Coinbuf

Welcome to the forum, as said this is a private mint silver round not a US minted coin.

Good analysis and I agree with most of your points, but as @Sandon pointed out full obv photos (and/or a correct weight) would allow us to see the other markers and make a definitive call. From these poor microscope photos I stand by my opinion that this is a small date.

You can only submit to CAC if you yourself are an authorized collector submitter or thru an authorized CAC dealer. And in case you are wondering CAC is not currently and has not been accepting new collector members for several years. You will have to find a collector friend who has submission ability or work with the closest dealer which from what you are saying would have to be done via email/phone and entail extra shipping costs.

I hope that you made a typo and meant PCGS not PNGC, I have never heard of any grading company, legit or otherwise, named PNGC. Yes it is true that in general you have a better chance of getting higher bids for NGC or PCGS graded coins vs ANACS in an auction. Having said that, the type and generation of the ANACS holder really does matter and could make a big difference in an auction realized price. If you have any of the very old ANA holders that have the gold foil hologram on the back I strongly suggest that you do not have those put into new holders, those along with the photo certificate style of ANACS holders, are very sought after.

Yep that is indeed a small date zinc cent, the Denver mint made several million of those that year.

I cannot be of any help as I have no tokens in my collection, but best of luck on your quest and have fun!

Maybe I'm misreading your post eagle, but this poster is not the same as that who has the 1825 bust half, two different members.

There is no way to answer your question, at the very least we (by we I mean the members of this forum, NGC representatives cannot give any advice on a coin(s) even from photos) would need to see good in focus, cropped photos of each coin. But at the end of the day each coin would have to stand on its own merits and would have to be sent to NGC for grading. Keep in mind that there are no guaranties that all, or any, would receive the same grade as the current ANACS grade. And per the policies NGC only accepts PCGS graded coins as crossovers, any coin in a TPG holder other than PCGS must be removed from that holder (by you or by NGC) and will be graded raw, here is that policy. The issue is that once you remove the coins from their current ANACS holder you are now stuck with a new grade opinion which could be the same, higher, or could be lower (including a details grade). Also depending on the generation of the ANACS slab your coins are in you could potentially be losing a significant amount of value. Some of the older small white ANACS holders are sought by collectors, partly because the old holder shows the coin is stable and that any doctoring to the coin would have shown after all the years. In fact, some of those old slabs have a value just because so many of the older slabs have had the coins broken out so intact old slabs have a value that can be higher than the coin. Again, this may not be relevant to your situation and that could only be determined with photos of the slabs and coins. Before you decide on a course of action it would be wise to both know what your motivation is to have the coins in a new NGC slab vs the ANACS slab, and for you to evaluate what you have before deciding. Hope that helps.

I agree that there is a very high chance of a details grade, if not for the scratch and rim issues then for the old cleaning that has only just begun to retone. I do not follow the prices for bust half's, but I think the value is less than the members above, partly as I do not think your coin would grade as high as XF. I found one cleaned details XF45 graded coin (no scratch) in an ANACS holder for $145 with no bids, as your coin is raw and scratched I think its value is less than $145, closer to $100 or less in my estimate.

Welcome to the forum, and not a silly question at all considering the huge number of new people that post here who are confused by this very thing. There are actually several causes for effects that look like your example. as greenstang wrote your coin looks to be from worn dies, but this fake doubling or ghosting of the lettering and devices can also come from strike doubling and in the case of the zinc core copper coated modern cents something called split plate doubling. All of these are generally common and the product of poor quality control vs any type of real error. It is important to remember that coinage for circulation is produced at high speed in immense quantity, the US mint is a production factory and coins for circulation do not have to be perfect to fulfill their intended purpose.

Would be fun to meet up with other members, but too far and too expensive for my meager budget, for those that can I hope all have a great time.

It is not just 1948, and it is not a die issue, most of that chicken scratch (my term) are planchet marks that did not fully strike out. This comes from incomplete metal flow and it is actually very common on wheat cents.

Nice to see you post @GBrad! I would call your coin MS65+ shot 66, a very difficult coin in 67 or better.

Propblem is that the photos are not good enough, when I attempt to zoom in on my phone the photo gets too pixilated to be of any value. It might be a strikethrough or it may not, can you provide any high resolution photos of just the mark itself.

Wheel marks are very difficult to locate in a static photo, you have to turn the coin in a proper light to find the hairlines that are left from a wheel mark. NGC has a nice section that explains wheel marks and how to find them. Wheel mark education As to your question, "I also would like to know how to resubmit this morgan to get another go around with the graders." that is simple. Crack the coin out of the holder and resubmit the coin, however it is unlikely that you will achieve a different outcome.

Cool set!

Are there any areas in the mark that are silver in color? The photos are not the best but it seems that close to the VDB at the center of the mark it looks silver like the zinc core is showing thru. If that is the case then a simple scratch is the most likely answer.

Perhaps you would expand on just what "this coin is a different composition to my understanding" means. I am not aware of any experimental metal tests the mint was performing in 53, nor do I recall the mint minting any coins for foreign countries or US territories at that time. Your coin looks to be a normal circulated coin, my guess is your scale is not as accurate as you think and you'll be wasting your time and money having any testing done, but that is your choice.

Most likely it is an end of strip planchet, the planchets are punched out of long strips of material and it is not uncommon for the very end of the strip to be thinner than the middle. Do you have a precise measurement of the thickness?

Guessing is a poor substitute for knowledge, if it was even remotely close to either of those two errors the knowledgeable collectors that have already answered you question would have said so. It is just a damaged coin.

Welcome back to this side of the fence.

I do not see any evidence of a 2/3 from this photo.

I cannot speak for anyone else, but I never buy a coin without seeing both sides.

Thanks Lem, in hand the qtr obv is slightly less iridescent but the rev has slightly better colors than the photo suggests. I personally think it is under graded but the way the TPG's grade washies I do not have a good handle on.

Thanks for the update, this pricing was not well defined or communicated so it is good to have some finality to this.