Coinbuf

Welcome to the forum, in the future please indicate specifically what it is on any coin you post that you are asking about. I see no errors on this quarter, if the coloration is what you are asking about that is not a mint error. That is some type of environmental discoloration, perhaps buried in the ground for awhile or some soda pop spilled on it.

Welcome to the forum, yes fill the form and tier at the value you think the coin is worth. If for some reason you are off significantly NGC will adjust the tier and charge you the difference. US coins under a value of $300 (non gold coins) can be submitted under the economy tier which is the least expensive but also is the slowest service. These coins can also be submitted under the standard tier which has a max value of $3,000, is more expensive but the service is quicker than econ. Example, you submit a coin you think is worth $250 using the econ tier, it grades much higher and the value jumps to $2,500. NGC will adjust the tier to the standard tier and notify you of the change and charge. Don't worry it is not that difficult and NGC has in my experience been very easy to work with, I do not foresee any situation where they would return your coins ungraded (assuming that the coins are able to be graded) without contacting you first.

My vote is PMD.

MS69 is not perfect, the two reed marks in the center of the coin is why it is not an MS70. I assume that the line you speak of is at the bottom of the skirt, as that follows the skirt line it is not a scratch or defect . It appears to be some strike doubling, nothing to get upset about in my opinion. However, if it bothers you then sell the coin and buy one that you find acceptable to you.

It looks more like some die erosion from the photos, compare your photos to my photo of the known 1884 DDO double ear. Notice how much more pronounced the doubling of the earlobe is on my 1884 example. Also I am pretty sure that NGC will not attribute a coin unless it is listed in the NGC list of varieties or has been listed by one of the variety services with an FS number. I suggest that you post your photos on the CONECA forum, if they feel that your coin warrants an in hand review then you can send the coin to Variety Vista. Should it be determined that you have indeed found a new DDO they will assign it a new variety number. Only then would you be able to have the coin holdered as a variety at any TPG.

It looks like your coin has some plating bubbles around the date which you are thinking is doubling, that is the only area I see from your photos. If you think you see doubling elsewhere please indicate where as we cannot know what you are seeing.

I grade your coin as MS63BN, the hit on the lower jaw line and the corrosion spot at the forehead/hairline are the limiting grade factors. As such the retail value is not high enough to warrant grading, however, if you are wanting to have it placed into a slab for sentimental reasons that may outweigh the cost/value equation. This specked woodgrain look is very common on many of the late Indian Head cents as well as the first couple of years of the Lincoln cent production. Should you decided to have the coin graded it would not hurt to have NCS review the coin, just know in advance that in my opinion there is nothing that NCS can do for the coin. My 1909 S over inverted S mintmark, and one of my 1916-S coins have that same speckled toning look, it does not bother me personally but I will say that this type of toning can make getting a nice photo challenging.

I would not hold your breath waiting for that change.

Very difficult to help you with such limited information (no coin date etc), was this cent produced after 1982? If so you may be seeing split plating. In a nutshell, when struck the copper plating can be stretched too much and splits exposing the zinc core which is silver in color. Here is a site with more information and some examples that you can compare to your coin. While error-ref describes this as on broadstrike coins, it is very commonly seen on all the zinc core cents and very often seen around the date and lettering on non broadstrike coins. Split plate

I suspect that the counterstamp O would render the coin as damaged and not gradable, but as above I am not well versed in ancients so hopefully another member with more experience can chime in.

Welcome to the forum, true error coins (unlike varieties) are very difficult to place values on as each coins is somewhat unique and subject to market demand. My suggestion is that you have the coin authenticated and graded by NGC and then place it with Heritage or Stacks for auction. That will give you a true idea of the value.

Welcome to the forum, there is no reason that your coins will not be graded. If NGC had a concern or question about the submission form you filled out customer service would/will contact you to discuss any anomalies on the form. The only way I could even see what you are concerned about happening is if you left the lines on the form blank and only checked the two imaging boxes, however, again I would expect CS to contact you in that instance.

Welcome to the forum, just what research is it that you wish to conduct? The red book has some very basic info, NGC explorer has some background information on this coin, a google search will give you some wiki pages on it as well, and PCGS coinfacts. NGC explorer Coinfacts There are several books written about this and other gold coins by Q David Bowers, its possible that your local public library may have some that you can check out.

Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your venture. However, if the state quarter in your opening post is an example of a coin you think has errors you are off to a rocky start as I see no errors, just some staining from a can of soda or the like. You may have seen one of the many get rich quick from pocket change videos on you tube, coins like that posted for sale on sites like FB, etsy, ebay, and so on, unfortunately many (most) of those coins are also not errors. Some of those coins are being sold by individuals that are clueless and looking for another clueless buyer, some are posted by scammers looking to prey on the uninformed buyers that think they are getting a deal. And many of those you tube videos are posted so that the person posting the video can get rich from all the ads you have to watch. Some do have some real information, but many are just click bait to entice you in with little to no factual information in the video. Greenstang gave you a link to a great site, I highly recommend that you spend the time to read that site thoroughly.

I saw that on the forum ats too, sad news indeed. I purchased a couple of coins from Frank via the BST over there, he was a positive asset to the hobby and will be missed.

Looks like that bar may have been glued or perhaps soldered as mentioned. If you have the time to kill soak the coin in pure acetone for a few hours in a glass jar with a lid to keep the acetone from evaporating. If it is glue the acetone will melt the glue and let that bar release and fall off, the acetone will not harm or alter the coin itself. Again this is just if you feel like doing the experiment, the coin shows significant die erosion from dies that were over used and the coin has no value over the face value.

Welcome to the forum, if you do a search on the US coin section of this forum you will find multiple thread on the subject of photography. To give you any specific help we would need to know your camera equipment, lights, settings, etc. But in general make sure the coins are directly under the lens and move the lighting around to bring out the color of a coin. As suggested post up your setup and a couple of photos and I'm sure that we can help, for inspiration.

Lots of information above, I will only add that there are a few varieties that do sell for significant premiums. However, I do not collect Ikes, nor am I knowledgeable enough about those significant varieties to be able to advise you on them, it will be on you to do the research and determine if you have any of those varieties unless one of the other members can chime in with that info.

I concur, this looks like a damaged 1942 coin.

I told the op that I would put him on my ignore list, and being a man of my word that is just what I did so other than the few comments that other members have quoted I have no idea what the op has said in this or any other thread recently. For the record I am not or ever was offended, however my enjoyment of the forum is enhanced when I turn off individuals that treat myself and others here in a way that is rude and belligerent as the op has been to multiple members since he arrived here. I appreciate the support that members have shown to me, however I hold no ill will towards the op and encourage all the members of this forum to engage with the op as they see fit, I will continue keep the op on ignore as that makes the forum a more enjoyable experience for me. Most of us are here to learn and pass along whatever knowledge we have to share, at least that is why I am here and what I enjoy about this forum.

Yep as the others have said and demonstrated with photos of legit coins you have a counterfeit coin.

I have received some marketing emails as well, however I have not looked at or done any business with this firm.

Ian addressed this on the PCGS forum a few years back, I don't recall the specifics of why now, just that he had his reasons. Yes GC's auctions are public to a point, if you want the pricing info you have to be logged into the site. And the TPG's are not going to pay someone to sit there, log into GC and spend hours copying sales results and then imputing that data into their system. There is no bottom line incentive to do that, remember that both NGC and PCGS are now owned by wallstreet and in my experience wallstreet doesn't do anything for free or that doesn't enhance their bottom line.

It could be a data entry error, that does happen. The top set in the PCGS registry set I referenced above is not visible to the public so it could have the MS65RD example in that set, no way to know, the second highest set has an AU in that slot. GC does not share its auction history with the TPG's the way Heritage and Stacks does, so you will not be able to find any of that data on the auction history listed by the TPG's. If there truly is a 65RD it most likely sold via private contract and thus there will be no public record of the sale.