James_OldeTowne

Jason, I think that Ike dollar is truly impressive, as depicted in your video!  AWESOME find!

Working in an auction venue, the "plus" can add a bit of value to an otherwise-normal coin, but it almost never seems to push it "half way" into the next grade range's value.  The STAR, however... that's a whole different ballgame.  I have seen some coins with a very mundane grade get pushed FAR above the grade-range's typical value.  The best example I can think of might be a common Morgan dollar, say MS-63, that sheets for $75 but sells for $3,000!  Of course, one might say that it was because of the astounding bag toning, but the point is - THAT coin earned a "star" and not a "plus" because of the unfathomable eye-appeal, not because it was "close to MS-64".

In that regard, I believe the "star" is the more desirable designation.

My first thought was: that coin spent A LOT of time at a laundromat -  !

In the $15 and below range, your best options might include Roosevelt dimes, short-set of Mercury dimes and Walkers, full set of Kennedy half-dollars, post-1940 Washington quarters, Jefferson nickels, and of course, post-1931 small cents - all of these NON-certified sets.  Another venture might be some sort of extended type set that could easily extend back to the 1840s.

Yep - 10 cents.

Any number of factors could cause the weird color.

Maybe D.N.C. indicates "do not certify"....  it's a nifty coin and well worth $3 or so, but obviously at that value, a dealer might want to indicate to his less-knowledgeable employees not to submit it for certification.  But I'm totally guessing and probably wrong -  .

My guess would be "glue residue".  Acetone should remove it in a jiffy.

These are surprisingly common (well, at least, not rare!) and worth a dollar or two or three in average condition.

They are extremely common and I think it would be very difficult to get twenty bucks for an MS-63, certified or not.  But of course, it's very cool to have coins from all over the world!

Common doubling due to overused dies.

I agree - common machine doubling / strike doubling / whatever that is common to the era of badly overused dies.

It likely spent time on a charm bracelet, or something of the ilk.

It wasn't part of your question, but for me, that old ANACS slab would have been substantially more desirable.  I REALLY liked those small-format slabs, and yours was of the generation suspected of being able to create phenomenal toning.

Agreed - need photos of both sides, preferably next to a ruler so the dimensions are obvious.

At first glance, to me, it looks like a minute crack in the plastic, reflected back by the mirrored surface of the coin.

This is a pretty nice and desirable DDR.  I think you can get $150 to $250 for it, even without a coveted CAM (or UCAM) designation.

The "population" of 4 is almost completely irrelevant.  There are surely hundreds of these, so they are not "rare", but they are desirable.

It also might be a planchet lamination.

I'm waiting for the "counterstamp coins" game....

Looks pretty nice, perhaps in the MS-63 to MS-64 range!

I have never personally seen a contemporary counterfeit 1883 "no cents" Liberty nickel, and yours is genuine.  There's really no way to know with 100% certainty when yours was plated, but I like the "look" of it!

I collect these actively.  That one has AU details, but it looks heavily dipped or cleaned, or otherwise altered in some manner.  Is that a scan?

I agree - you have what appears to be a modern Chinese copy (counterfeit).

It's merely an ordinary cent that has been heavily abused.

There is no added value here, and for that matter, the weaker date might be a negative for a common coin that can always be found "nice" (in circulated grades).