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AT or NT? 1827 Capped Bust dime

26 posts in this topic

AT. The green on the reverse is a give away on the legend as it covers the letters and fills in the A and O. The coin is also quite uniform in the application of the green to the reverse and obverse. The date is another give away as it matches too closely the surrounding toning. NT would not be as uniform, generally speaking. Notice also the color in Liberty on the cap. If it was full NT there would be more of a contrast to the surrounding toning than is present in the incuse letters. My conclusion is that this coin is AT, pretty, attractive but AT.

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My first thought is that the colors look right for a natural album toned coin. However, I am always cautious when I see such great color on a Bust coin, and I could see this one either way. The grainy grey-black toward the rims is suspicious to me because I have seen AT coins where the color "turns" that way. Generally natural dark grey-black toning has a different look.

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When the image first appears, it's a bit of a head jerker...but as you look at the coin a bit longer the color contrasts softens a bit and becomes more acceptable. The image may be juiced a bit to exagerate the colors...but I would think a doctor would have a hard time re-creating the transitional color patterns as seen on this coin.

 

I'm in the natural camp due to raised devices being one color and the fields adjacent yet another shade. Nicely struck coin btw...it should do well.

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Why is Heritage asking $11,000 for the coin and Anaconda asking only $10,000?

 

The only reason that I could speculate, is first off I have seen many expensive coins listed on Anaconda's website and later listed on Heritage at a higher price, I assume if someone is dumb enough to bid on heritage without checking around and buy it for the higher listed virtual bourse nonauction method then when Heritage takes its % off the top the balance to Anaconda is close to what Anaconda's website originally listed it for.

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I'll go ahead and express my opinion, but look forward to dissenting opinions (as have already been expressed). I think the coin is blatant, full-bodied artificial toning.

 

But that is merely my worthless opinion.

 

That being said, perhaps the angle of the images gives it the look that I don't like 893scratchchin-thumb.gif?

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When I first looked at this coin, my thought was, to describe it as an Anaconda coin.

 

Of course I had to laugh when I got to you post where you linked its for sale site.

 

Need I say more?

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I'll go ahead and express my opinion, but look forward to dissenting opinions (as have already been expressed). I think the coin is blatant, full-bodied artificial toning.

 

But that is merely my worthless opinion.

 

That being said, perhaps the angle of the images gives it the look that I don't like 893scratchchin-thumb.gif?

 

Maybe you have something. If you angle things just right, maybe the coin looks that way. But under normal circumstances, it is just battleship grey. I see that on some of the CBH's that I have, where there are pretty colors at certain angles, and one color straight on. Not sure how to photograph that yet myself.

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I'll go ahead and express my opinion, but look forward to dissenting opinions (as have already been expressed). I think the coin is blatant, full-bodied artificial toning.

 

But that is merely my worthless opinion.

 

That being said, perhaps the angle of the images gives it the look that I don't like 893scratchchin-thumb.gif?

junk7612.jpg

I agree with you because I have played with the sulfur bottles found on ebay to AT a coin. The way the central toning is on the reverse is kind of typical the way a coin tones when surrounded with a toning gas. Sure, it is a beautiful tone job but still AT nonetheless and is not worthy of a 65 grade with its associated price.

 

I saw some newbie post a link on the marketplace to his ebay auctions. He had a 1942 Type I nickel PCGS PR66 for a buy it now price of c. $2700. It is so obviously AT it's pathetic. It was an old PCGS holder when they let lots of AT stuff slip buy.

 

I actually have a 1942 Jefferson proof in 66 that is gorgeous, NT of beautiful blue. I gave $180 for the coin.

 

So.....mathematically this is the equation:

 

$180 coin + PCGS slab + AT - common sense + sleezebaggedness = $2700

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Personally, I don't care if the coin is AT or NT. I could not say from this lousy photo (looks like one of my own scans) whether I like this coin or not. The photo is dull and static. Nothing like the coin in-hand.

 

Hoot

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balant AT done by a master coin doctor circa 12-16 years ago and pcgs slabbed many of them.........

 

all were choice to gem unc. capped bust dimes

 

both services wised up so to speak and no longer slab such atrocities..................

 

 

a learning curve so to speak

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I tried going to the "CLICK HERE" hypertext link but it returned an "invalid item". I'm not going to say AT or NT...I'm going to say if I had a coin that looked like that in hand that I'd be suspicious and wouldn't buy it. I certainly might miss out on a nicely toned coin, but if it turned out to be the work of a coin doctor I'd be ahead of the game...L

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well, I get that too, but it's still on the anaconda site and they're asking $10,000.00 for it.

 

I must say, and this holds for all of us, when you're goal in collecting is color, what you will have is some NT, some AT, some altered surfaces etc... and I believe that is unavoidable no matter how much of an 'expert' you think you are.

 

if you buy from someone whose main gimmick is color, similarly this will be the case.

 

lesson to be learned, buy the coin First! NOT THE COLOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Colors important, yes, for eye appeal, but should be consequential to the originality of your coin.

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