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Can you tell the difference between a 69 and a 70?

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The difference is so minor, if there is a difference at all, that paying a big premium for a 70 is pretty foolish IMO. The main reason to do is to show off on the registry.

 

I would not buy a PR-70 cent on a bet. The chances of coin groing a spot is just too great. Look at the PCGS 1963 PR-70 DCam that someone paid $40K for a couple years a go. The coin started to turn, and before it was done the REAL value was down to about $5. for $ 40,000. PCGS eventually bought the piece back to avoid further embarrassement.

 

Of course so far as I'm concerned, there is not a 1963 cent on the planet that is worth $40K.

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I think I need to reformat the question.What I really wanted to know was for the people who buy 70 coins can they tell the difference from a 69?Since this is the registry forum sounds like a natural question.

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Look at the PCGS 1963 PR-70 DCam that someone paid $40K for a couple years a go. The coin started to turn, and before it was done the REAL value was down to about $5.

 

I'm not convinced the coin didn't look like that when slabbed. PCGS let a LOT of sub-par PF70s thru when they were scared about ICG. Also, when the question was posed to Rick T. who sold the coin about what it looked like when he sold it, he failed to answer. This question was posed more than once and he answered many other questions in the threads, but continually failed to answer this one.

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Can you tell the difference between a 69 and a 70?

 

For Mint State coins it is much easier to tell the difference. A quick rotation in good light should reveal a tiny mark on the MS69. I've found that this mark is usually on the top of one of the letters and is often overlooked by people focused on the fields and main focal element of the design.

 

For Proof coins, it is much more difficult and can be awfully difficult in a slab. A PF69 will usually have a small hairline (check the cameoed relief for the hairline as this is often overlooked), a tiny field tick that can blend into the fields well, or perhaps a tiny spot of the cameo that isn't fully frosted.

 

Are MS/PF70 coins worth the difference over the price of a MS/PF69? Not at all...unless I'm the seller. devil.gif

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I only own (1) PR70DCAM and it has a minute tick on the edge of the right-hand obverse field. Based on this and comparing this coin to many PR69DCAM coins that I own, I'm not sure that I can tell the difference, unless they are hairlined.

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I actually use to think that you couldnt tell the difference and it was just a matter of plastic and registry competition that made people to decide to purchase a 70 instead of a 69. I have no experience with MS 69s & 70s but as for proofs, I own a few NGC and PCGS coins.

 

While the difference between the 2 just doesnt justify a huge premium, and it really doesnt justify any premium for coins minted after 1992, it might for the earlier ones. Almost all the most recent proofs are nearly perfect due to the mint's refined processes/packaging.

 

I have mostly 79 & 81 proof PCGS coins and I can tell you, there is a difference between the 69s and the 70s. While its a small difference, it is one you can notice with the naked eye. I didn't pay a huge premium so I'm fine with the price of those 70s. I wouldnt expect a perfect coin though. The minting/packaging process was different to some extent and those coins have sat in mint holders for 20+ years. So be very discriminating when buying 70s. There are some that arent and some that are.

 

Michael

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Ah, but that's the whole point. MS or PR-70 is supposed to be a PERFECT coin. For that reason I don't think any real 70s exist for the VAST majority of issues. Handing out 70s can boil down to politics, and those who are willing to pay for politics are welcome to do so. It's SURE not my thing.

 

To me the registry is a diversion; it's not a way of life.

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