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Thoughts please
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16 posts in this topic

image.thumb.jpg.30e888ccc60fbd37568d3e22aed20c5e.jpg
hey guys, I’m new to the error world end. I was just wondering if I could get some thoughts on this  thank you all so much In advance image.thumb.jpg.0d08686fc9df02189d6654e38bdaa570.jpg

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Welcome to the forum

As stated, just a stained cent, sometimes called coffee cup coins.   
If you are going to get into the error world of coins, suggest you do some studying on what constitutes.  
a real error and also study on how coins are minted. This will save you a lot of time road. Also you should.  
be able to distinguish between a variety and an error, they are too different things. Remember, it is only an.  
error if it happens during the striking of the coin, anything that happens after that is considered damage.   
Suggest reading some of the websites that EagieRJO has provided under “Basic Resources & Glossary”.  
at the top of this page. Also get yourself a Redbook for general references.

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Hello and welcome!

Your post states you are new to the error world end. I am reading that as you have been collecting coins for awhile then. If so, how long have you been a collector? I am just curious.

This modern cent you posted has no visible mint errors and has been damaged either by some type of chemical which stained the copper plating, or it has suffered some environmental damage (for example, was laying in a curb or parking lot in the water). It could have also been laying in a parking lot and since it is winter got exposed to road salt. However it happened, something like what you are seeing did not happen during the Mint process of striking coins. The coin itself was successfully fully struck and was properly copper plated as you can see some spots of the plating are unaffected.

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Thank you all for your input. I really appreciate it. I guess I should’ve started out saying that I am new to collective. Not just looking for errors. Just taking up a new hobby and trying to learn something new again all your input is really appreciated.

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That's absolutely fine. Thank you for the clarification. You are probably going to hear it echoed after my response right here that if you are beginning in this hobby, errors is not the place where you need to start. There is an entire separate area of learning when it comes to mint errors. You should begin your collecting by learning the basics and knowing when you see damage, and when you see a superior coin. I recommend you get a current copy of the Redbook of US Coins. Also get a copy of a book titled The Official ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins, 7th Edition. Read these books and get familiar with the basics as well as online resources such as exploring the US Mint and US Treasury websites. You can also shadow these forums and learn a lot from some of the top numismatists in the field.

It would also help you to seek out a local coin club, and attend some coin shows to talk to people to expand your knowledge. On these boards, we do however instruct people entering the hobby to avoid watching YouTube videos unless they are made by ANA, ANACS, CONECA, NGC, PCGS, CAC, or the US Mint or US Treasury. There are too many videos on there by self proclaimed experts who themselves have no real idea what they are talking about and making videos that get people to think they can find a million dollar coin in their cash register change which is simply untrue and false information.

Again, welcome to the hobby and have fun with it! And do not be afraid to ask any questions here. There is no dumb question. Only dumb people who won't ask a question in the first place to try to learn.

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I started collecting about 65 years ago, punching coins into Whitman folders.  Laid off a while then got back into it as an adult about 40 years ago.  Advice about local coin clubs is good as is attendance at local coin shows.  I got where I kind of specialized in US type coins (barring the really expensive ones) in decent grades and not being really nitpicky along with hard times tokens, civil war tokens, sales tax tokens, and whatever else struck my fancy.  Reason for joining NGC just now is I have what I hope is a Tribute Penny (denarius of Tiberias) - that's what it was represented to be about 25 or more years ago, anyway - that I'd like to get graded, authenticated, and slabbed.  Might do a few more as time goes on.

I saw the post about ANACS grading book.  Is Photograde still considered a good grading book?  I have grading books all the way back to Brown and Dunn but mostly used Photograde when I was buying stuff.

 

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On 1/19/2024 at 12:47 PM, Glynn K. said:

I started collecting about 65 years ago, punching coins into Whitman folders.  Laid off a while then got back into it as an adult about 40 years ago.  Advice about local coin clubs is good as is attendance at local coin shows.  I got where I kind of specialized in US type coins (barring the really expensive ones) in decent grades and not being really nitpicky along with hard times tokens, civil war tokens, sales tax tokens, and whatever else struck my fancy.  Reason for joining NGC just now is I have what I hope is a Tribute Penny (denarius of Tiberias) - that's what it was represented to be about 25 or more years ago, anyway - that I'd like to get graded, authenticated, and slabbed.  Might do a few more as time goes on.

I saw the post about ANACS grading book.  Is Photograde still considered a good grading book?  I have grading books all the way back to Brown and Dunn but mostly used Photograde when I was buying stuff.

 

Welcome to the forum, in the future it is best to start your own thread rather than hijacking another existing thread, far less confusing that way.   As to your question, yes Photograde is still a very good and relevant grading resource.

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On 1/19/2024 at 2:47 PM, Glynn K. said:

Is Photograde still considered a good grading book?  I have grading books all the way back to Brown and Dunn but mostly used Photograde when I was buying stuff.

   @Glynn K.--Welcome to the NGC chat board. For future reference, it is preferable to post your own questions as new topics instead of including them in replies to someone else's topic.

    I have been collecting U.S. coins for nearly 53 years and learned to grade from and remain fond of the Brown & Dunn and Photograde grading guides, which I still have and generally prefer to the inordinately complex and nuanced current grading standards. Unfortunately, they are now obsolete.

    First of all, these older grading guides largely do not deal with the grading of uncirculated ("Mint State") and proof coins, which now comprehend eleven different whole number numerical grades, as well as "plus" grades between the whole number grades and strike, surface and color qualifiers and are the focus of most grading issues nowadays. Small differences in the numerical grade or qualifier of an uncirculated coin can mean a substantial difference in its market value. Later editions of Photograde, such as my 1988 17th Edition, comment critically on the numerical grading of uncirculated coins but do not define standards for each grade.

   Additionally, the grading standards for circulated coins are also now more complex and have changed significantly. There are now at least two different numerical grades for circulated grades of "Good" and better, with Very Fine and About Uncirculated comprehending four different numerical grades each.  An Indian cent graded "F 12" or even "F 15" by a top tier grading service may not have a fully readable "LIBERTY" on the Indian's headband if other features are considered sufficiently detailed, nor will a "VF 20" Buffalo nickel necessarily have a visible tip of the Buffalo's horn nor a "VF 20" "Mercury" dime fully visible diagonal bands. 

   I'm surprised at @Coinbuf's response. I don't think that Photograde would be helpful in determining whether the grade of his uncirculated Lincoln cents or whether they should be designated "RD" or "RB".

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to coinbuf and sandon - thanks for the replies and the correcting comment about starting a new thread.   I agree grading has gotten way too complicated but for a guy like me it's pretty much n/a.  I don't have anything that would gain much value between MS 65 and MS 69 and just use + when I think I have a GOOD or VERY GOOD that's above average.  I consider myself a piddler who's in it for the fun and the learning opportunities.  I mostly used the "eyeball" method.

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On 1/19/2024 at 10:53 AM, powermad5000 said:

That's absolutely fine. Thank you for the clarification. You are probably going to hear it echoed after my response right here that if you are beginning in this hobby, errors is not the place where you need to start. There is an entire separate area of learning when it comes to mint errors. You should begin your collecting by learning the basics and knowing when you see damage, and when you see a superior coin. I recommend you get a current copy of the Redbook of US Coins. Also get a copy of a book titled The Official ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins, 7th Edition. Read these books and get familiar with the basics as well as online resources such as exploring the US Mint and US Treasury websites. You can also shadow these forums and learn a lot from some of the top numismatists in the field.

It would also help you to seek out a local coin club, and attend some coin shows to talk to people to expand your knowledge. On these boards, we do however instruct people entering the hobby to avoid watching YouTube videos unless they are made by ANA, ANACS, CONECA, NGC, PCGS, CAC, or the US Mint or US Treasury. There are too many videos on there by self proclaimed experts who themselves have no real idea what they are talking about and making videos that get people to think they can find a million dollar coin in their cash register change which is simply untrue and false information.

Again, welcome to the hobby and have fun with it! And do not be afraid to ask any questions here. There is no dumb question. Only dumb people who won't ask a question in the first place to try to learn.

Thank you so much I really do appreciate the info

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On 1/19/2024 at 4:52 PM, Sandon said:

   @Glynn K.--Welcome to the NGC chat board. For future reference, it is preferable to post your own questions as new topics instead of including them in replies to someone else's topic.

    

    First of all, these older grading guides largely do not deal with the grading of uncirculated ("Mint State") and proof coins, which now comprehend eleven different whole number numerical grades, as well as "plus" grades between the whole number grades and strike, surface and color qualifiers and are the focus of most grading issues nowadays....

   

   I'm surprised at @Coinbuf's response. I don't think that Photograde would be helpful in determining whether the grade of his uncirculated Lincoln cents or whether they should be designated "RD" or "RB".

[I believe the word you were looking for was not "comprehend," as written by you and emphasized by me above, but either "comprise" or "contemplate."]   🤔  

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On 1/19/2024 at 3:57 PM, Glynn K. said:

to coinbuf and sandon - thanks for the replies and the correcting comment about starting a new thread.   I agree grading has gotten way too complicated but for a guy like me it's pretty much n/a.  I don't have anything that would gain much value between MS 65 and MS 69 and just use + when I think I have a GOOD or VERY GOOD that's above average.  I consider myself a piddler who's in it for the fun and the learning opportunities.  I mostly used the "eyeball" method.

Really nothing wrong with that philosophy.  ;)

@Sandon you are correct that Photograde is largely useless for my needs, but that doesn't mean that it cannot be useful for others, especially for collectors of circulated coinage.

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On 1/19/2024 at 6:58 PM, Coinbuf said:

that doesn't mean that it [Photograde] cannot be useful for others, especially for collectors of circulated coinage.

   I only wish that years ago collectors had adamantly refused to purchase certified circulated coins that were overgraded by Photograde standards but, unfortunately, that ship has sailed.

On 1/19/2024 at 6:25 PM, Henri Charriere said:

[I believe the word you were looking for was not "comprehend," as written by you and emphasized by me above, but either "comprise" or "contemplate."]

   One of the definitions of "comprehend" in My American Heritage Dictionary is "[t]o take in, include, or embrace; comprise".  An old Webster's Dictionary includes a definition for "comprehend" as "[t]o contain, to embrace, to include".

   I apologize to the author of this topic for its going so far off its original subject.

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