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manual snipe strategy

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I've been beat out in auctions so many times and finally heard about the art of the snipe. I don't want a program but would like to know to be effective when should the snipe bid be placed? Also how high should the snipe bid be?

Thanks

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It depends past prices, how much you're willing to pay and how you think other bidders will behave. There is no set rule from what I've seen. Some auctions move a lot in the last few seconds, some hardly move.

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I avoid getting sniped by putting up the max bid I will pay. If I lose it, I wasn't sniped. If I win it, I got it for what I think it was worth to me.

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Try www.bidnapper.com. It works for me and can save you big $$$. It is a fact that ego is often involved when bidding and people can certainly get carried away. Who wants to compete with such an id*ot? It is like playing on a blackjack table and some bonehead hits when the dealer has 12 and takes the dealer's bust card. It is frustrating and should be avoided. This is the advantage of snipe software.

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I've used esnipe ever since I was sniped on the first coin I ever bid on in ebay.

I was sure I had the coin, after all, I had the high bid for days with some to spare.

Well, I didn't get that coin, that's for sure.

I snipe 6 seconds before the time is up.

The only time I lost was if I was either outbid by my max or someone bid the same price as I did (my max) but had done so at an earlier time (the earlier bid wins the auction). That happened to me once.

 

I wish there was software I could use to snipe the Heritage auctions.

I can never stay awake long enough and I don't believe in the maximum bid thing because the whole idea is to NOT promote active bidding and get into a bidding war. Something I've done on too many an occasion.

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Try www.bidnapper.com. It works for me and can save you big $$$. It is a fact that ego is often involved when bidding and people can certainly get carried away. Who wants to compete with such an id*ot? It is like playing on a blackjack table and some bonehead hits when the dealer has 12 and takes the dealer's bust card. It is frustrating and should be avoided. This is the advantage of snipe software.

 

I take it you know Vegas? foreheadslap.gif

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I used to use Bidnapper, too, but I stopped. Sometimes my snipe list would be 10-15 items at the same time..........Morgans, French medals, HK's, etc. It made it too easy to spend alot of money very fast. Now, I just figure what I would be willing to pay for an item, enter my max bid and leave it at that. If someone outbids me, I don't let my ego get the better of me.........so be it!

 

Chris

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I've used esnipe ever since I was sniped on the first coin I ever bid on in ebay.

I was sure I had the coin, after all, I had the high bid for days with some to spare.

Well, I didn't get that coin, that's for sure.

I snipe 6 seconds before the time is up.

The only time I lost was if I was either outbid by my max or someone bid the same price as I did (my max) but had done so at an earlier time (the earlier bid wins the auction). That happened to me once.

 

I wish there was software I could use to snipe the Heritage auctions.

I can never stay awake long enough and I don't believe in the maximum bid thing because the whole idea is to NOT promote active bidding and get into a bidding war. Something I've done on too many an occasion.

 

I've lost my last two auctions within the last six seconds.....just enough time to log my bid (snipe)... tell me I'm the high bidder...and reload the page. When I reload the page I find I've been outbid. I've finished second on an ANACS graded (AU55) 1928-D SLQ at $62.50 and a raw (VF20) 1834 CBH at ~$75. I'm torn between sniping software (set for 3 seconds before the auction ends) and just logging my high bid on day one and throwing my hands up in the air. L

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I avoid getting sniped by putting up the max bid I will pay. If I lose it, I wasn't sniped. If I win it, I got it for what I think it was worth to me.

This is key. You have to bid the true max you're willing to spend. The amount you bid is just as important as the time you bid. A true snipe leaves no time for additional bidding by you.

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If I win it, I got it for what I think it was worth to me.

But if you bid your max early you may get it for what itwas worth to you, but more than needed to pay had you sniped. For best results and lowest out of pocket expence, bid your absolute max, but bid it as a snipe bid.

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What is "SNIPPING" ?

 

confused-smiley-013.gif

 

Sniping when used in the online auction venacular is putting in a bid at the last second and leaving no time for other people to counter-bid if you beat them.

 

eBay's max bid system really elminates the need for sniping if you use it right, just put in the most you are willing to pay and let it auto-bid, and if someone beats you, you are beat -- but at least you weren't drawn into paying more than you really wanted to.

 

Snipping is what my wife does with the coupons on Sunday. poke2.gif

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If I win it, I got it for what I think it was worth to me.

But if you bid your max early you may get it for what itwas worth to you, but more than needed to pay had you sniped. For best results and lowest out of pocket expence, bid your absolute max, but bid it as a snipe bid.

 

I agree with this strategy. Just putting your max bid on ebay can cost you more. Plus, with a snipe software, you can always retract you bid with no negative repercussions.

 

Chris, you turned me on to bidnapper and now you ditch it? I'm glad that you didn't do the same thing to me with your ex-wife! tongue.gif

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If I win it, I got it for what I think it was worth to me.

But if you bid your max early you may get it for what itwas worth to you, but more than needed to pay had you sniped. For best results and lowest out of pocket expence, bid your absolute max, but bid it as a snipe bid.

There are very few auctions I would snipe, even if I really wanted the coin. I have overbid in an attempt to win an item I wanted, but I did not overbid an outrageous amount... well... once I did, but it balances out in the end.

 

If five people snipe just below your max and you are one of the five, it is the same effect as if you just bid your max and the four tried to snipe your bid with five seconds left. You win the item for the same price.

 

I've refined my bidding to a 2-bid system. I put in a winning but low bid just to get it in the MyEbay list (I don't "watch" an item... too many things to manage). Every evening I check the auction. If I want to bid it up, I bid my max. If I decide the price is no longer reasonable, I don't bid. If I loose it, it goes to the next bidder and I try again another day. Usually, I don't get hung up on loosing some of these competitive auctions. It's not worth the energy!

 

Scott hi.gif

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Chris, you turned me on to bidnapper and now you ditch it? I'm glad that you didn't do the same thing to me with your ex-wife! tongue.gif

 

Victor, I think you may have an idea how much I was spending on eBay. I wouldn't do that to you with my ex-wife because I don't think you carry a printing press with you.

 

Chris

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First of all, I use the "The most I am willing to pay plus 5.99% Max bid" strategy.

 

So if I'm willing to buy a coin for $100, I bid $105.99

 

 

Secondly....

 

It is like playing on a blackjack table and some bonehead hits when the dealer has 12 and takes the dealer's bust card.

 

I assume you mean when the dealer has a 2 showing and you're guessing he/she has a paint in the hole.

 

If I have eleven or less I will definetly hit if the dealer has a 2. Hell, If I have 10 or 11 I will double-down.

 

Nothing spoons me off more than someone trying to tell me how to play on a BlackJack table especially when it's usually someone who is losing.

 

Reminds me of my last trip to Vegas. I was playing at the Casino Royale (or the 'Royale with Cheese as my brothr and I like to call it) and sitting third base. On this one hand I had a soft 19 and the dealer had a six showing. Despite the jeering from others on the table I of COURSE doubled-down. I got a five which reduced my hand from 19 to 14. The dealer then turned a paint for herself. So by ignoring the incorrect advice from others on the table I turned the dealer's hand into a bust when it would've been a 21.

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I assume you mean when the dealer has a 2 showing and you're guessing he/she has a paint in the hole.

 

If I have eleven or less I will definetly hit if the dealer has a 2. Hell, If I have 10 or 11 I will double-down.

 

Of course, this is the right strategy. I wasn't too clear in my original statement but you understood. As far as doubling down with a soft 19, well...it's a risk that I probably wouldn't have taken but it wasn't an idiotic move, either.

 

It does not sound like you're the type of bonehead I was talking about. blush.gif

 

So, what type of bonehead are you actually? tongue.gif Just playing. 893whatthe.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif893whatthe.gif

 

Ok, you can give the knock on the noggin' for that comment. makepoint.gif

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