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Slab cleaning / polishing

16 posts in this topic

PCGS slabs polish up nicely with PlastX plastic polish (available at an auto parts store). NGC slabs are harder to polish. Some come out nice with PlastX, some hairline (may need a finer grit like Novus 2 or 1), and some never look right, depending on the age of the holder. Best thing to do is get them reholdered in the latest scratch resistant holders, then put them in sleeves.

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I've had good results using Brasso. The label on the can even says it's good for removing scratches from acrylic watch crystals. Some use toothpaste which has a mild abrasive. It works but I find it to be too messy but it does leave your slab minty fresh. Your local automotive store has several products for removing scratches from plastic.

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Do not use acetone!

 

I had a older PCGS slab that had some sticker glue on the back. Water wasn't taking the glue off. So I tried acetone. The acetone certainly took off the glue, but it also attacked the surface of the plastic, leaving it with a texture and look like it had been sanded by very fine sanding paper. I didn't think the acetone would affect the plastic like that.

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Does "Auto Zone" or one of the other auto parts chains have these in stock?

 

I would like to see every coin shop to offer slab repair service as well as supply availability of needed products for collectors, good will goes a long way in gaining customers.

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Do not use acetone!

 

I had a older PCGS slab that had some sticker glue on the back. Water wasn't taking the glue off. So I tried acetone. The acetone certainly took off the glue, but it also attacked the surface of the plastic, leaving it with a texture and look like it had been sanded by very fine sanding paper. I didn't think the acetone would affect the plastic like that.

 

Acetone dissolves most plastics. That's specifically why it is used to remove PVC (a plastic). There are some chemistry grade plastics that can handle acetone, but in general you should use acetone only with glassware and never anywhere on slabs.

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I just went through all my NGC holdered coins and tried to polish out scratches with PlastX. Ended up only shipping two boxes full for reholder. With shipping charges the Scratch Resistant holders cost about $15 each.

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Do not use acetone!

 

I had a older PCGS slab that had some sticker glue on the back. Water wasn't taking the glue off. So I tried acetone. The acetone certainly took off the glue, but it also attacked the surface of the plastic, leaving it with a texture and look like it had been sanded by very fine sanding paper. I didn't think the acetone would affect the plastic like that.

i had the same results on a coin. never again
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To remove just sticker glue, use goo-gone. It works real well.

 

 

I read that WD-40 works well but I've never tried it. Don't spray it directly on the slab---spray it on a tissue or paper towel and them use it to wipe the slab.

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For anyone who has a sticker on any plastic surface, or really any surface for that matter, take a blow dryer to the sticker before you try to remove it... warm up that goo and it will peel right off.

 

I have had almost perfect success with this little trick my wife taught me.

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I went out and bought some PlastX tonight. My first test was on a slab that wasn't in need of too much TLC and contained a lessor valued coin in case things went horribly wrong. :o It worked well and the resulting appearance was definitely improved.

 

My next test was on a slab that had more marks and scuff marks than the first and held a better coin. While some of the scuff marks looked better afterward, it didn't cure all of them and some of the more annoying marks didn't go poof.

 

The last test was on the slab that caused me to make this post to begin with. It holds a gorgeous toned proof Jefferson but the marks on both sides are small but extensive and distracting. While the surface certainly improved after the PlastX treatment virtually none of the marks went away. :cry:

 

So, it's either try another product that has a more intense impact to the plastic without actually damaging it, or send the slabs that are too heavily marked into the slab factory for a do-over.

 

Thanks for the suggestions

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I had some pretty ratty ones that I polished up real nice with an acrylic scratch remover kit. The one I had was from my aquarium supplies, but I imagine they are sold for other uses. There are numerous different grits of sandpaper. You start off with a rough one, then progressively go finer. The final touch is a liquid polish. Some of the slabs had bad scratches and pits - all look great now.

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