• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1909 s Heartbreak
1 1

28 posts in this topic

First one - 1909 S VF Details - Damaged ($60-$70)

Second one - 1909 S VDB VF Details - Scratched ($700-$850)

Third one - 1909 S AU 50 ($250)

Fourth one - 1914 D F Details - Environmental Damage ($125)

Depending on what you paid, I don't see where the heartbreak is other than they mostly have some kind of damage. I'd be happy with the S VDB even with the scratches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/9/2024 at 11:52 PM, powermad5000 said:

First one - 1909 S VF Details - Damaged ($60-$70)

Second one - 1909 S VDB VF Details - Scratched ($700-$850)

Third one - 1909 S AU 50 ($250)

Fourth one - 1914 D F Details - Environmental Damage ($125)

Depending on what you paid, I don't see where the heartbreak is other than they mostly have some kind of damage. I'd be happy with the S VDB even with the scratches.

That black thing on that one. I found that one.  I didn't expect to find the others. I bought a bunch of things. For that roll it was $5. I need to try and unload lots of unc and proof sets. Silver nickels for days. Lots of Buffalo nickels but none I needed. A shotgun roll of 1962 Nickels. and 1962 d unc roll cents 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello just to let you know IMO your 1909 S VDB is a counterfeit. Here is why...

There are only 4 mint mark positions for a genuine 1909 S VDB. Your coin is exhibiting a relatively close position #4. This is the lowest of 4 mint mark positions. However, the mint mark does not display the proper vertical serifs as a genuine coin would. Also, the date has misshaped numerals that are not consistent with a genuine coin. The 0 in particular is elliptical and almost appears to be tipped over. Also, the 9s are suspect due to their wide mouths and crinked bent top ends. The VDB is very fuzzy in the pics of the reverse, but it also does not appear to be correct as the B does not exhibit an angled crossbar and the entire VDB is not slightly slanted. Pic #1 Your coin. Pic #2 Mint mark position #4 Pic #3. Fully vertical serifs on Mint mark. Pic #4 Angle crossbar B Pic #5 Your coin again showing date spacing and numerals inconsistent with a genuine coin as well as mis aligned serifs on mint mark. Pic #6 Genuine 1909 S VDB in a grade close to your counterfeit coin. IMO this is a counterfeit coin. Sorry. I don't even want to look at your 1914 D because I may also have bad news. Sorry Cheers!

Screenshot_10-8-2024_15943_content.invisioncic.com.jpeg

Screenshot_10-8-2024_15851_www.pcgs.com.jpeg

Screenshot_10-8-2024_15914_www.pcgs.com.jpeg

Screenshot_10-8-2024_2017_www.pcgs.com.jpeg

Screenshot_10-8-2024_15943_content.invisioncic.com.jpeg

Screenshot_10-8-2024_22739_thepennylady.com.jpeg

Edited by Mike Meenderink
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gee Mike you are a real downer first thing in the morning. I am not saying you are wrong but. The pictures of the coins Halbrook posted are all on an angle and not very good close ups. I think instead of busting bubbles you could ask for better pictures first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1909 s vdb is fake?

$1250 with I think over $1140 in silver 300 dimes, 9 silver ike's, 30 (maybe more 40% halves)Some 90% halves but I forget how many, 200 nickels, 3 silver eagles, 1916d merc, 1909s (2 one bad damage), 1914d cent, and a fake 1909s vdb also a no date standing liberty quarter. 40 unc or proof sets. shot gun roll of 1962 nickels. Lots of buffalo but none I need. roll of 1968s nickels, roll of 1962d cents unc, plus more. ,

DSC02996.JPG

DSC02999.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 10:17 AM, Halbrook Family said:

Please look at 1914d. 

The best option for taking pictures with your phone is a silver or white background. Put your phone on something steady and flat so the shot is straight, far enough away so you get good focus and shoot. then take the shot and crop it to fit with as little border as posable. then post it that way Halbrook.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

took the 1916d merc to store to see if they would offer me anything. $575. Cashed in $700 of silver and kept dime. They had a 1952 proof sealed box I really really wanted. I over paid a bit on that but I wanted it. 

Also 1967 unc nickels about 20 of them. Still going through stuff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 7:33 AM, J P M said:

Sounds like you got your money back already.

Nerve wracking putting out so much money. I tried to make it so I'd break even on silver and everything else would be a plus. What eagle had the lowest mintage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 10:44 AM, Halbrook Family said:

What eagle had the lowest mintage?

Not sure which eagle you are asking about.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 11:04 AM, Halbrook Family said:

1996 w I got 1996 p

Well if it is not in a holder, I would think maybe a bit over spot for a 96W.. ASE 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 5:01 AM, J P M said:

Gee Mike you are a real downer first thing in the morning. I am not saying you are wrong but. The pictures of the coins Halbrook posted are all on an angle and not very good close ups. I think instead of busting bubbles you could ask for better pictures first.

Yea sorry it's just too obvious. I have many years of experience authenticating coins of all types. I find a certain zen when I research a coin as to its authenticity. The visual cues are burned into my brain and they stand out immediately when I look at a coin. I have a photographic memory which serves me well when grading and authenticating coins. The 0 is the dead giveaway as well as the rest of the diagnostics that this coin is a Chinese counterfeit.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not going to say Mike is wrong and I should have put that in my original reply that the S VDB would have to be vetted as it is a popular target for counterfeiters as well as the 16 D Merc. Typical fakes involve adding mintmarks to legit low dollar high mintage coins in the series such as the 1916 (P) Merc with an added D mintmark, and a 1909 Lincoln VDB (P) with an added S. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 7:17 AM, Halbrook Family said:

Please look at 1914d. 

It looks very weakly struck with muddy details. This coin I would need in hand to authenticate as there are fewer visual diagnostics I can go by. Weight and color are a good starting point. If I had to make an educated guess based purely on photos IMO I would not authenticate this coin. Take a long look at his jacket. The struck details are not there. They aren't worn down they just aren't there. That's a big clue. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 10:44 AM, Halbrook Family said:

Nerve wracking putting out so much money.

Trust me, I get it. Paid a hefty amount for a 1840 cent yesterday. I think I can sell it for a bit more but still...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2024 at 11:03 PM, powermad5000 said:

I am not going to say Mike is wrong and I should have put that in my original reply that the S VDB would have to be vetted as it is a popular target for counterfeiters as well as the 16 D Merc. Typical fakes involve adding mintmarks to legit low dollar high mintage coins in the series such as the 1916 (P) Merc with an added D mintmark, and a 1909 Lincoln VDB (P) with an added S. 

The 16d merc was approved of by my local coin shop. They offered me $575 for it. It's only a detail coin damaged and cleaned. In the coin shop they have a bogus 14d in there. In the counterfeit section. It was a 44d. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/11/2024 at 11:58 AM, ThePhiladelphiaPenny said:

Trust me, I get it. Paid a hefty amount for a 1840 cent yesterday. I think I can sell it for a bit more but still...

Well I priced it so I couldn't lose much. I broke even with the silver coins in the collection in silver weight alone. I might lose a bit on the proof sets. $3 each. 71 to 91. Not sure how I'll sell those. I'm not really a seller. It's easy to cash in the silver coins for melt. Got 5 silver blue env Ike's for $10 each. Lost a bit there. And paid $4 each (40) for unc and proof 65 to 70 but the silver price is barely above $4. Buying a whole big collection you have to take the OK stuff for a chance at something good. Lost a bit on the american eagles. I paid $40 for them. They are worth about $30 each. The red book says something else but they are only really worth the price of silver. Not sure what the red books says about the 1990p, 1987p or the 1996p. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/11/2024 at 11:58 AM, ThePhiladelphiaPenny said:

Trust me, I get it. Paid a hefty amount for a 1840 cent yesterday. I think I can sell it for a bit more but still...

Not that you would sell your 1840 cent but when you see something that you want....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
1 1