41.4mm diameter and 2.2- 2.4mm thick.  It shows diamagnetism to a rare earth magnet and passes the "ping test" of a coin tester app. The coin has plain edges with some flat spots AND no evidence of a seam. This first picture is the suspect coin.

I did find the following example on the Numista site with stated weight 26.70g.

 

Is my coin genuine even although it has such a low weight? 

i am unfamiliar with this type of coin.  If the two sets of images are of the same coin, with the lower being a confirmed genuine specimen  then i would strongly be in the camp of perhaps not genuine.  the creature (dragon/lion) looking animal on the back is not similar at all.  from the leg spacing to the claws (hands?) to the positioning of the arm coming into the chest with just as many differences on the obverse.  the legs are like four or five times the spacing between the two photos.

4 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

 A couple of thoughts; first if you have applied as a collector my early congrats on being accepted and enjoy the ability to submit direct to CAC it is a very nice benefit.   Second do yourself and others a favor by carefully screening your coins and only sending coins that you think really merit a bean, clogging up the submission cycle with tons of subpar coins will only slow everything down for you and others.   Third weigh the costs against the benefit, you may have a ton of MS63 or 64 Morgans that deserve a bean but will having a bean really enhance the value enough to cover the shipping and review costs.  My second and third thoughts are closely tied together.   Lastly its not all about color for JA, he is looking for premium coins be they blast white or easter eggs, clean, original, eye appealing, unaltered coins that are at the top of the grade get the beans.   Most of my early submissions were all coins that I felt had a very high chance at passing so my pass rate was very high, just over 90%.   When I got to the coins that I was less certain of that rate fell to closer to 70%.

My process is to put a group together that I want to send, set the group aside for a day or so and then reevaluate each coin to weed out any that my emotional attachment might be clouding my objectivity on. pack them up and ship them off.

One last thought you might want to check into a third party insurance company, the company I use is Ship and Insure.  They offer insurance rates that are much less than through the post office, and an added benefit is they have discounted rates with FedEx.

those are excellent points coinbuf.  when you submit do you have a number of coins per submission or just dollar amount {not to exceed} of value.  i couldnt imagine losing a package of key date coins regardless of how much insurance.  The additional insurance is something i will definately do.  

hello again,  i believe i am finally getting close to being approved for non-dealer CAC submissions.  I have a bunch of coins that i am wondering about submitting but am totally new to the process.  could members please share their CAC experiences and give me advice on what i should be considering for morgans and peace dollars.  none of my coins have toning and all are mostly "blast white" and PL and DMPL on the morgans.  thanks in advance

14 hours ago, Conder101 said:

But the whole point of a crossover is that is it won't cross, it gets returned to you in the original unopened holder.  It is getting cracked out no matter what to be processed it isn't really a crossover it's a cracked out raw coin with them doing the cracking.

on the reverse do you think the three oclock rim hit would make it a damaged coin?  or too small   it looks like an au58 or 55 at the lowest to me.

5 minutes ago, bsshog40 said:

From the pics I have seen taken by Bob over the years, he mostly emphasizes on bringing out the actual colors of the coin. That may be why the original pics are more brown. 

i guess i dont understand the whole concept/  if i was to buy this coin and i opened it up  would my eyes see the brown indian cent or the purple one?  to me the actual colors would be the ones your eyes see?

both sets of pictures are very nice.  i still cant take a photo no matter how many OTT lights i bought   this may be a dumb question but what set of pictures does the coin actually look like?  the first set seems to be what the coin would look like.  does the coin look like the 2nd set of pictures and not like the first??

1 hour ago, Coinbuf said:

They are not unusual and there are many both graded and ungraded examples, I think I have two or three with varying amounts of roller marks.   The mints have a fairly broad range of what is considered ok in terms of quality control, just consider all the 1955/1955 double die coins that got coins and released.  Or the 1922 "plain" cents that were created due to the excessive die wear of the Denver die, and that is just two examples of one series where is QC had to be tighter those coins would not exist in the quantities they do.   As far as grading its mint made so really it should not affect the technical grading, however it falls under the eye appeal side of the current market grading so its more of a case by case evaluation.    The same is true for buying and selling, it clearly bothers the op enough to pass on buying, for myself it does not really bother me but I would not pay a PQ price for one with roller marks. 

here is another one,  thanks to all for the fantastic information.  this appears to be very common in CC morgans in MS grades  I pass on all specimens with this unless it is a super deal and those are rare.  great info!!

1 minute ago, GoldFinger1969 said:

Are you referring to what is most likely bag marks ?  I'm not sure from your question.

Bag marks happen from the coins being moved in bags....deeper "gouges" are from stronger impacts or other contact and/or circulation.

hello and thanks for the reply,  i am very familiar with bag marks and sorry if the pics dont show better.  I am asking about the group of straight lines going from 1 or 2 oclock down to 7 or 8 oclock, usually im seeing five or six parallel lines same lower cheek area over many different coins.  from my experiences bag marks are very random and all over.  these mark groupings seem very consistent and not random.

here is another coin, different year, both CC mints pictured

hello again,  i have passed up on purchasing several morgans that were very nice except for they all have these lower cheek scratch variations.  does anyone know more about these?  they are almost exactly the same on same coins of different years.  thanks

can you post a clear closeup of the liberty on the obverse

1 minute ago, dollarfan said:

RWB this is my 65+ peace i was telling you about last week.  i had to go digging.  it looks like a beat down dog compared to yours.  the strike is clearly much weaker,  this one does have luster and silver "sparkles" on all the high points so is it correct that would make it later in the die process?  i have a 64 that when i saw it i bought it because of the amazing detail,  im gonna dig for that one.  i think it has a much better strike.

On 3/2/2021 at 7:03 PM, RWB said:

The earlier post with little blue and red arrows was an attempt to help members identify well-struck (detailed) examples when buying. However, a couple of folks have asked to see the coin with out distractions, so here it is. Also, a recent thread ATS features a nicely struck 1921, and members are encouraged to compare the two coins.

2 minutes ago, RWB said:

Yes, I own the coin. Found it about 10+ years ago. I feel it is a circulation strike due to some visible reed marks among the eagle's feathers. Detail is actually better than some of the medal press proofs for 1921. The satin field is typical of very early strikes from a new die pair.... metal deformation (luster) has not had time to develop. As to "grade," I'll leave that to the viewer.

the nicest 1921 i have is a 65+ and it is a beauty (will need to dig it out now to compare) but from what i remember versus yours, i would say yours is 68??ish  is there even any 68 1921 peace?   67 absolutely but i think higher.  RWB  im tearing up over here.....is it a raw specimen??  please tell me

well i finally figured out what im going to do for long term storage,  i got the intercept shield double boxes, that individually hold the slab (X10 slabs) then go into another intercept shield box,  i kept them in the guardhouse shield protector bags so it seems they should be pretty much "SHIELDED"   my only other question was is the loose space that is left in the box meant to keep the little moisture evaporator that comes in the original packing inside the box with the coins?  i would hate to add contaminants after going thru the trouble of trying to protect the coins.  please advise.  Alex, was this what you were talking about??  thanks.

wow, this coin is amazing.  RWB is this your coin and what grade is it?  

if you could take a couple pics of the liberty half dollar, franklin half and lincoln cent first page of the albums im sure some of the more seasoned members will be able to provide sound information.

hello again,  i was wondering how NGC and PCGS determine whether a coin s PL, DPL or DMPL   Also, were the standards the same for OGH (old green holder or other old school holders) as they are now.  I have been working on a CC morgan subset of common date (78,80,81,82,83,84,85,90 and 91)  my goal is every date listed in the conditions of 62, 62+, 63, 63+, 64, 64+) and further a PL and either DPL or DMPL of the year for each and every grade.  It has been a blast so far putting it together.  But also very challenging as i am only interested in blast white, cac worthy type specimens.  there are 162 different grade/designations for these dates.  so far i have 51 and many of them are OGH's.  some of the PL ones look much more DPL as compared to certified DPLs.  some of the prices rise rapidly around 64 grades for DPL versus PL and some dates even at MS63 grade.   SO,  has anyone ever resubmitted and gotten a PL upgraded to DPL from an older slab?  any info on how they decide would be much appreciated thanks!

19 hours ago, Bradley4344 said:

That is definitely not a proof peace dollar. Dead give away are the letters on the reverse the letters are fat an thick meaning no contrast an the coin has a frost an luster to it means it's a buisness strike coin. Theres a think black streak that goes across the eagles right shoulder an specks that are on liberty's cheek an neck an the coin will have minimal toning specks an streaks which this coin has none of what I just mentioned. I have the coin I mention but getting it authenticated is like getting to go to the super bowl an playing in it cause nobody can believe they have that coin. The strike in liberty's central hair is struck so much more deeply you can almost see through it an the matte proof low relief sandblasted coins hair look stringy looking as to where the buisness strikes are thick an look like they have bed head or something. The eagle will have very sharp details especially on the upper wing an breast of the eagle. An all the letters an numbers will be sharper with higher contrast. This coin has none of that sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

can you post pics of your proof peace

wow, i agree with JKK that is very odd.  please post a closeup of the mintmark and also the obverse as we would like a closer look. thanks

1 minute ago, RWB said:

AU, fake toning. Please, OP go run...hide behind a shrubbery until this seller is gone.

Weak details especially on the reverse. As Just Bob noted, might be a strike through...field looks odd at top and in MM area.

yes i agree on all points,  i have been tracking the garbage this seller (you all have heard of him before.....urban legend)  continues to get away with selling and have reported him to ebay to no avail on items of "suspect" authenticity..  they just let it go and all the items sell.  he tones his coins exactly the same everytime and nobody who is buying the items catches on.  very sad

yes i agree very nice pics