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Coinbuf

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Everything posted by Coinbuf

  1. Place it on top of another cent, if this one is smaller then it could also be a dryer coin.
  2. These are sometimes called MAD (misaligned die) they are cool but it would have to much further off center to be worth a premium. Still a neat find if you want to save it.
  3. Call me jaded but I very much doubt that what you have are true unopened rolls, unopened by you maybe but not really unopened.
  4. There are plenty out there to choose from so no need to buy one that has been worked over like this. Just a suggestion but maybe you would be better off to expand your horizons past just ebay. I found this rather decent looking XF45 in just 4 minutes of searching, it is in a PCGS holder that can be broken out and put into a holder/album. Granted that it is a bit more then the $84 for the ebay one, but imo it is better to save up and buy a better quality coin than settle for a damaged coin when shopping for easily available dates. Just a disclaimer, I have never bought from this seller and I am not recommending this dealer, just an example that with a little searching nice examples can be found. 32-S Edited to add: And Great Collections has a very attractive VF35 coming up NGC VF35
  5. Looks polished from these photos, I would not pay $84 for it myself.
  6. It will just depend on the condition of the coin, in 1900 1.4 million half eagles ($5 gold coins) were minted in Philadelphia, with an additional 329 thousand minted in SF (an S under the eagle on the reverse). The Philly mintage is not low or high for the series but high enough that any coin under AU condition is basically a bullion value coin. As the SF mintage was much lower that coin will have a lower grade threshold for value over bullion value. Without seeing the coin and the type of holder/bezel to attempt to assess the condition or grade it is impossible to give you any further info or values. As to the other coins you mentioned once again the condition is the critical question, as these came from pocket change the likelihood is that these are going to be valued at or close to the silver spot value for the coins made of silver. But as with the gold coin we really cannot be more specific without dates and mintmarks (coins were minted in Philly, SF, Denver) and good in focus photos that will allow us to approximate the grades and conditions. I'm sorry that I cannot be more rosy on the value of the coins you have, sadly that is more often then not the case for those who have received coins from relatives. The one thing you do have that cannot be replaced is the coins themselves and the connection they serve between you and your grandfather, in short the sentimental value may be far greater than the dollar value.
  7. I really love the old alfa numeric ANA slabs like these.
  8. Junk slabs are a treasure hunt but you really need to know how to grade the coins to have any chance to succeed. That dealer had close to two hundred of these that I picked thru you should have seen some of the junk I rejected. AU and spotted low end UNC's that were still graded by NNC as MS65 or better. I should take a photo of that capital holder some day, all the cents are still nice and bright BU's and look great in the display.
  9. Good advice and info in this reply, there are as with anything exceptions. About three years ago I bought 89-90 NNC slabbed Lincolns from a local dealer with the intention of cracking those and putting them into a nice capital coin display I had purchased previously. All the coins were graded as MS68 or MS67 and all were nice red no problem coins, in reality most were really MS64 or MS65 which are still very nice coins just not good candidates for grading given the value. These were cents from the early 1930's thru 1958 mix of dates and mintmarks, I paid anywhere from $.50 to $3 each; essentially what nice BU cents would cost. As I sat down and reviewed the coins I found three that stood out and I eventually sent two of those off to PCGS, one graded MS66RD and one (1938-D) graded MS67RD. The third I still have in my should I send or not pile and maybe one day I will, the point is that you should expect a very high percentage of NNC graded coins to grade much lower or; and this is the real issue; to have undisclosed issues like cleaning. Like anything you can find a gem or two in these holders, but you will have to search through a ton of them to find those few.
  10. From a strict detail standpoint the one you show on ebay is close, however that seller is fishing for a sucker at a price of $300. That coin is worth maybe $40 tops and the one you posted in your op is about half of this ebay dog due to the scratches and rim issues. Ebay is a dumping ground for lots of problem/junk coins at massively inflated prices meant to be sold to the uninformed suckers. You can find nice coins on ebay but you have to search thru lots and lots of garbage; like this item you posted; to find them. Just a thought, you really need to be careful advising anyone about grades and values if you are not really good at grading and know the market. You could end up giving some really bad advice through good intentions.
  11. Nope that one has serious environmental damage, dried out and crispy as @Lem E noted. I say netted down to EF, and I also question the FH designation as it is detached.
  12. From the photos it looks like a grease strike thru, worth a slight premium but nothing you will be retiring on.
  13. Generally speaking coins that are removed from the mount have marks from the mount, so if sent to the TPG's these coins will not (usually) be given a grade and noted on the slab. Many times coins from jewelry will have worn surfaces (from contact with the skin) or heavy scratches which usually reduce the value to bullion anyway. Unless the coin is an extreme rarity it would not be worth the time and cost to have it graded and slabbed. Here is an example of one such coin in a PCGS slab.
  14. I had not seen this until today, talk about weird and bizarre. Not to mention the bids it has generated, wow!! PCGS cricket slab
  15. No these images were done for me by Mark Goodman, he takes phenomenal coin images. I think he shot this coin back in the early twenty teens, not sure exactly when but long before I got semi serious with my photo setup from Ray. The layout was put together by a member of the PCGS forum in the early 2000's which he was gracious enough to share with the forum. If you have photoshop (I use elements) I would be happy to share the templates that were given to me by that member, I think I have 5 different templates. It takes some time to do each of these reflection photos as you have 4 photo layers plus the prep of the original photos to fit the template, once you do a couple it gets easier. Edited to add: Mark literally wrote the book on coin photography Link to Marks's book if you can find it it is a gold mine of information on taking coin photos. But his website also has some tips and pointers Mark's website look under articles and then basic coin photography to start.
  16. I would agree that GC is a very good option, you can also contact Heritage and Stacks. It is my impression that both Heritage and Stacks have very high sellers commissions, but I have never sold thru either so that is only what I have read. Of course you can try the marketplace forum here too, it is free to sell but the eyeballs are somewhat limited and there can be some concerns when a seller with no reputation or references is selling high value items which might limit the number of buyers.
  17. Hello and welcome to the forums! Ebay is a good source to buy from but due to the costs sellers incur the prices are quite often retail or higher. Just a suggestion but you may want to branch out and explore other sites like the available auction sites. Sometimes you will find that ebay sellers may have the exact same coin listed on their website for less; just something to keep in mind as you search around. Hope you will enjoy being here and don't be shy about showing us the coins you have in your collection, we love to see coins.
  18. Just to clarify, the year 1997 is the first year that all the dies and hubs for the cent, the nickel and the dime, from both mints, were made using that method. It was not until 1999 that all denominations were made from dies that were produced by the single squeeze hubbing system. However there is evidence that the single squeeze method was used as early as the mid 1980's for some coins. So I will correct myself in that I cannot say for certain that a coin from 1993 was 100% for sure a result of the single squeeze method, but I think it is very likely for the high mintage coins like cents.
  19. ICG has gained some traction in the market and is considered by some to be equal to ANACS but still second fiddle to the top two NGC and PCGS. I tend to steer away form ICG, my personal experience with the quality has not been that great from an overall perspective. However if you have the chance to view the coins in ICG holders in hand and they meet with your approval then there is no reason not to buy a coin in an ICG holder.
  20. The upshot of all this is that you have a normal coin not a 2 feather variety.