1967 penny struck through 1 1

[Marty1102]

Was the rear of this coin struck through something or is this some kind of damage? Also would there be doubling on the front or is that just a reflection? Thank you guys for any answers you can give me and other places where I can research this stuff other than YouTube videos since most of them are BS

[Sandon]

   The reverse of this 1967 cent was very likely planed off. The only other possibility is that there was a severe planchet defect that caused the coin to break in two, but this is extremely unlikely. The reverse roughness indicates that it isn't a uniface strike, which would be a virtual impossibility anyway.

   I see no "doubling" on this coin, even of the "worthless" kind.

[powermad5000]

I'll address the reverse of this coin first. I noticed what seems to be to my eyes a "cross-hatch" pattern to the surface. I also note that the surface is at uneven depths scattered about it. Even in the case of a uniface as noted by Sandon which would be more smooth, or in the different case of a capped die in which the surface in some cases may be slightly "wavy" depending on how long the cap was on the die, the surface on your coin I think was abraded in two different directions almost 90 degrees to each other. I think a file was part of what was used to remove material but there could also have been a metal rasp involved too which one would have a little less control on removal of the metal making those random deep spots. Or it could have been a fine file and a coarse file, but either way something used didn't allow the user to have good control on the depth of material removal.

The obverse is slightly worn and it may just be the lighting but I see what might be some strike doubling in the motto and WE TRUST in particular, but I don't see any doubling in LIBERTY or in the date numerals.

I would also say this coin was put back into circulation after the abrasion event which probably dulled down some of the peaks made by the removal tools and allowed the surface to "smooth out" a little bit as well as tone.

[Marty1102]

Thanks Powermad for your explanation! I appreciate it, thought for once I found something cool. 

[powermad5000]

On 9/18/2024 at 12:09 AM, Marty1102 said:

Thanks Powermad for your explanation! I appreciate it, thought for once I found something cool.

No problem!!! 

Eventually I have a feeling you will find something cool. One thing I have noticed about collecting, at least for me, is that I didn't find the coins I have, they found me.

[Marty1102]

I still have half a 5 gallon glass jug of coins from my grandfathers basement to go through. He told me he has been putting his change in it since the 60’s and put it in the basement in the late 80’s so fingers crossed 🤞🏼

[J P M]

Does the coin look thinner than normal. I was wondering if you have put this coin on a scale to see what the weight is.

[Marty1102]

It does look a little thinner. I have not weighed it.. I will when I get home today.

[Marty1102]

It weighs 3.1

[powermad5000]

The ideal weight for one of these is 3.11g +/- 0.12g of mint tolerance.

Does your scale weigh to the hundredth of a decimal point or 0.01g? If not, the scale is rounding up to the nearest tenth of a gram and scales reading only to the tenth of a decimal point (0.1g) are not accurate enough when it comes to weighing coins. 

If this coin does weigh 3.10g I would be surprised because of the amount of metal removed from the reverse. 

[J P M]

There are lots of cents with a full strike that weight 3.01. this could be a reversed caped die strike coin  

[Marty1102]

I am picking up a better scale. I was just using the one at my house. I have a better one. I will give you exact weight today.

[Marty1102]

[Marty1102]

here are pictures of the reverse with my microscope

[J P M]

The weight looks ok to me. If metal had been removed it would be a lot less weight. I think it is a capped reverse. Two blanks could have entered the chamber stuck together and you got the better half, the one with the date.

[Henri Charriere]

On 9/18/2024 at 2:49 AM, Marty1102 said:

I still have half a 5 gallon glass jug of coins from my late 80’s....

Hello there!

Just wanted to say be extra cautious with that giant glass jug!  It was not designed to hold metal which is a great deal heavier than water and has been known to explode (shatter) when picked up by the neck.  Use both hands to empty.  Try to locate a similar container made of molded plastic if you wish to continue saving the cents you have gone through.  

[Marty1102]

Here is another question I don’t plan on selling anything even if it was worth money. I don’t know if it is. I like to collect stuff for myself and then hopefully pass on and so on and so forth just like my grandfather and my dad did for me. I have a bunch of coins that are graded and in slabs. Is this something I should send in to get graded for when I pass it on to my kids? Or should I just put it in a coin holder, I don’t know enough about grades of coins, if the obverse of the coin is even worth sending in

[J P M]

On 10/3/2024 at 9:30 AM, Marty1102 said:

Here is another question I don’t plan on selling anything even if it was worth money. I don’t know if it is. I like to collect stuff for myself and then hopefully pass on and so on and so forth just like my grandfather and my dad did for me. I have a bunch of coins that are graded and in slabs. Is this something I should send in to get graded for when I pass it on to my kids? Or should I just put it in a coin holder, I don’t know enough about grades of coins, if the obverse of the coin is even worth sending in

Coin folders are a great way to save nice coins. You do not need to submit coins for grading until you know what you are working with, and the coin is of a high enough value or rarity to justify putting it in a slab

[Sandon]

  I still think that the reverse of the 1967 cent was damaged in some way, but it is curious that the coin is of a normal weight. Here are two other sites on which you could post it for opinions without the substantial cost of submitting it to a third-party grading service:

   1. Jon Sullivan, a dealer who specializes and is considered an expert on mint errors, at https://sullivannumismatics.com/contact-us/.

   2. The CONECA forum, at https://board.conecaonline.org/forum. I understand that you will have to register.

   As for the jug of coins that your grandfather accumulated from change between the 1960s and the late 1980s, by all means look through it, but the odds of your finding even a single coin in it that would be worth submitting to a grading service are quite small. You are most likely to some common date wheat cents worth a few cents each, a few silver coins worth a few dollars each, perhaps even a few minor mint errors or die varieties. Had your grandfather bought coins from coin dealers for $10 or more each in that era, those would be the coins that would be more likely to be worth hundreds of dollars or more today and be worthy of submission.

    

[Henri Charriere]

Unfortunately, there is no way to rush an education. It is kind of like exams one cannot prepare for:  aptitude tests, college boards, special progress -- even Intelligence Quotient tests that draw on life-times of knowledge and experience.

I do not know that this "wisdom" can be imparted to you by anyone, and certainly not quickly.  The finer nuances of coin collecting can only be appreciated by submersing  yourself in the subject matter and allowing the exposure to cumulative bits of information, over time, to take effect.

Avail yourself of basic resources such as a current edition of the Red Book and the ANA Grading Standards.  

[VKurtB]

On 10/3/2024 at 8:02 PM, Henri Charriere said:

Unfortunately, there is no way to rush an education. It is kind of like exams one cannot prepare for:  aptitude tests, college boards, special progress -- even Intelligence Quotient tests that draw on life-times of knowledge and experience.

I do not know that this "wisdom" can be imparted to you by anyone, and certainly not quickly.  The finer nuances of coin collecting can only be appreciated by submersing  yourself in the subject matter and allowing the exposure to cumulative bits of information, over time, to take effect.

Avail yourself of basic resources such as a current edition of the Red Book and the ANA Grading Standards.  

OUTSTANDING advice. I am reminded of the quip that answers, accurately, the secret to being a successful grader. “The correct light, a high quality low power loupe, and 25 years of experience.”

[powermad5000]

I will still maintain that the reverse of this is damaged. As far as capped die strikes go, here is the page from error-ref.com regarding the many forms of capped dies, and none of these appear like your cent, which is why I maintain my vote in the damage camp.

https://www.error-ref.com/?s=capped+die

[VKurtB]

On 10/3/2024 at 11:15 PM, powermad5000 said:

I will still maintain that the reverse of this is damaged. As far as capped die strikes go, here is the page from error-ref.com regarding the many forms of capped dies, and none of these appear like your cent, which is why I maintain my vote in the damage camp.

https://www.error-ref.com/?s=capped+die

I’m in the INTENTIONALLY damaged camp. aka altered. 

[Marty1102]

I am 100% not with anybody. I’m just asking why would it be smooth? It doesn’t feel scratched just asking

[Marty1102]

* not arguing with anyone I trust all you just letting you know what I see or feel on the coin to give you a bettEr description. So it doesn’t feel scratchy more smooth and wavy. Sorry about the last post stupid talk to text

[Sandon]

    I have seen coins with reverses that look like yours and which are generally the result of a machine or tool scraping or planing the reverse off. The results include surfaces that may vary from rough to quite smooth.  One would expect, however, that such a coin would be measurably underweight, assuming that it is weighed on an accurate scale, which is why I suggested further investigation by those who specialize in error coins. 

   For a coin to be classified as a type of "mint error", it must be determinable that the abnormality in the coin resulted from a specific problem in the manufacturing process at the mint.  That is why it is important to have knowledge of how coins are manufactured before trying to collect mint errors. These problems are limited, while the forms of damage and alteration that can befall a coin after it is struck are infinite. 

   The original image you posted appears to show no trace of the normal reverse. The image of the coin on the scale gives me the impression of a trace of the Lincoln Memorial. Which is correct?

[Marty1102]

Yes, you can see where it’s raised up where the memorial is and where one cent would’ve been almost looked like there’s a piece of cloth that was over it when it was stamped it’s really weird

[J P M]

I am sticking with my diagnosis of a capped die, late-stage ghosting or blead through if you like. There is still a bit of some rim showing. This piece is not the cupped cap but a strike from what was still covering the reverse die. It shows some of the detail through the cap. This coin has been around a long time and the weight is still good. As Sandon said if the scale is correct. 

Edited 9 hours ago by J P M

[Marty1102]

Who knows how long it’s been sitting in the 5 gallon jar in my grandparents basement

[Marty1102]

On 10/4/2024 at 6:55 PM, Sandon said:

    I have seen coins with reverses that look like yours and which are generally the result of a machine or tool scraping or planing the reverse off. The results include surfaces that may vary from rough to quite smooth.  One would expect, however, that such a coin would be measurably underweight, assuming that it is weighed on an accurate scale, which is why I suggested further investigation by those who specialize in error coins. 

   For a coin to be classified as a type of "mint error", it must be determinable that the abnormality in the coin resulted from a specific problem in the manufacturing process at the mint.  That is why it is important to have knowledge of how coins are manufactured before trying to collect mint errors. These problems are limited, while the forms of damage and alteration that can befall a coin after it is struck are infinite. 

   The original image you posted appears to show no trace of the normal reverse. The image of the coin on the scale gives me the impression of a trace of the Lincoln Memorial. Which is correct?

You are correct correct you can see the memorial