Want awesome photos

[Rawzone]

I am trying GIMP but i got a problem with filling out the background.

i dont got the menu on the right side with the layers.

how do i get it to display

[Guest Golddog3]

What is a good moderately priced copy stand (make/model)? What lighting works better, CFL daylight, sunshine or a Ottlite that has a full light spectrum (possibly the same thing as the two CFLs mentioned)?

[Coindude]

So the macro focusing rail is rather like the bellows system. I like the one you have a lot as it seems very sturdy. I went and took a look at a lot of different systems on B&H and Adorama and yes of course ebay. I was hesitant of the bellows as they seem to be made of a lot of plastic and I would rather not drop my macro lens! Also, the two rail systems that I've seen aren't made much of metal and I like your system as it seems very sturdy and again, I'd rather not drop my lens or my camera although I wouldn't mind upgrading my camera already but the one I have is rather adequate. Currently on a Canon 550D otherwise known as the T2i.

 

At any rate, I truly appreciate all the information you've shared as I hold your photography skills in very high regard and consider you in the upper top 5 I believe we've had this discussion before!

 

 

[robec1347]

I use pretty much the same setup as Ray and Brandon.

 

There may be a slight variance among the three of us.

I have the microscope stand with the bellows on a focusing rail.

 

Small footprint on the desktop is such an advantage. Another huge advantage is tethering the camera to the computer. Focusing is so much easier looking at the monitor as opposed through the viewfinder with one eye.

[newprepper]

I am trying GIMP but i got a problem with filling out the background.

i dont got the menu on the right side with the layers.

how do i get it to display

 

do a layers tutorial search for gimp

[messydesk]

Here's a close-up of my focusing rail. It's oriented so that the rarely used lateral positioning is controlled by the more coarse rack and pinion. The longitudinal positioning is done by the much more precise screw drive. One full revolution is about 2-3 mm. If you can find a 2-way rail that his this precision, go for it.

 

An alternative to a focusing rail is a focusing stage, where the platform holding the coin can have its height adjusted by similarly precise means.

 

A bellows system is a little different, as it adjusts the distance between the lens and the camera using similar controls.

[Coindude]

I use this copystand, nice and sturdy and less than $150 new.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/438353-REG/Dot_Line_RS_CS920_RS_CS920_Copy_Stand.html

[messydesk]

Here's a close-up of my focusing rail. It's oriented so that the rarely used lateral positioning is controlled by the more coarse rack and pinion. The longitudinal positioning is done by the much more precise screw drive. One full revolution is about 2-3 mm. If you can find a 2-way rail that his this precision, go for it.

 

An alternative to a focusing rail is a focusing stage, where the platform holding the coin can have its height adjusted by similarly precise means.

 

A bellows system is a little different, as it adjusts the distance between the lens and the camera using similar controls.

Oops. I guess it would have been nice to include the picture.

 

[Coindude]

Well, I pulled the trigger for one of those for $114. I hope it will give me the ease of focusing I've been looking for, and I think it will. I'm sure there will be an adjustment period, but I think in the long run, it will be worth it.

[robec1347]

Well, I pulled the trigger for one of those for $114. I hope it will give me the ease of focusing I've been looking for, and I think it will. I'm sure there will be an adjustment period, but I think in the long run, it will be worth it.

It won't take long to adjust at all. The first coin will sell you on it, especially if you are able to view the adjustment on your computer monitor.

[Coindude]

Bob, I do have the ability to tether, but without the fine control I found it just as easy to look through the view finder. I keep the setup on a low table but I find myself standing for hours on end when I have a lot of coins to image. I think this will save me time and wear and tear on those tootsies!

 

I'll let you know how it goes but I think this will be the most awesome addition to my photography repertoire since the addition of my 100mm macro lens.

[therealanaconda-migration]

Coin photography has sure come a long way. However, image size appropriateness is still apparently a contested topic.

 

Could the original poster(s) reduce the size of their images so I could read this thread in less than two hours by not having to wag left and right with the bar down at the bottom of my screen?

[robec1347]

Bob, I do have the ability to tether, but without the fine control I found it just as easy to look through the view finder. I keep the setup on a low table but I find myself standing for hours on end when I have a lot of coins to image. I think this will save me time and wear and tear on those tootsies!

 

I'll let you know how it goes but I think this will be the most awesome addition to my photography repertoire since the addition of my 100mm macro lens.

 

Not only your tootsies. After spending some time stooped over the viewfinder my back wouldn't straighten up without using a pulley.

 

This will be a great addition for you.

[Coindude]

Yea Bob, I have to admit, I have had a sore back from time to time. I used to have the setup on the floor... and sitting on the floor.... going numb... then shifting to the knees... now that was no fun at all!

 

And Adrian, I agree that some of the images are too large for the screen. I think the max I use for a single shot is 800x800. For double matted coins I use 1000x whatever is required. I will have to admit that Brandon was the reason I decided to even start to image coins. That dude was a magician behind the lens. Haven't seen him around in a while, hope he's doing well.

[Rawzone]

I use this copystand, nice and sturdy and less than $150 new.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/438353-REG/Dot_Line_RS_CS920_RS_CS920_Copy_Stand.html

 

Nice copystand.

in denmark the are soooo expensive.

try looking at the link you posted and do shipping cost to Denmark

and in denmark they cost about 350$ for a cheap one..

 

I think im gonna start with something homemade

it is going to be fun because i got 10 thumbs

[newprepper]

I use this copystand, nice and sturdy and less than $150 new.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/438353-REG/Dot_Line_RS_CS920_RS_CS920_Copy_Stand.html

 

Nice copystand.

in denmark the are soooo expensive.

try looking at the link you posted and do shipping cost to Denmark

and in denmark they cost about 350$ for a cheap one..

 

I think im gonna start with something homemade

it is going to be fun because i got 10 thumbs

 

You might consider purchasing a copystand and just have them ship you the important part to keep the shipping cost down. It will reduce size and weight. (and cost)

[Rawzone]

Just got my macro lens with the mail today.

 

My first photo.

What do you think.. is it way off?

 

 

 

 

 

[newprepper]

Just got my macro lens with the mail today.

 

My first photo.

What do you think.. is it way off?

 

 

 

 

 

You tell us, we can't see your coin in hand, is the collor an accurate representation?

[Rawzone]

i think its ok. but i always think that coins look better in hand.

i got a bit surprised that it looked like some piece of wood on the photo.

more even color in hand.

but what about light and focus?

[newprepper]

I'm still learning myself, I think it looks good. But the key is accurate representation. It should look better in hand, try selling one that looks worse in hand and see what problems you end up with

[messydesk]

i think its ok. but i always think that coins look better in hand.

i got a bit surprised that it looked like some piece of wood on the photo.

more even color in hand.

but what about light and focus?

Good start. To help visualize what the coin is going to look like before you take the picture, close one eye and don't move the coin. As the luster will have no depth and will not move around, the coin will look a little more "dead." As for your picture, I'd move the lights in tighter and at a higher angle. You have a couple dark areas, like Lincoln's coat, that need to be lit up, and this will do it. You also have hot spots on the top of Lincoln's head that need less light.

 

The woodgrain look on early Lincolns is common, and some collectors prefer it over evenly colored coins.

[Rawzone]

im really having a hard time with my toned coins.

im trying to tilt the coin a bit as discribed on the website but im not getting any good pictures.

 

if i get color in the picture the coin i tilted to much and focus is bad.

i cant even get close to your pictures of toned coins.

 

what im i missing

[CoinZip]

im really having a hard time with my toned coins.

im trying to tilt the coin a bit as discribed on the website but im not getting any good pictures.

 

if i get color in the picture the coin i tilted to much and focus is bad.

i cant even get close to your pictures of toned coins.

 

what im i missing

 

 

I shoot different than everyone else. But here is something to try.

 

1. Turn off your lights, only light on is the light in the center of your ceiling.

2. set iso to 100

3. set to A (priority Aperture)

4. everything else to auto

5. use a tripod and use 10 sec timer.

 

Try shooting straight on if you don't like the colors start to change the angle.

 

I also do not own a Macro lens.

 

What happens with the above setting is due to the lack of light, your shutter will stay open a lot longer to let in more light. My shutter stays open for 2-5 seconds depending on the coin. Shiny coins less time, dark toned coins more time.

 

 

Edited to add: I shoot on a sheet of plain white paper background, I would think a 18% grey card would be better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest Golddog3]

Do any of you use kendo extension tubes instead of a macro lens? Do you use it with a 50/55mm or a zoom lens?

[e1cnr]

I think you should try your 1909-S on some different background colors - copper pics different than silver - try a white and a light yellow (copy or colored paper over gray shown) and see if any different.

 

Color seen is due to angle of reflections from light source - see if you can move them up or down and/or imcrease/decrease intensity (closer/further away)