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Are any of these worth grading?
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13 posts in this topic

I am doing better with close to/or uncirculated coins. :takeit:I like older coins tho. 1880-1979. Odd, isn't it? My aim is to try to get rid of these to get possibly graded coins or I have found a trusted seller I could maybe win one at a good price then ship in for grading. 

Another question is selling for silver content. Does the buyer give you the value? " True value" example right now silver is $ 23.43 My understanding is, add your face value, multiply it by the cost of current silver is that correct? Who buys them? I have so many quarters, dimes, and half dollars and again don't know how to proceed and get some cash in to go find other coins. I won't part with my Morgans for a melt value, but I do want to get other coins and have lots from 1964 and before. Any advice on this? Do they really melt them? 

 

Below top the left to right

1902 no mint mark (off center)? 

1905 no mint mark

1914 S

1908 D

1909 no mint mark

 

IMG-0304.jpg

IMG-0305.jpg

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Check out this website if you want some help figuring the "melt" value of silver coins: http://coinapps.com/silver/coin/calculator/

Most dealers would probably give you slightly less than melt for junk silver. Ebay might be a better route, but I haven't done the math on whether the premiums people pay covers the auction fees.

Edit: Just to clarify, without knowing what you have, it's hard to know if it's worth more than spot. But most of those pre-64 dimes, quarters and halves you mentioned probably do fall into that junk silver category. 

 

I agree with @Simple Collector on the assessment of the pictured coins.

Edited by AdamWL
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Definately not worthy of grading. If I were in your shoes I would buy some 2x2 cardboard flips. They are very cheap and they will help preserve the coin a little better. You can also buy storage boxes that are made for the 2x2 flips you can store them in and keep them safe and keep up with them. Most heaivly circulated silver coins arent worth grading. There are a few exceptions but I wont go into that now. The coins pictured in this post and the 1956 quarters in the other post would be great coins to put in coin flips. 

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Thanks everyone I didn't think so but scared to make any decision. I am going to get all together and just ask, and always in doubt! Then I am going to go get the melt value at least I will get something. I have bought a couple and will show when I get them.

 

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On 2/16/2023 at 9:19 PM, lcourtney123 said:

Thanks everyone I didn't think so but scared to make any decision. I am going to get all together and just ask, and always in doubt! Then I am going to go get the melt value at least I will get something. I have bought a couple and will show when I get them.

You need to segment the coins....find out what the coin types are....then which ones are worn and not worth much (make sure it's not an ultra-rare coin that is still valuable in a low grade; this is unlikely but you never know)....which coins are in decent shape and worth a slight premium to metal content...and which coins have big numismatic value (coin in great shape and/or it's a rare, valuable coin).

If you have lot of silver (maybe some gold ?) coins and are going to get spot silver or a bit less and then use the proceeds for a NICE coin to start your collection, we can offer suggestions.

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If you had a Red Book, you would be less afraid. You would be able to look up the issue (meaning date/mint combo), see the relative values (high retail) across grades, and answer your own question. Not that I'm discouraging you from asking, but I hate to think of someone being afraid.

The more sought-after errors are listed in the price tables, so that will alert you. Let us take the nicest of those Barbs, the 1902. No mint mark. Now my red book is way out of date, but it will serve the purpose. I look up in Dimes and come to a stop at the Barbers. I see that the 1902 has a much higher mintage than 02-S or 02-O, and that the S is not exactly expensive but is worth neighborhood of triple the Philadephia coin--and that's in G-4. I see that there are no well-known errors in this issue, nothing like the three-legged Buffalo nickel or the 42/1 Merc overdate, etc. I see that this coin's high retail was about $8 in VF when my version came out; jumped to $110 for MS-60.

So what that tells me is that unless I think this dime is uncirculated (which it manifestly is not, not even close), spending $50 or so to have it put in plastic makes no financial sense. It might make numismatic sense if you just loved that coin for some reason, but you'd never make that $50 back in value unless it were up above MS-63 ($170). Even in that case, well, it's questionable. Mine gives it $500 for a PF-63--if you had one of those, yeah, most people would say that's a good way to keep it PF-63 and make sure it really gets that grade, perhaps better. But it manifestly is not. The Red Book has basic grading information and that part would certainly tell you so.

This is why people nag everyone to get a Red Book. It can bridge the gap between "omg could I be sitting on treasure" and "I should not spend too much time on this one." It's where fear goes away.

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