Sandon

I see no doubling of any kind on the photos of this worn (Fine or so) and lightly damaged 1946-D cent. It is of the kind that dealers pay a few cents apiece for in bulk.

The circulated 1964-D cents have no numismatic value. You might want to save them for their copper content. The photo of the 1964 is blurry but even if it is uncirculated with mottled toning as it appears, it is also likely not worth a premium either. Many uncirculated rolls and bags of this date were saved, and they are only sought by collectors in high grade, original "red" uncirculated condition.

This is another common date wheat reverse Lincoln cent in no better than Very Fine condition. It is worth five to ten cents retail.

Based on the photos, this is just a circulated (Very Fine to Extremely Fine) 1941 Lincoln cent (887 million minted) with a retail (dealer sell as a single) value of 10-15 cents. Dealers buy these common circulated "wheat" cents in bulk (hundreds or thousands of pieces at a time) for 3 or 4 cents each.

Where shall I begin? "DD" means "doubled die", without the side that shows the doubling specified. "DDO" means doubled die obverse. "DDR" means doubled die reverse. They're all abbreviations referring to doubled dies, not to any other phenomenon. (Doubled dies are classified as die varieties, not as mint errors. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com).) Were you referring to the differences between a doubled die on the one hand and worthless strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling on the other hand? See Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com). I also see no doubling of any kind on the coin you posted. This would be like winning the Mega Millions lottery! I have collected coins and gone through my and relatives' change for the past fifty-two years and never found any coin in circulation worth more than a few dollars, whether because it was a silver coin, a better date, mint, or condition coin; a mint error or a die variety. The only legitimate mint errors I have ever found are a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters. I know a number of long-time collectors and know of only one case where any of them received a mint error of significant value in change, a struck Lincoln cent that had been overstruck by Jefferson nickel dies. Even that major error is only worth a few hundred dollars, not a thousand dollars or more! (Such significant errors are hardly ever found on coins issued after 2002 due to new equipment and procedures instituted by the U.S. mint that year, and even before that most significant errors that escaped mint inspection were likely intercepted at banks and counting houses and purchased by coin dealers.) As others have indicated, you have posted photos of an ordinary circulated 1959-D Lincoln cent. The Lincoln Memorial reverse was only instituted that year, and only one master die is known to have been used to create the "hubs" and working dies used to coin the nearly 1.3 billion 1959-D cents, so there are no different wide or close "AM" varieties. The only way you could prove otherwise would be to show noticeably different "AM" widths or other design characteristics on different pieces from that same year. You've obviously been getting incorrect or incomplete information, likely from the internet. Please refer to the resources linked in my post on your initial topic.

We really do need to see photos of each side of the coin to assess it. Additionally, your magnified screen shots are too blurry to see well. From what I can see, the secondary image appears to be very shallow, and I don't see any "notching" that would be associated with a doubled die. It's most likely strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling and of no collector value. See Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com). Have you checked listings for known doubled dies of this date and mint of cent on doubleddie.com and/or varietyvista.com to see if your coin could be one of these known varieties?

It's a 1912-D Barber dime (common date) in just barely Good condition (well-worn), with a retail list value in Coin World of $5.50. I doubt that a dealer would pay half that for it.

This 1946 Walking Liberty half dollar is only in Fine or so condition. A dealer would likely only pay around--probably a little less than--its silver value, currently $8.60, but which changes daily. See U.S. Silver Coin Melt Values | Silver Dollar Melt Value | NGC (ngccoin.com).

As stated, this is simply a coin that has been mutilated after it left the mint. The loss in weight is obviously due to the metal that was gouged out of the coin. (It couldn't have been struck on a dime planchet based on its color, its size and, not least the fact that the official weight of a dime planchet is 2.27 grams, not 2.7 grams!)

It appears to me to just be a normal "S", with slight distortion from die wear, as also appears around the date numerals. Sharper photos might help.

I agree that it is best to only try to remove surface dirt from a coin with a neutral solvent such as acetone, which will not form a chemical compound by interacting with the coin's metal or abrade its surface. Copper is highly reactive and may be unfavorably affected even by soap. Bear in mind that acetone is highly flammable and should be used far away from any possible flame or spark and in a well-ventilated area. The green substance is likely a compound that has already formed on the surface (environmental damage or corrosion) and probably can't be removed without further damaging this piece. What you have is technically not a coin but a "Hard Times token", many different types of which were privately produced from approximately 1834 to 1841. Many, like this one, have a political theme, criticizing President Andrew Jackson (the "illustrious predecessor" on this token, depicted as a person_too_unaware_of_social_graces) or his successor, President Martin Van Buren. The phrase "I follow in the steps of my illustrious predecessor" comes from Van Buren's inaugural address. The trunk labeled "subtreasury" mounted on a turtle's back refers to Jackson's depositing federal monies into favored local banks designated "subtreasuries" instead of renewing the charter of the Bank of the United States, which had previously been the depository for most such funds. I think that this is a common variety of no great value in this condition, but it is still a piece of historical interest.

A 1943 zinc coated steel cent has a retail value of 25 cents or so in this circulated and somewhat rusted condition. FYI, this is what an original uncirculated one (not replated, PCGS graded MS 65) looks like:

Please see my post on your previous topic. This 2017-D copper-plated zinc cent (nearly 4.3 billion minted) is discolored and has light wear as well. It is worth its face value. You are welcome to collect anything you find interesting, and you can easily find countless such pieces in circulation.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your 1969 (not 1969-D) cent is a common coin with a mintage of over 1.1 billion pieces. It is sought by collectors only in original mint red uncirculated condition and even in such condition is worth no more than a few dollars except in the very highest "Gem" uncirculated grades, such as MS 67 RD, which even pieces taken from original rolls and mint sealed bags seldom receive. Your coin is brown from handling and has About Uncirculated details, with areas of discoloration or corrosion due to environmental exposure. It has no value to collectors. Contrary to an increasing but incorrect usage, to grade a coin is not synonymous with sending it to a third-party grading service! Any coin you wish to collect should be graded--by you once you have the necessary skills. From my standpoint as a collector for over fifty years, to grade a coin means to examine the coin carefully and form my own opinion of its grade based upon my own knowledge of grading. Without such knowledge, one cannot form a reasonable opinion as to whether a coin is worth the substantial cost of third-party grading. Please refer to the print and online resources referred to in the following forum topics to begin you education regarding how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins. You should also attend such venues as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

I agree that by current standards this purported 1955 doubled die obverse (DDO) cent has About Uncirculated (50-55) details, although I would grade it Choice Extremely Fine (45) by my own standards. However, if this coin is being offered to you, I would not purchase it without its being authenticated and graded by a reputable third-party grading service as NGC, PCGS or ANACS. Some of the details appear unusually soft for this issue, especially on the reverse. It also has an unusual shine that could be indicative of a counterfeit or a "cleaning". As would be expected for a popular coin with a retail value of $2,000 or more in this condition, there have been a number of counterfeits of 1955 DDO cents. Numerous fakes of "key" coins like these have come from China in recent decades. Genuine examples of the 1955 DDO cent show these die scratches beneath the "T" in CENT, although I recall that that counterfeiters could attempt to imitate it: NGC Explorer photo.

There is a small die chip in the "9" of the date, as is common on cents of this era and particularly this date. As stated by others, the "B" of "LIBERTY" has simply been gouged out. It has no value to any knowledgeable collector.

By any chance does the label on the NGC holder in which this Capped Bust half dime is housed assign the coin a "details" grade and include a word like "Cleaned" or "Whizzed"? Could that be the reason for the "halo" in this case?

1828 curl base with knob 2 Capped Bust half dollar (O-107), PCGS graded XF 40:

As I recall, these coins came from a substantial group of rolls of uncirculated coins from the 1940s and 50s that had been preserved by a bank in Omaha, Nebraska. The dealers who submitted coins from these rolls to NGC and PCGS arranged to have this provenance stated on the labels for marketing purposes. This doesn't matter much to most collectors.

Many were saved by non-collectors who received them as gifts in the 1970s or who hoarded them because they believed they would be valuable someday. I've encountered a number of non-collectors who have one or several in their drawers. My cousins and I each received one or more from a relative in 1971-72; I think my cousins still have them even though they're not collectors. I've also seen several stashes of hundreds of pieces each. A member of my coin club has been selling off such a stash in groups of 20 or more at face value. Unlike the small-sized modern dollars, Eisenhower dollars aren't accepted by most vending and transit fare machines. They're also too heavy for most people to want to carry around.

The thin raised line between the letters on the Morgan dollar reverse is best referred to as a die crack; the term die break is usually used for where the raised metal is wider and more of a "blob." Die cracks are extremely common on Morgan dollars and other nineteenth century coins. It is best to start a new topic when you have a question about a coin different from the one with which you started the topic.

The "orange peel"-like texture and distortion are indicative of the coin having been struck from a worn die. The shallow secondary image to the left of some letters in "UNITED STATES" is clearly strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling, not a doubled die, and is of no collector value. See Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I am unable to see your first two photos on my computer screen. A genuine Maria Theresia thaler with "SF" below the bust, though dated 1780, is a restrike minted in substantial numbers from 1853 all the way up to the present and, according to the NGC World Coin Price Guide, is essentially worth its silver value of $18 or so. Austria Thaler KM T1 Prices & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). However, based on the weak central details and odd color, I suspect that it is a base metal counterfeit, which would have no value. The correct weight of a genuine piece would be 28.0668 grams. You should not hold a coin that you believe to have collector value with your bare hands, except by its edges if you must.

Based on the photos, your 1971-D (not 1971) Eisenhower dollar--a common coin with a reported mintage of 68,587,424 pieces--does appear to be "toned", though unattractively. I would rather call it "discolored". It also shows "rub" or wear on the high points, which would likely preclude a mint state (uncirculated) grade. The photos are blurry, but I'm pretty sure I see the brow line over the eagle's eye, so it isn't the purportedly scarce "Friendly Eagle" variety. Eisenhower Dollars (1971-1978) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). The coin probably isn't worth much, if anything, over face value. It really helps us when you ask specific questions. Was there anything else you particularly wanted to know about this coin? What articles have you read about it and where do they appear?

I have collected Liberty Seated dimes by date and mint for many years and also take note of and have acquired die varieties that I find particularly interesting or significant, such as different hubs, different date or mintmark sizes or styles, strongly repunched dates or mintmarks, or clear doubled dies. Most other varieties aren't interesting enough to attract attention from any significant number of collectors. I assume that you are referring to the books by Kamal M. Ahwash (1977) and Brian Greer (1992 and, according to the deluxe edition of the "Redbook", 2005) and the online reference seateddimevarieties.com by Gerry Fortin. Mr. Ahwash died decades ago, and the bibliography in the deluxe "Redbook" (7th edition at p. 1484) describes his Encyclopedia of United States Liberty Seated Dimes 1837-1891 as a "reference of historical interest." "Ahwash" numbers are almost never used now. Greer's The Complete Guide to Liberty Seated Dimes and system of classification (Greer numbers) appears to have been mostly superseded by Fortin's "web-book" and its "F" numbers. I'm not aware of any significant varieties that are listed in either the Ahwash or Greer references that aren't listed by Fortin, who lists more varieties than either of his predecessors. Small die cracks aren't "aberrations". They are normal results of die wear and are very common on nineteenth century coins, as well as on more recent issues. Fortin notes reverse die cracks as diagnostics of 1887 F-102, 107, 109, 110, 111, 112, and 114. Have you checked the Fortin reference to see if your coin is one of these varieties? (The 1887 Seated dime had a mintage of 11,283,229 pieces, and dozens of different die pairs were likely used to coin all of them. It is unlikely that anyone will ever catalog the characteristics of every die used, nor would most of them attract much collector interest.) As NGC VarietyPlus doesn't list any 1887 Liberty Seated dime varieties, it is extremely unlikely that NGC would attribute your coin as a variety even if it already has a Fortin number. Seated Liberty Dimes (1837-1891) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). ANACS might attribute it; check the ANACS site. If the coin doesn't appear to be a listed variety, you might consider sending photos of it to Fortin himself, whose e-mail address is included on his website.