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What Tier is for coins before 1965?
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10 posts in this topic

1.  Trying to figure out with tier is for American coins before 1965? 

 

2.  If I pick modern tier for my coin after 1965 how do I know the max value of the coin it says $3000. 

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On 9/3/2023 at 10:07 AM, Erin33 said:

1.  Trying to figure out with tier is for American coins before 1965? 

There are several tiers that you could use, there is no way for anyone to answer your question without knowing what you have to submit and some photos so we can assess the condition and determine a reasonable value.   The tiers are all biased on the values of coins being submitted, it sounds like you have no idea what you have or the value of the coin(s) you wish to submit.   If you are uncomfortable sharing that here you may want to take your coins into a local coin shop and see if the owner there can help you with values, but somehow you need that information before you can choose a tier.

On 9/3/2023 at 10:07 AM, Erin33 said:

2.  If I pick modern tier for my coin after 1965 how do I know the max value of the coin it says $3000. 

It would be very unlikely that you have any modern coins that would exceed a value of 3K.   But as with my answer to your first question we would need more information to be able to fully answer your question.   Also, you need to include at least a rough value estimate for each coin you submit on the submission form.   I would highly suggest that you review the list of authorized dealers on the main NGC site to see if you can find a dealer local to you and see if that dealer is willing to help you put together your first submission.

Edited by Coinbuf
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    If your coin is dated before 1965, you may submit it under the "Economy" tier if its market value in the grade range you expect it to receive should not exceed $300, whose grading fee is $23 per coin. If such value is likely to be more than $300 but not more than $3,000, it should be submitted under the "Standard" tier for a $40 per coin grading fee. There are higher and more expensive tiers for coins of even greater values. See NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com). The higher tiers also have faster turn-around times. 

   If NGC finds a coin to be worth significantly more than the highest allowed value for the tier in which you submitted it, you will be charged the grading fee for the tier in which it should have been submitted. (This happened to me once.)

   Frankly, if you don't have sufficient knowledge about your coins and the grades that they would likely achieve to determine reasonable values for your coins, you have no business submitting them to a grading service without professional advice. You should either consult with and submit them through an NGC authorized dealer who has advised you that their submission would be worthwhile or refrain from submitting coins until you have gained sufficient knowledge and experience.  To locate a dealer, see Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com).

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I am not uncomfortable with sharing any pictures. I just have no idea what I’m doing. All I know is that I want to submit coins and I have no one to talk to you but you guys. Give me like an hour to post the photos. Thank you.

Edited by Erin33
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I applaud your entrance into this hobby, and it gives me hope of its continuance!

What you should understand, however, is that submitting coins to a TPG such as NGC is a very expensive endeavor so you will need to learn how to self grade coins and take that self grading to cross reference in the price guides what you have before submitting a single thing to NGC. If I may, I will give you an idea of my last NGC submission. I sent in 38 coins for grading. The 38 coins were mostly Economy, but there was also some Modern, and a few NCS conservation coins in there. My total tab with NGC was $1,086.89.

Please get yourself the ANA Grading Standards book. It is on the 7th edition, but for someone starting out, buy the 6th edition. The 7th edition did not have any critical additions so the 6th edition will suffice and you can get this on eBay for less than $20. This book will save you THOUSANDS in grading fees!

You put a lot of coins into this post, so I will begin by saying this. As a rule of thumb, anything in the Modern tier (1965 to present) will need to be in the top end of the grading spectrum MS 66 and higher for it to be worth submitting. Some of the 60's and 70's coins may be an exception to this, but a Modern tier holder even in a large submission in the end will cost you about $35-$50 when it is all said and done.

Your W quarters are W quarters any more than P, S, or D are. The exception is the Tallgrass Prairie with the V75 privvy mark. That coin may only grade MS 65 so at resale, it could be a break even. I am not sure if the value of these will continue to fade as time goes on, now that the craze over them being in circulation is over and they have pretty much all been found. Your 1959 quarter seems to be a proof but not even a cameo proof. I would say it is worth between $30-60 so in the economy tier it would be a break even at the sale point. Your 1969 and 1969 D Lincoln Memorial cents while in great shape and red in color, would only be worth between $15-25 as I believe both would grade out as MS 65 RD (even MS 66 RD only adds limited value) so in the Modern tier, these cents might not even be worth the holder they are in. Basically speaking, the plastic is worth more than the coin inside. Your steel cents all look to be plated as they have an unnatural shine to them. They would most likely be returned ungraded as Plated, or at best return as Details - Altered Surface. These steel cents need to be graded MS 66 just to make them worth putting them into the slab as once again any lower grades result in the plastic being worth more than the coin.

Of what you pictured here, I would only submit the Privvy Quarter and the 59 proof. I am sure there are others in this forum who will tell you that you have nothing of enough value to submit for TPG grading. This is why I say you need to learn self grading.

 

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