My next submission!

[coinsandmedals]

I have a good amount of coins that I would love to send, but realistically I don’t have the budget to send them all, so instead I have to be very picky! I have selected these four to be sent off next, and I was just wondering to see if you guys think they are worthy of sending in. Sorry for the poor pictures but I’m currently at college and the lighting in my apartment is terrible, and I haven’t had the time to invest in a good camera, or lamp for that matter. Also if anyone can tell me how to post pictures instead of links from photo bucket it would be greatly appreciated!

1938 proof Wheat:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins011.jpg

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins012.jpg

1951 proof Franklin:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins007.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins008.jpg

1956 proof type 1 Franklin:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins013.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins014.jpg

1938 proof Jefferson:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins009.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins010.jpg

 

[toyman-migration]

good luck with your submission, hope you get great grades.

I have a good amount of coins that I would love to send, but realistically I don’t have the budget to send them all, so instead I have to be very picky! I have selected these four to be sent off next, and I was just wondering to see if you guys think they are worthy of sending in. Sorry for the poor pictures but I’m currently at college and the lighting in my apartment is terrible, and I haven’t had the time to invest in a good camera, or lamp for that matter. Also if anyone can tell me how to post pictures instead of links from photo bucket it would be greatly appreciated!

1938 proof Wheat:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins011.jpg

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins012.jpg

1951 proof Franklin:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins007.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins008.jpg

1956 proof type 1 Franklin:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins013.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins014.jpg

1938 proof Jefferson:

http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins009.jpg http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u518/coinsandmedals/ngccoins010.jpg

[MarkFeld]

Proof coin images do not lend themselves to meaningful grade guesses.

 

Those coins are quite common and do not appear to be cameo or ultra cameo or of superlative quality. Based on the odds, they will probably not grade high enough to be worth the cost of grading and postage.

[coinsandmedals]

Thanks for the input Mark and toyman, I know the coins are not of exceptional quality however I don’t have much in them and I’m trying to fill/upgrade my preexisting sets. The pictures are rather poor, the 1938 wheat is one of the nicest raw examples that I have looked at. The picture doesn’t really show it but it is blast red, which is the only standard that I hold my proof wheat cents to, I have RB and BN’s but they just don’t really appeal to me, to the extent that I didn’t even put them in the registry. If I get even a proof 65 grade on any of the above coins I will still be sitting well financially speaking, but I’m still learning how to grade and I have an idea as to what I think they will grad and getting the coins back graded will help in my learning process.

[Coinbuf]

Impossible to guess on the grades as your pics are of the coins in the flips, I dont follow the other series but the 38 wheat sells in the $175-$200 range in PR65RD. Good luck with the submission.

[MarkFeld]

Thanks for the input Mark and toyman, I know the coins are not of exceptional quality however I don’t have much in them and I’m trying to fill/upgrade my preexisting sets. The pictures are rather poor, the 1938 wheat is one of the nicest raw examples that I have looked at. The picture doesn’t really show it but it is blast red, which is the only standard that I hold my proof wheat cents to, I have RB and BN’s but they just don’t really appeal to me, to the extent that I didn’t even put them in the registry. If I get even a proof 65 grade on any of the above coins I will still be sitting well financially speaking, but I’m still learning how to grade and I have an idea as to what I think they will grad and getting the coins back graded will help in my learning process.

 

My guess is that you would be better of buying already-certified examples and saving your grading fees. Even if you have zero in your coins, that does not necessarily mean it makes sense to pay to get them graded.

[mkman123]

Goodluck and let us know what grades ngc give them!!

[coinsandmedals]

I understand what you are trying to convey Mark, but I’m not as interested in the money aspect as I am trying to learn. I have looked at so many certified coins, and unless the grade is covered, you won’t get the same effect as what I’m trying to do. I know you’re trying to prevent me from making a big mistake and I truly appreciate it, I know I will make mistakes; we all do but that’s just part of the learning process. If I were purchasing high dollar items I wouldn’t buy them raw, they would have to be graded by NGC or PCGS. Basically I’m trying to build up my skills with what’s readily available that you can’t really lose too much on. Once again Mark thank you for your advice it’s very valued, I have been reading through the boards and I know that you really do try to help. It’s going to be a good while before these coins are sent in and even a longer time before I get them back but I will post the grades ASAP, thanks mkman123.

[jerseycat10]

I understand what you are trying to convey Mark, but I’m not as interested in the money aspect as I am trying to learn. I have looked at so many certified coins, and unless the grade is covered, you won’t get the same effect as what I’m trying to do. I know you’re trying to prevent me from making a big mistake and I truly appreciate it, I know I will make mistakes; we all do but that’s just part of the learning process. If I were purchasing high dollar items I wouldn’t buy them raw, they would have to be graded by NGC or PCGS. Basically I’m trying to build up my skills with what’s readily available that you can’t really lose too much on. Once again Mark thank you for your advice it’s very valued, I have been reading through the boards and I know that you really do try to help. It’s going to be a good while before these coins are sent in and even a longer time before I get them back but I will post the grades ASAP, thanks mkman123.

 

I actually agree with you and Mark in this circumstance.

 

On one hand... it is probably financially responsible to buy already-certified coins, as Mark recommended, to let someone else incur the grading fees.

 

On the other hand, if you want to make one of your first submissions, it is probably not wise to buy a handful of expensive, raw coins, without having a solid handle on grading. Consider it a $100 lesson with $100 worth of coins, rather than spending $100 on grading coins you bought for $1000+ that are cleaned or otherwise damaged.

[copper toning]

I understand what you are trying to convey Mark, but I’m not as interested in the money aspect as I am trying to learn. I have looked at so many certified coins, and unless the grade is covered, you won’t get the same effect as what I’m trying to do. I know you’re trying to prevent me from making a big mistake and I truly appreciate it, I know I will make mistakes; we all do but that’s just part of the learning process. If I were purchasing high dollar items I wouldn’t buy them raw, they would have to be graded by NGC or PCGS. Basically I’m trying to build up my skills with what’s readily available that you can’t really lose too much on. Once again Mark thank you for your advice it’s very valued, I have been reading through the boards and I know that you really do try to help. It’s going to be a good while before these coins are sent in and even a longer time before I get them back but I will post the grades ASAP, thanks mkman123.

 

I actually agree with you and Mark in this circumstance.

 

On one hand... it is probably financially responsible to buy already-certified coins, as Mark recommended, to let someone else incur the grading fees.

 

On the other hand, if you want to make one of your first submissions, it is probably not wise to buy a handful of expensive, raw coins, without having a solid handle on grading. Consider it a $100 lesson with $100 worth of coins, rather than spending $100 on grading coins you bought for $1000+ that are cleaned or otherwise damaged.

 

I can understand this I believe a lot of collectors do the same as mkman. I know I did. The funny thing is after my first few submissions I quit sending in my raw coins. I suppose I got my fix and now I tend to keep the raw as they are and buy certified if it is what I want.

 

Good luck on your submissions. I am sure the excitement will be fun if nothing else.

[coinsandmedals]

I completely understand where Mark is coming from, I know too many people who have really lost a lot of money playing that game. The way I look at the coins are cheap enough so that I can’t really lose money, and I have the opportunity to learn something. In this circumstance I have collectively almost nothing in these coins due to a very generous trade with my local coin dealer. If I were dealing in coins that are particularly scarce or very valuable I would have to buy them certified because at that point I can’t afford to make that mistake.

[MarkFeld]

I completely understand where Mark is coming from, I know too many people who have really lost a lot of money playing that game. The way I look at the coins are cheap enough so that I can’t really lose money, and I have the opportunity to learn something. In this circumstance I have collectively almost nothing in these coins due to a very generous trade with my local coin dealer. If I were dealing in coins that are particularly scarce or very valuable I would have to buy them certified because at that point I can’t afford to make that mistake.

 

I understand where you are coming from, as well. Best of luck and enjoyment to you.

[coinsandmedals]

Thanks, and the same to you Mark! Once again thanks for the advice!

[Ed J]

If you join the Collectors-Society you get 5 free submission a year so the cost will by just for the insurance and postage. Can't loose with that.

[MarkFeld]

If you join the Collectors-Society you get 5 free submission a year so the cost will by just for the insurance and postage. Can't loose with that.

 

That's true, only if the submitter doesn't or wont have other more worthwhile coins to submit.

[Nutmeg Coin]

On the suggestion of buying already certified examples, where would you recommend collectors shop for those?

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

I have a slightly different, and, I am sure, not very useful perspective.

 

I like your approach.

 

The goal, I think, is not to rely on the grading opinion of others.

 

So, how are you establishing the starting point of the educational exercise?

 

Are you using ANA grading standards? Another technical grading method? Are you using market grading standards?

 

We all have different depth,color,clarity and visual acuity, and perceive a coin differently, however minor the perception difference.

 

If you have already established your starting point, then what process of elimination are you using to define your grading opinion prior to submission?

 

[jerseycat10]

I recommend the following venues:

 

https://www.northeastcoin.com/

http://www.nfccoins.com/

http://www.teletrade.com/

http://www.ha.com/

http://www.greatcollections.com/

[e1cnr]

to add pictures rather than links - go to bottom of posting box and hit "switch to full reply screen'

 

then there will be a box on top 3rd from left which is the image box - hit it and copy in web address

 

photobucket also has a feature you can use to skip this - in your photobucket acct, put your cursor over a picture - 4 links/addresses will appear - the 4th is image link - put cursor over this and left click, which will copy - then paste to posting screen

 

 

 

 

All your coins look good to me - PF 64 - 67 range

 

I caution you on your storage - those flips look soft and contain PVC - which will eventually cause problems with coins - I recommend good soaks in acetone before submitting, or at least another storage location.

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

I recommend the following venues:

 

https://www.northeastcoin.com/

http://www.nfccoins.com/

http://www.teletrade.com/

http://www.ha.com/

http://www.greatcollections.com/

 

Recommending as the starting point?

Recommending as the grading method?

Recommending as the process of elimination?

[mkman123]

Don't forget

 

markfeldcoins.com

tbnumismatics.com

reedededge.com

brokencc.com

ebay.com <----last resort if you have to, I find everything here on the buy/sell/trade or from websites and local places

[coinsandmedals]

Thanks e1cnr for the info on how to post pictures instead of links, someone had told me before but I didn’t save the response and I couldn’t find it when I tried to look it up again. In response to john’s question I have purchased the ANA grading guide, as well as a nice array of older “grading” books that I can find at my universities library, I have also used the PCGS’s photograde application as well. Using all of the information that I have available in conjunction with looking at and comparing already certified coins from NGC and PCGS I have a rough idea of what I think things will grade. It’s not a perfect system but I figured if I encompassed as much useful info as I could it would make sense in the end. In response to the second part of the question as to what process of elimination I’m using, it’s really a four part process. My starting point was established when my local dealer took me under his wing o to speak and taught me the basics, when we both felt that I had enough knowledge to really start collecting I then took the process into my own hands with his guidance there if I ever need it.

1. The first part of the process is to separate the good coins from the mediocre coins, this process is usually very quick. Within the first step I look at each coin I have pulled out and using the resources available make my judgment as far as grade, after this process I take the lowest grade and code it onto the back of the label. Keep in mind I do this before I look at the pricing resources, in hope to avoid any conflict.

2. The second thing that I do is look for what coins have what I think is the best possibility of obtaining an acceptable grade (based on the series of coin) in relation to value. This step is to help ensure that I’m not submitting a coin that’s not worth the submission price. Once again separating the coins even further into a smaller amount to choose from.

3. After the second process I look at the coins that are left, and further separate these into categories of value based on my judgment of the grade. I then set the coins to the side and return a short time later and re-evaluate them making sure that the grade I have looks to be accurate, if it is then they stay in their group, if not then they are moved with the coins from the second step.

4. The fourth step occurs right before I submit my coins; I look at the coins left from the third step and choose the coins that promote my collecting habits the most. For instance the coins I’m about to submit are all proofs, this is because I’m currently working on my proof sets. This is the final tie breaker, it basically goes to which ever coin I like the most of the ones left.