Picked up at a yard sale 1 1

[TLC9088]

Hello I got 7 jefferson nickel books dated from 1938 to now which 2 are complete and 10 pennies books dated from 1909 to now or 1941 to nowadays some proof sets as well. all this I got from a yard sale and one of the books had a note for uncirculated pennies on it. There is a whole bunch from 59 to 84. But there is 2 pennies I am curious on cause I never seen them before 1984 pennies with state stamp on the observed side. And it also had 2 1943 Steel Pennies no mint mark that 1 is in pristine condition and 1 has mild corrosion on the edge and back side. Would it be worth getting graded??

[Coinbuf]

On 7/1/2024 at 2:49 PM, TLC9088 said:

Hello I got 7 jefferson nickel books dated from 1938 to now which 2 are complete and 10 pennies books dated from 1909 to now or 1941 to nowadays some proof sets as well. all this I got from a yard sale and one of the books had a note for uncirculated pennies on it. There is a whole bunch from 59 to 84. But there is 2 pennies I am curious on cause I never seen them before 1984 pennies with state stamp on the observed side. And it also had 2 1943 Steel Pennies no mint mark that 1 is in pristine condition and 1 has mild corrosion on the edge and back side. Would it be worth getting graded??

Welcome to the forum, the simple answer is no neither coin is worth the cost of having graded.   The counter stamped 84 cent would be considered as damaged and would not be graded or graded as a details coin.   These state counterstamps were used on many coins for various promotional products or sold as novelty items at truck stops.

From your photo the 43 cent looks like a typical reprocessed coin, if so it would also not be graded or receive a details grade.

Edited Monday at 10:10 PM by Coinbuf

[Sandon]

    Welcome to the NGC chat board.

     The 1943 cents appear to have been lightly circulated pieces that were "reprocessed" or "replated" to appear uncirculated, as many thousands were. Original pieces are frosty, not shiny like these. (On original pieces, the edges should be dull, as they were not zinc coated.) Replated pieces are worth well under a dollar each, as are pieces that are worn or corroded.

   The 1984 cent was privately counterstamped with the outline of a state for sale as a novelty in a gift shop. Coin collectors consider this a damaged coin with no numismatic value.

    Only a coin that is worth at least several hundred dollars is worth the considerable cost of submitting to a third-party grading service, which is what I assume you mean by "getting graded". Less valuable pieces may be enjoyably collected in albums like those you bought these in. Before you even think about submitting coins to grading services, it is essential that you be able to reasonably grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. Please see the following topic for basic print and online resources from which you may begin your education if you want to collect coins successfully:

   

[TLC9088]

Thanks for the information.Did the reprocessing of coins was that a private or from the mints cause the book i have all the lincoln pennies from 45 to 84 all look the same for condition wise. This is some of the collection I got. What years should I look for in pennies I have 1909 to 1989 in multiple books and for nickels it's 1938 to 1989. One book is a 2 inch binder completely full in order all jefferson nickels and varies from 1938 to 1988

[Coinbuf]

On 7/1/2024 at 4:09 PM, TLC9088 said:

Thanks for the information.Did the reprocessing of coins was that a private or from the mints cause the book i have all the lincoln pennies from 45 to 84 all look the same for condition wise. This is some of the collection I got. What years should I look for in pennies I have 1909 to 1989 in multiple books and for nickels it's 1938 to 1989. One book is a 2 inch binder completely full in order all jefferson nickels and varies from 1938 to 1988

 

Reprocessing was only done on the zinc coated steel cents of 1943.   The problem was that the zinc wore off very quickly and then the coins started to rust and look terrible which made them unsaleable.   To make them more palatable to buyers coins were plated (not by the US mint) to make them look shiny and pleasing which made them easier to sell.   The copper coins in your books are not commonly plated although some have for various reasons, but those will be a silver color.

[J P M]

Welcome,It looks like you got a nice collection of folders. There may be some nice coins but you should do some research before you take any coins out of the holes, Good luck on your numismatic adventure.  

[Sandon]

    The "Red Book" and the print and online price guides referred to in the topic I linked in my previous posts will identify the date and mint combinations and major varieties that could be valuable, depending on their condition. For starters, you can check out the NGC Price Guide at NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC and PCGS Photograde Online at https://www.pcgs.com/photograde. PCGS also has an online price guide. However, I strongly encourage you to purchase a current (2025) or recent edition "Red Book" and a print grading guide, which are better geared to the lower grade and value coins you are likely to find in these albums and folders.  (Coins bought at garage sales in albums and folders like these are usually childhood and casual collections that aren't worth much, but there are exceptions.) 

   The "key" to the Lincoln series is the 1909-S V.D.B. (worth at least hundreds of dollars even when well-worn), with the 1909-S, 1914-D and 1931-S also being worth at least high two figures well-worn. All "S" mints before 1916 and the 1922-D, 1924-D, and 1926-S also usually have at least some dollars in value. With other dates, it is a matter of condition. For many dates, even most uncirculated coins aren't worth much, but exceptional ones deserving very high numbers on the numerical grading scale and requiring much experience to grade are. 

   There aren't many valuable Jefferson nickels unless in extraordinary "Gem" uncirculated condition. The 1939-D and 1950-D would be worth $5 or more even worn, and the pieces dated 1942-1945 (including all pieces 1943-45) with an odd color and a large "P", "D", or "S" above the Monticello building on the reverse, are currently worth over $1.50 or more due to their silver content.

[powermad5000]

Hello and welcome!

I would get myself a copy of the Red Book of United States Coins, 2025. You can use the book to self evaluate the grade of each coin and then apply that to the listed values in the book to see at a simple baseline what you might have in the folders. Be aware, many times the reverse is what you might need to look at to better figure out grade from the guide in the book, so if you have to remove any coins to look at the reverses, be sure to either put on some clean gloves, or at a minimum handle the coins only by their edges. Do not touch the flat surfaces as you can impart your skin oils onto the coin which will set the stage for unsightly marking or opening the door to environmental damage. Also, store your folders in a cool, dry place that is temperature and humidity controlled.

Nice to have a jump start with these full albums!       Many collectors start from scratch.