ldhair

Welcome to the NGC chat board.
    No, you do not have an example of the extremely rare 1958 doubled die cent, which features crisp, clear doubling on "LIBERTY" and the motto and looks like this (NGC VarietyPlus photos):
  
  A doubled die coin (a die variety) results from doubling in the die itself, so every coin struck from the die will feature the same doubling. Very few of the 1958 doubled die cent have ever been found, and none for decades, and it is likely that very few left the mint. Based on the photos you posted, I do not see doubling of any type on your coin, but be aware that many coins exhibit doubling caused by loose or worn dies, which coins have no collector value. See, for example, Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com). 
  Your coin was struck on a clipped planchet, a relatively minor mint error that generically is valued at $3 on a 95% copper alloy Lincoln cent in the 2023 A Guide Book of United States Coins, popularly known as the "Red Book" (p.443). 

There is NO DUES PAYABLE to be a posting member here. NONE AT ALL! The only thing that requires dues is having a membership for submitting coins. You really do need to get this straight. 

Sorry but the cost of grading is much more than the value of the coin. The images are good enough to decide on that.

Recently acquired this research piece to go with the 1-sovereign version. In the current draft die list, this one is --
Variety 1. Diagonal Lines in “D”

The letter “D” in Philadelphia has four prominent diagonal lines in the letter’s center. Several of these appear to be extension of lines outside of the letter. The textured field is the highest part of a working die, so the lines did not extend into the tops of letters. This variety represents about 30% of pieces offered by Stacks-Bowers and Heritage over the past 20 years.


Blanks for the four sovereign pieces were prepared in the New York Assay Office. These were shipped in two batches: 30,300 on May 24, 1945 and 60,780 on October 2, 1945.

This piece was graded "AU," however, it has well defined obverse detail and minimal contact damage to the reverse lettering. This combination is uncommon on these discs. This variety is also known from a cracked die (reverse, left of cartouche).

All of you on this forum are so knowledgeable! I could never hope to achieve your level. And most of all, you are the most patient group I’ve ever seen. Some of the questions are so out there, yet your responses are astute and kind. My thanks to all of you who respect the people that are not so gifted with numismatic knowledge , just wanted to let you know that I read all the posts and appreciate your great responses!
rock on forum members

Suggest you study on what an actual error is, so far every one of your listings have been damage or not worth the cost of grading  . Any Auction company would not accept any of the coins you have shown for auction.
Here is an example of the valuable 1955 DDO  
 
 
 
 

Sorry but the cost of grading is much more than the value of the coin. The images are good enough to decide on that.

Go ahead. Swirl that Q-Tip. Grind the garbage across the coin. 
If anyone must use Q-Tips, just roll the Q-Tip, not swirl, using no pressure at all. Still not a good idea but you will mess up fewer coins. All you want to do is spread/flow the acetone across the surface with as little contact as possible. Still a bad idea. 
Let's talk about testing. With a clean dropper put a drop of the fresh acetone you are using on a clean glass slide and let it dry. Now lets test the Q-Tips to be sure they are safe. Acetone can melt the stem of some Q-Tips. You don't want that on your coin. Soak the end of the Q-Tip in acetone for a minute or so. Touch it against a clean glass slide to leave a small sample and let it dry. Now put both slides under a scope and hope that both samples are clear. 
I have removed PVC from well over a thousand coins over the years and never had the need to contact the surface of the coin with anything but acetone. Let the acetone do it's work with baths with no rubbing. Test the used acetone after each bath under the scope. You will see the progress and you will know when the acetone has done all it can do. It's also wise to flow fresh acetone over the coin as a final step. A squirt bottle works well for this but be sure the bottle is acetone safe.
I'm not going to get into the proper way of giving a coin a bath. That is a long story with several ways that work well. My favorite involves shot glasses. You only waste an ounce of acetone per bath and the edge of the coin are the only thing that come in contact with anything.  

Go ahead. Swirl that Q-Tip. Grind the garbage across the coin. 
If anyone must use Q-Tips, just roll the Q-Tip, not swirl, using no pressure at all. Still not a good idea but you will mess up fewer coins. All you want to do is spread/flow the acetone across the surface with as little contact as possible. Still a bad idea. 
Let's talk about testing. With a clean dropper put a drop of the fresh acetone you are using on a clean glass slide and let it dry. Now lets test the Q-Tips to be sure they are safe. Acetone can melt the stem of some Q-Tips. You don't want that on your coin. Soak the end of the Q-Tip in acetone for a minute or so. Touch it against a clean glass slide to leave a small sample and let it dry. Now put both slides under a scope and hope that both samples are clear. 
I have removed PVC from well over a thousand coins over the years and never had the need to contact the surface of the coin with anything but acetone. Let the acetone do it's work with baths with no rubbing. Test the used acetone after each bath under the scope. You will see the progress and you will know when the acetone has done all it can do. It's also wise to flow fresh acetone over the coin as a final step. A squirt bottle works well for this but be sure the bottle is acetone safe.
I'm not going to get into the proper way of giving a coin a bath. That is a long story with several ways that work well. My favorite involves shot glasses. You only waste an ounce of acetone per bath and the edge of the coin are the only thing that come in contact with anything.  

Thinking about the mass of “error” coins people think they have found, but are really just damage.
Scene: ANA Convention in a look-a-like suburb of Chicago. (Where all the cicadas are “zombies,” and all the birds think they are hawks.)
Imagine several display cases cluttered with parking lot coins. Maybe 1st case showing paved lot with a section of asphalt complete with lane paint and trash (maybe a clump of weeds for that natural touch), strewn with fast-food road-kill cents and nickels, plus a bit of trash.
Add to that a 2nd case coated with blue gravel, rocks, cigaret butts, spilled coffee, assorted dirt and more convenience store parking lot coins.
And a 3rd case with grooved concrete, sharp yellow lines, and coins with long defacing scrapes matching the concrete….
These could include toy trucks and cars, enlarged copies of chat board messages and photos about wonderful error coin finds; and maybe a projection of some internet scammers’ videos touting junk.
      Not sure how this might be handled by ANA judges. But when the Convention closed, the janitor could sweep it all away. No security problems.

I’m VKurtB and I approve of this message. I once bought a 15 page lot of coins from various European countries in those slide in long holders that go into a vinyl containing page. Well, that was my big project in the summer of 2022. The total number of coins was about 200 or more, and every one of them ended up with an acetone bath due to the vinyl. The obviousness depended on the actual metal of each coin. British 0.50 silver had the greenest presentation, but many Cu/Ni coins actually had a thicker coating. I used a Greysheet promotional shot glass, and some Petri dishes. You should have felt the vinyl slime left behind in the glass wear.