$10 1910 D Gold Coin worth getting graded? 1 1

[southern cross]

Looking at the coin grading website it kind of states expensive coins worth $5k generally get graded.

My coin is not worth anything like that so is it best to just leave as is ungraded.

I have no interest at selling at the moment.

Any replies would be most helpful and I thank you for replying.

[J P M]

The pictures are not clear enough to make a fair judgment on this coin. if you use a white background and place your camera on a solid base you may get a better shot and color. 

[Greenstang]

One good thing about getting it graded would be to prove its authenticity.    
There are many counterfeits of this series out there. I can’t really tell from    
those photos if yours is genuine or not.

[southern cross]

On 7/8/2024 at 4:32 AM, J P M said:

The pictures are not clear enough to make a fair judgment on this coin. if you use a white background and place your camera on a solid base you may get a better shot and color. 

 

On 7/8/2024 at 5:24 AM, Greenstang said:

One good thing about getting it graded would be to prove its authenticity.    
There are many counterfeits of this series out there. I can’t really tell from    
those photos if yours is genuine or not.

I tried to take better photos using a comic book backing board. Comics are my thing.

Appreciate the two of you replying.

I didn't buy this as I received it from a relative.

It also came with these notes and I suspect they received this currency decades and decades ago from change received.

[southern cross]

[Sandon]

    Welcome to the NGC chat board.

    Normally, I do my best to dissuade new or casual collectors from submitting coins to third-party grading services, which is what I assume you mean by "getting graded". It is extremely important to learn how to grade coins oneself before attempting this. In the case of a gold coin, however, there is also the issue of authenticity. If you ever did want to sell the coin or want to make sure it is genuine, it might be worth submitting for that reason alone.

   Your photos of this 1910-D "Indian Head" eagle are rather blurry, but from what I can see it is likely genuine and would receive an Extremely Fine to (more likely) About Uncirculated grade by today's grading standards. (The newer photos don't affect my opinion.) These coins contain nearly half a troy ounce of gold (currently about $1,150 in gold value alone) and have retail list values around $1,500 in the estimated grade range.  At NGC, assuming you have a paid NGC membership that includes submission privileges, this coin could be submitted in the "Gold" tier ($35 per coin grading fee), but the submission would also involve a $10 processing fee and $28 return shipping fee, as well as your own shipping costs. See NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com).  It would be more cost effective to submit the coin as part of a group, perhaps through an NGC member dealer. See Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com).  If you decide to submit the coin yourself, be sure to review each of the topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page.

   Your well-circulated Series 1953A $5 Silver Certificate is worth approximately $13 and certainly wouldn't be worth submitting to a third-party grading service such as Paper Money Guaranty (PMG), NGC's currency affiliate.

   

[nubond@msn.com]

Hi--I am a new collector--inherited this coin as well from a very old collector family member from Baltimore. I am interested in the question of whether to grade it or not.  I realize this is opinion, but I would love to get more advise as well on this 1910 coin.  We inherited over 500 coins, some back as far as colonial days.  We can't get any feedback on them.  We want to hold them, but want to grade the good ones. This 1910 is one we have.

[Coinbuf]

On 7/8/2024 at 10:44 AM, nubond@msn.com said:

Hi--I am a new collector--inherited this coin as well from a very old collector family member from Baltimore. I am interested in the question of whether to grade it or not.  I realize this is opinion, but I would love to get more advise as well on this 1910 coin.  We inherited over 500 coins, some back as far as colonial days.  We can't get any feedback on them.  We want to hold them, but want to grade the good ones. This 1910 is one we have.

Welcome to the forum, in the future it is best to start your own thread rather than tagging onto an existing one, less confusing that way.    Without at least some photos of the coin it is difficult to give you any specifics.   If you read the replies above other members have already mentioned that many gold coins have been the target of counterfeits in the past so it is the one type of coin that can benefit from TPG certification more than most.

My suggestion is for you to obtain a copy of the red book (see example below), this is the premier reference for coins.   While the values listed in the red book are often out of date, with it you can decide if any of the coins you have are just common or are any really rare.   That information will help you in deciding which coins you should consider for TPG grading by a firm like NGC.

[powermad5000]

On 7/8/2024 at 10:12 AM, southern cross said:

I didn't buy this as I received it from a relative.

Hello and welcome to the forum!

While this is not in the top 50 of counterfeited US coins, many other dates in this series and denomination are. Having this coin submitted would be less for its value, and more for the guarantee of authenticity upon whenever it does come time to sell it. I know you do not desire to sell it right now, but having it authenticated by a TPG would making selling in the future much easier when that time does come.

From your updated photos, I would think it is genuine although, there are constantly new fakes coming out all the time (most made in China), and some have gotten more difficult to detect over the years. Unless there is just a total failure of critical details easily visible, it is almost impossible to tell a fake from just a photo and not having the coin in hand.

Being this denomination in gold, you would not lose on grading costs, but as a single coin submission, I would follow the advice given by Sandon and use the dealer locater found on this website under the Resources tab and get it to a local dealer that would submit yours along with many other coins which would alleviate membership and shipping costs for you and you could get it certified for as little as possible.

[southern cross]

As I said I received this coin from a relative in their 90s and they were not a serious collector.

This was given to me as well, a small plastic container of 1960s half dollars.

I'm assuming there is silver content in them and that's why he collected them and just put them in a plastic container.

Looking at the rough conditions of the half dollars, bank notes and the single gold coin. They were collected by receiving change possibly around the 60s and 70s.

Edited July 9 by southern cross

[powermad5000]

You definitely have some silver in those halves. I would store them a little better as some seem to possibly have original surfaces and to keep them from getting further scratched by rubbing together. I would get an actual half dollar tube. You could find one on Wizard Coin Supply.

Also remember to only handle coins by their edges so you don't impart your skin oils onto them and introduce spotting and undesirable toning on them.

[southern cross]

And I thank all that have replied to my question.

I'm a comic collector and know that like the back of my hand. As for coins I'm oblivious.

[powermad5000]

On 7/8/2024 at 11:50 PM, southern cross said:

As for coins I'm oblivious.

That's ok. You are surely in the right place to tap into some knowledge and advice! 

[southern cross]

On 7/8/2024 at 9:50 PM, powermad5000 said:

You definitely have some silver in those halves. I would store them a little better as some seem to possibly have original surfaces and to keep them from getting further scratched by rubbing together. I would get an actual half dollar tube. You could find one on Wizard Coin Supply.

Also remember to only handle coins by their edges so you don't impart your skin oils onto them and introduce spotting and undesirable toning on them.

Thanks again, I'll have to look into that for long term storage for the half dollars.

My comics are in acid free Mylar so I understand now from your suggestion of only handling on the edges and securing them so they don't scratch and rub together (The coins not the comics)

Edited July 9 by southern cross

[Henri Charriere]

On 7/8/2024 at 2:21 PM, Coinbuf said:

Welcome to the forum, in the future it is best to start your own thread rather than tagging onto an existing one, less confusing that way.

I am afraid that won't be necessary.  On a companion thread on this Forum, the OP cited "hundreds of coins" he had -- since revised to "over 500 coins" in his latest piggy-backed post on this topic, and I strongly suggest every member within the sound of my voice respectfully withhold comment until each and every one of you has had an opportunity to examine that Topic, entitled: "Indian Head Cent 1877," with your undivided attention. If Coinbuf must delay his excursion by air and Powermad must postpone examination of questionable counterfeits, it will have been well worth their time. But, big BUT, before you lavish your attention on that "coin," Ask yourself ONE QUESTION: 

IF I HAD 500 COINS TO SHOWCASE ON AN INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM BEFORE A LIVE STUDIO AUDIENCE SPANNING COUNTLESS TIME ZONES SPREAD OVER SCORES OF COUNTRIES, WOULD I CHOOSE TO FEATURE THIS COIN (1877) AS REPRESENTATIVE OF THE COINS I HAVE AMASSED OVER A HALF CENTURY?

I shall utter not one more word.

 

Edited July 9 by Henri Charriere
Correct typo