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1998 D proof???

15 posts in this topic

Modern proofs are struck on special dies in San Francisco. While your coin has a very mirrored finish, that's not the only defining characteristic of a proof strike. There would be no blemishes such as the small white spots across the fields of the coin, and none of the small dings and scratches from handling like in front of Lincoln's mouth. Additionally, there are differences in the devices between business strike (circulation) and proof strike coins; I don't know offhand what they are for memorial cents.

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17 minutes ago, Beginner 76 said:

Wow. Interested. So what should I do with them


Depends entirely on what you're interested in! Some people collect for value; some for completeness; some for errors; some for designs or engravers. Some people seem to collect based on "oooh, neat coin!" and then there's the ones who try to collect the worst possible TPG'd example of each coin.

A couple of things to consider with modern cents: the zinc core is just awful and will corrode if it is exposed at all. I don't see anything on the coin pictured, but you can see other coins here where someone has said plating bubbles. IMO, that's corrosion already starting under the copper plate. Don't keep those. If you place a modern cent in a coin folder it will tone to brown over time. The more protection from air you give the coin (think 2x2s or capsules) the more slowly it will tone. Don't handle it with bare hands, use disposable cotton or linen gloves.

I also dunk my coins in acetone to remove environmental contaminants. Acetone dunk for 5 mins (no rubbing) then rinse with distilled water then a quick dip in fresh acetone. It will help cents tone evenly across the entire coin as opposed to the splotches and fingerprints that everyone loves so much.

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1 minute ago, Beginner 76 said:

Thanks for your advice. I'm wondering the acetone would damage the coin. I have hundreds of these. Some has no dings , scratch.. should I send it to grade???

Acetone cannot damage metal; it is an organic solvent and will only remove organic material. It can however damage YOU so use it only in very well ventilated conditions, and try not to breathe it in.

There are people who claim it damaged coins; they're wrong. What it can do is remove organic material that was hiding pre-existing damage, often environmental toning so a coin can look splotchy. It can also deposit anything in solution within it as it evaporates very quickly; this is what happens when someone says acetone created a haze on their coin. The distilled water rinse and dip in clean acetone are to prevent that from happening.

Grading is a bit of a personal question. Most people seem to only send coins to grade when they're worth more than $100; that's because when you add up shipping both ways plus the grading fees, it wouldn't be worth sending worth less than that amount. There's a handy tool on our host's site (other major TPG has one too) that has a census of the number of coins they've certified and a price guide; here it is for your coin: https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/lincoln-cents-memorial-reverse-1959-2008-pscid-100/1998-d-1c-msrd-coinid-13139

For cents, toning makes a major difference - this is for red. I don't judge color by picture, but red is the best in terms of value. As you can see, the coin would need to be graded MS RD 68 to be over that $100 threshold. The pictured coin looks extremely lightly circulated; I don't like grading by picture but I'd put that at AU58 with a shot at MS61 on a good day. Taking the higher grade, it's worth less than $7.00.

If it were mine, I'd acetone it and put it in a folder or a flip.

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There is a difference in "proof" and "prooflike." "Proof" describes a method of manufacturing - polished dies, polished planchets, higher striking pressure, multiple strikes. There are exceptions, of course: matte proofs, satin proofs, etc, but that describes in general the normal method of minting a brilliant proof.

"Prooflike" describes a certain look on a business strike coin: it looks like a proof. It may be the result of new or resurfaced dies, or possibly the use of an unused or left over proof die to strike a business strike coin.

If I were going to throw out a guess, I would say that your coin was struck using a new die pair.

But, that is just a guess.

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What's the tube made of? If it is plastic be very careful; PVC plays hell with coins. Also, round would be better as it gives less room for coins to move against each other. I don't use tubes but I know many others do.

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24 minutes ago, Conder101 said:

The square tubes are typically made of polyethylene which is safe for coins.  (The round tubes used nowadays are polystyrene which is also safe.)

I have some round tube made in China (I didn't look) so are those safe also???

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