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Anthony dollar
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16 posts in this topic

That happens in circulation.

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   Welcome to the NGC chat board.

   Please post clear, cropped photos of each full side of a coin about which you have questions.  It isn't helpful to magnify an image to such an extreme size.  Any significant variety can be identified at 5-7x magnification according to most experts.  I assume that you are referring to nicks that the coin acquired from contact with other coins and other objects while it was being distributed and in circulation.

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The photos are too out of focus to see much of anything other than what looks like damage from circulation. 

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Appreciate the updated photos which are not the best but I think good enough for me to provide an opinion. I want to say this coin was face up in a parking lot, and got ran over once (maybe twice if the car backed out of the spot the same way). Then it was found and picked up. There are too many of those tiny depressions with some of them a little deeper that unless someone who had a lot of time to waste intentionally putting them in there with a punch tool (still could be possible), that those were the leftover impressions from some very rough asphalt.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/1/2024 at 3:40 AM, SuzieqCoined said:

Agreed about the cropped photo. I tried uploading more but it is an issue. Thanks for being patient with me 

IMG_20240501_033657904.jpg

No one, least of all I, will give you a hard time about the photography. Coins are a nightmare of non-obvious problems of macrophotography and lighting, both of which can get expensive to do well. Some here love the advice “crop in close”. I do not ascribe to that school of thought. In digital photography, cropping throws away pixels. Blowing up a cropped photo just ruins whatever resolution was there. Sorry guys, it just does. Getting in close must be done with optics, not cropping digital pictures. Some people are sanguine about “Meh, it’s good enough.” That’s never been my thing. 

Edited by VKurtB
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On 5/3/2024 at 12:17 AM, VKurtB said:

. Some here love the advice “crop in close”. I do not ascribe to that school of thought. In digital photography, cropping throws away pixels. Blowing up a cropped photo just ruins whatever resolution was there. Sorry guys, it just does. Getting in close must be done with optics, not cropping digital pictures. 

It seems to me that using digital zoom to bring the coin closer before taking the picture also makes things fuzzier. 

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On 5/3/2024 at 8:18 AM, Just Bob said:

It seems to me that using digital zoom to bring the coin closer before taking the picture also makes things fuzzier. 

You are correct, sir. Digital zoom is ridiculous.

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On 5/3/2024 at 1:04 PM, VKurtB said:

You are correct, sir. Digital zoom is ridiculous.

Indeed. Use manual focus, and aim from an angle. That'll make it easy. For me at least.

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On 5/3/2024 at 1:52 PM, ThePhiladelphiaPenny said:

and aim from an angle

No. You should not have to do that. Keep the lens flat to the coins surface and play with the lighting. 

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On 5/3/2024 at 3:00 PM, ldhair said:

No. You should not have to do that. Keep the lens flat to the coins surface and play with the lighting. 

Hmm. I tend to have issues with that. It blocks out my lighting. You can't just zoom in so I need to get close.

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On 5/3/2024 at 2:00 PM, ldhair said:

Keep the lens flat to the coins surface and play with the lighting.

I do this on every coin except proof and prooflikes. The returning glare I encounter literally washes the coin out in the photo so I end up having to take photos of those types at a slight angle. Note, I said slight. Just enough so the light returning back into the lens doesn't turn the coin into a white mess. I am photographing my coins with a Google Pixel so it has its own things to get around, especially the auto focus which I turn off when taking coin pics.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/3/2024 at 4:55 PM, powermad5000 said:

I do this on every coin except proof and prooflikes. The returning glare I encounter literally washes the coin out in the photo so I end up having to take photos of those types at a slight angle. Note, I said slight. Just enough so the light returning back into the lens doesn't turn the coin into a white mess. I am photographing my coins with a Google Pixel so it has its own things to get around, especially the auto focus which I turn off when taking coin pics.

There is a type of lens that can handle this issue, but talk about EXPENSIVE! Several companies make lenses that can shift the optical axis off center. That way any reflection is off to the side while the planes of the film or sensor, lens, and subject are all parallel. I was very good at avoiding that expense by holding a black card over the end of the lens with a retaining ring, everything very deep deep black, to quash any reflections, and lighting around the edges with a translucent vellum tube surrounding the entire subject to diffuse the light. That gave me deep dark fields on the coins and brilliantly lit devices, with emphasis on the edges of the devices. 
 

The point of all this is that all these problems do have solutions, but none are easy, quick, or obvious. Good coin photography is hard, and it takes time, money, and experience. Anybody who thinks they have an easy solution is selling snake oil. Add to that my disdain for “it’s good enough”, and you see why I seldom take or show coin photos. 

Edited by VKurtB
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