Sandon

While I cannot fully assess your 1924 Lincoln cent from the photos, it appears to have uncirculated details with some mint "red" color, although I cannot be sure whether the color is original or resulted from the application of chemicals. If the color is original, the coin could have a retail value in the $50 to $100 range. If the color is not original, the coin would be considered "cleaned" or "recolored" and is worth very little. Unfortunately, the coin also shows spotty fingerprint patterns indicating that someone has handled it with bare hands, which is bad for all coins and especially so for uncirculated copper coins. It may continue to degrade. Its surface should be stabilized by being soaked in acetone (see instructions on other forum topics, as acetone is flammable) or at least rinsed in cold tap water, then patted (not rubbed) dry with a clean cloth or tissue and allowed to air dry far an hour or so. It should then be placed in a proper holder or album.

Your 1897-S Barber dime, a scarcer issue, has Extremely Fine to About Uncirculated details but appears to have been improperly "cleaned", resulting in hairline scratches and an unnatural color, as well as having a scrape on Liberty's face. An unimpaired example in this grade range would have a retail (dealer sell) value of approximately $200 to $300. It is difficult to value impaired coins, but I would estimate a value of half the retail ($100 to $150), and dealers would pay half to two thirds of that if they want to stock such pieces. I regard impaired coins as collectible with an appropriate discount. If you are interested in collecting Barber dimes by date and mint, you might want to keep this coin, as it may be difficult and somewhat costly to find an unimpaired 1897-S with this much detail.

The outer layers of clad coins are composed of a copper nickel alloy consisting of 75% copper and 25% nickel. If the coin is exposed to soil or various chemicals, especially when combined with moisture, this alloy will readily darken or otherwise discolor, as has almost certainly occurred to this 2017-D dime.

Your 1891 Morgan dollar, a relatively common date, appears to be in About Uncirculated (AU-50-55) condition, with retail list values of approximately $50-$60. A dealer might pay $25-$35 for it. You should obtain an appropriate hard plastic holder or capsule or "Mylar" (not vinyl) flip to store and protect it.

The only way to ensure that coins won't change over time would be to store them in a vacuum, as in outer space. Perhaps someday someone will find a way to do that.

@Ollie3677--Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your inquiry will likely get much better attention if you post it as a new topic on this forum instead of as a reply to someone else's topic from several years ago. You should also post clear, cropped photos of each side of your coin.

If you substantially undervalue a coin, NGC will charge you for the grading fee at the appropriate tier, and the coin will only be insured for the market value you put on the submission form in the event it is lost or damaged while in NGC's possession or in shipment back to you. The more serious issue, however, is that someone who is "new to the hobby" wants to submit coins to a third-party grading service. As someone who has been collecting coins since the early 1970s--some fifteen years before any such service existed--I find this concept puzzling. It is more likely that you will overvalue the coins you submit and spend multiples of what they are worth on grading and processing fees and shipping. (Most proof cents dated from the mid-1950s on would not be worth the cost of third-party grading unless they were likely to receive extremely high grades of PF 69-70 RD, which would require substantial knowledge and experience to determine. Values for such grades can be found, for example, in the NGC Price Guide, NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC).) Please review my initial reply to your previous topic regarding your 1881-O Morgan dollar. Respectfully, if you don't have sufficient knowledge of grading to determine an approximate grade and market value for your coins yourself, you should not be considering submitting coins to a third-party grading service. Instead of spending (and likely wasting) money on this, you should protect your coins in coin albums or other appropriate holders (or their original government packaging if applicable). Your time and money at this point would be much better learning how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself, which you may do in part through the print and online resources referred to in the following forum topics: Your education will also involve attendance at such venues as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of professionally graded coins and speak with experienced collectors and dealers. If you are determined despite this advice to submit your coins to NGC, at least first read this article by an experienced professional numismatist: Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Is your coin a 1942-S, as this topic is titled, or a 1944-S as shown? Bisecting reverse die cracks seem to be a relatively frequent occurrence on wartime composition five cent coins. The 1942-S in my album has a similar crack, albeit in a somewhat different position running from the "S" in "PLURIBUS" through the last "S" in "STATES":

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Coins struck from rotated dies are relatively common on nineteenth century U.S. coins and not particularly scarce on more modern issues. Only pieces struck in a full 180 degree "medallic alignment", in which each side faces upright when turned on the same axis from side to side, tend to command significant premiums.

This coin is housed in an older (1998 or before) PCGS holder that has likely acquired scratches and scuffs. At least some of the scratches appearing on your closeup appear to be on the holder, not the coin, but you can't tell for sure without in-person examination. That's one of the reasons why it is important to examine coins in person before buying them, especially coins as expensive as this one.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. CCG (NGC's parent company) has an online store. Currently available NGC coin supplies are shown here. NGC Coins Supplies – CCG Store (collectiblesgroup.com). It appears that plastic boxes for extra thick holders are currently available but not for oversize holders. If the box for extra thick holders isn't what you're looking for, you may wish to try other suppliers for boxes that will work for your holders, such as whitman.com, amosadvantage.com or wizardcoinsupply.com.

Proof 1875 Trade dollar, PCGS graded PR 63 CAM:

Please post cropped photos of the full obverse and reverse of the coin. Based on the current photos, it appears to have small planchet laminations. See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=lamination.

Generally speaking, this would be a good indicator that such a piece is not as issued by the U.S. Mint. Many coins are altered outside of the mint for sale as novelties, including pieces that have been plated, painted or "colorized", engraved, etc. So far, the only such piece authorized by the mint are colorized versions of the 2020 Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame commemorative half dollar and silver dollar.

Please note that it is very difficult to read your posts in large font, which must be slid over by clicking a mouse and are still cut off before the end on my computer screen. I am unable to read portions of them. Please use the regular font and type size for this forum. A Guide Book of United States Coins, Deluxe Edition, known as the "Mega Red" version of the "Redbook", in its Seventh Edition (2021), at p. 871 has the following statement regarding a "VIP" striking of 2000-P Sacagawea dollars, which is not widely known or included among listed varieties: "On November 18, 1999, a first-strike ceremony was held at the Philadelphia Mint. Invited dignitaries and guests were on hand, and some were allowed to push a button to have a coin struck. A medal (not high-speed circulation-strike) press was used. These coins had a special finish, lightly polished in appearance. It is thought that fewer than 600 were struck. Some of these were later packaged and sent to those in attendance at the ceremony. The special characteristics of these have not been well defined in numismatic literature. Coins privately polished outside of the Mint have confused the matter." (Emphasis added.) The coins whose photos you posted at the beginning of this topic and in your last reply are uncertified, unaccompanied by any special packaging or documentation, and are lightly worn, with the coin on the right in the initial post, which you indicated was the "VIP striking", having turned brown with traces of greenish corrosion. Neither coin shows any indication of a "special finish", "lightly polished" or otherwise. The description of these coins in the Deluxe "Redbook" ascribes no special characteristics to the lettering (not "writing") on these coins or their rims, nor does the coin you contend is a VIP striking exhibit any such characteristics. You have presented no evidence that either of these coins is anything other than a regular strike. Please note that modern, genuine coins are struck by dies on presses, not cast in molds.

Instead of the glossary, take a look at the introductory language in the "Redbook" to the section on Peace dollars and the listings of the 1921 and 1922 issues (p. 236 if you are still using the 2018 edition, p. 239 of the 2023 edition). All 1921 Peace dollars were struck in "high relief", resulting in most pieces being somewhat weakly struck at the centers. There are a few special strikings of pieces dated 1922 in high relief, but they are so rare as to be essentially uncollectable. All other Peace dollars (1922-1935) are struck in lower relief.

If the small dot in the field is raised and part of the coin metal, it is likely the result of a die chip, which on U.S. coins is generally considered to be a quality control issue, not a mint error, and does not make the coin more valuable. "NGC does not recognize as mint error coins those with minor die chips, breaks and rotations, etc., that fall within our interpretation of mint tolerance." Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) However, the photos are too small to tell for sure what it is, and I do not know whether there would be any market for such an anomaly on a coin of the United Kingdom

A "mule die clash" would result from a die being struck against a die other than the one that would ordinarily be paired with that die to produce coins. See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=mule+clash. It would be extremely unlikely for mint workers to accidently place dies intended for different coins in the same press, operate the press without a planchet being fed into it, and then replace one of the two damaged dies with the correct die and strike coins that show clash marks on the side struck from the remaining damaged die. Most of the few mule die clashes known to exist on U.S. coins date from the nineteenth century and include, most notably, varieties of 1857 Flying Eagle cents respectively showing traces of clash marks from a Liberty Seated quarter reverse, a Liberty Seated half dollar obverse, and a double eagle obverse. There is also an 1857 Liberty Seated quarter variety showing clash marks from a Flying Eagle cent. These nineteenth century pieces are believed to have resulted from misconduct by mint employees. The so-called 1999 cent mule die clash shows traces of lettering ("of AMERIC") from another Memorial cent reverse adjacent to the intended lettering and is discussed in the previously linked extract from error-ref.com. The authors note that it is not clear that this clash resulted from two reverse dies being mounted in a press at the same time. The photos posted by the OP do not show such traces of lettering, which may be seen on the photo posted by @Fenntucky Mike and in the following photo from error-ref.com:

These regular issue 2000-P Sacagawea dollars have a reported mintage of 767,140,000 pieces, so they are not and never will be rare coins. Both have some circulation wear and are worth face value. The large mintages of these coins for circulation in 2000-2001 and of Presidential dollars in 2007-11 represented renewed efforts by the U.S. government (following the failure of Susan B. Anthony dollars) to promote the use of dollar coins instead of dollar bills, but U.S. residents still prefer dollar bills, and these coins hardly circulate in the U.S. outside of mass transit systems. However, they have achieved popularity in some other countries, especially Ecuador, which uses the U.S. dollar as its currency, so millions have been exported overseas. Sacagawea was a young Native American (American Indian) woman of a Shoshone tribe who helped guide the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-06 on its exploration of the sizeable territories the United States had acquired in the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. The obverse is intended to depict Sacagawea and her infant son. As there are no contemporary images of Sacagawea, she was modeled by Randy'L He-dow Teton, a young Native American woman of partly Shoshone descent. Is there anything else you would like to know?

Your Morgan dollar is an 1881-O, struck at the New Orleans mint and only of sufficient value to even consider submitting to a grading service if it grades MS 64 (NGC Price Guide value $250) or higher. Based on your photos, your coin appears to have About Uncirculated details and a "washed out" appearance with some hairline scratches, suggesting that it has been improperly "cleaned" and, therefore, might only receive an adjectival "Details" grade. Its retail (dealer sell) value is probably in the $35 to $50 range, far less than what it would cost for you to submit. I recommend that you store it in a hard plastic holder or capsule that is obtainable at most coin shops or coin shows or online for no more than a few dollars to preserve it in its existing condition. By way of comparison, here are photos of an 1881 (Philadelphia mint, no mint mark) Morgan dollar that NGC graded MS 63. Note the coin's full details and full "cartwheel" luster. I bought this coin in its NGC holder some years ago. I would not submit it today to try for this grade.

1874 Liberty Seated quarter, now NGC graded AU 55:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The "Coin Marketplace" forum is for buying, selling and trading coins, not for questions such as yours, which will receive the best attention if posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. I have asked the forum moderators to move this topic there. If you are a new collector, you should not submit coins to third-party grading services, which is quite costly and to be successful requires the submitter's having substantial knowledge of grading and, in this case, the attribution of die varieties such as doubled dies. (Doubled dies are classified as die varieties, not mint errors.) The vast majority of coins that are posted on the forums said to exhibit "doubling" exhibit either none or have strike (a.k.a. machine or mechanical) doubling or die deterioration doubling, which have no market value and will not be attributed by NGC or other reputable grading services, who will nevertheless retain your grading, attribution and related fees. You should post, as separate new topics, clear, cropped photos of each side of each coin that you think exhibits "doubling", with closeups of the most prominently doubled areas. You may wish to review the following articles from reputable sources: Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com) https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html (and links therein)

You are encountering difficulties because you are confusing grading a coin with submitting the coin to a third-party grading service. The submission forms are based upon the assumption that you have adequate knowledge of how to grade and otherwise evaluate this coin yourself to select an appropriate grading tier and estimate the coin's market value. Without this knowledge, you would in all probability spend more on your submission than the coin is worth. The submission of coins to third-party grading services is generally not appropriate for new or casual collectors or for non-collectors. If you are not interested in becoming a collector but happen to own this coin and want an idea of its approximate grade and what it is currently worth, you may, as suggested, post clear, cropped photos of each side of here. You may also get an idea of the coin's grade by comparing it to the photos on PCGS Photograde at https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Morgan/Grades. (Impairments such as scratches, damage, and "cleaning" are also pertinent to determining a coin's grading description and value.) You could also show the coin to dealers at shops or coin shows in your area. Morgan dollars dated 1881 were made at four different mints. Unless your coin was minted at Carson City ("CC" mint mark on the reverse or "tails" side of the coin beneath the center of the wreath and above the "DO" of "DOLLAR"), it would only be worth enough to justify the cost of third-party grading if it is likely to receive a grade well into the uncirculated range (MS 64 or higher). If you are interested in collecting U.S. coins, you must learn grading and other pertinent topics. We can lead you to the appropriate resources. All you need to do is ask.

Presumably, NGC can't include a salvaged coin graded "Shipwreck Effect" in a competitive set because it couldn't be scored under the standard adjectival/numerical "Sheldon scale" system used in the competitive registry. Additionally, the competitive set category in which you placed your other pieces is specifically for Bashlow restrikes, not for items otherwise relating to Confederate "coinage", and a slot for an 1861-O Liberty Seated half dollar would not be relevant to that set. (Congratulations, by the way, on being best in that category.) I recommend that you create a custom set in which you may include your half dollar, as well as your Bashlow restrikes and presumably any other NGC graded (and PCGS graded U.S.) items that you find pertinent. The Administrator monitors this topic and will reply if she has additional comments.

This message comes up if you try to add a coin to a set through the "My Competitive Coins" page (green "+" sign at the right side of the slot), which only adds coins to competitive sets. If that is what you did, you need to open your custom set through NGC Registry | Custom Sets (collectors-society.com) and use the blue "Edit Set" tab at the top of the page and then the blue "Add from Inventory" tab at above the custom set's coin listing and select and add the appropriate coin from the list that should appear. If you already did this and got that message, then @Ali E., the Administrator, will have to address this issue.