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Which coin (if any) would you buy in a genuine holder?

21 posts in this topic

Most of the big coins for my type set have been obtained save two. Decent examples come along every now and then, but are never cheap. One is a 1796 quarter which can be found in lower grade for a relatively affordable amount.

 

The second, and a big one is the 1792 Half Disme. Even in low grades, this sucker is very expensive. I wouldnt mind buying an example in a genuine holder. But not just any example, it would have to be like this:

 

2hncrpz.jpg

 

Which coin (if any), would you consider in a genuine holder?

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There are many coins I would buy in a genuine or details holder if the price is right. That H10C would be one I couldn't afford in any holder!

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I have never purchased a coin in a "genuine" or net graded holder and doubt that I ever will. The trouble is marks and obvious defects bug me and take away from my enjoyment of the piece. I have bought a few raw tokens that had issues, but they were inexpensive stuff at much less than $100. On better material my attitude toward a particular issue is if I can’t afford one that pleases me, then I can live without it.

 

The previous poster makes a good point about liquidity. Problem coins usually are harder to sell, and when the market goes up for a particular item, problem coins often only get a partial share in that good fortune if they get any share at all.

 

BTW the “flattened” 1792 half disme shown above sold at a FUN show auction as a no problem piece at one point until people took a closer look at it. Then it was determined that it was a problem piece and is now labeled as such.

 

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The fact that a coin is in a "genuine" holder has no impact at all on whether or not I'd buy the coin, since I'm not buying the holder.

 

(...well, aside from confidence that the coin is not a fake, of course.)

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I have bought several "genuine holdered" EAC's and done quite well when I sold them.

 

Early American Copper people present a whole different issue. These collectors understand the nature of early copper. Problems with those coins are the rule, not the exception, even if you are a high end buyer. For many varieties only problem coins exist, and some of the best known examples are problem coins. Therefore you can crack those pieces out of their holders, and they will often be even more marketable. For other problems coins the way is not nearly as clear ...

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I try to make sure all of the coins I buy are in genuine holders..... Kind of confused why anybody would prefer a counterfeit holder.

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I try to make sure all of the coins I buy are in genuine holders..... Kind of confused why anybody would prefer a counterfeit holder.

 

"Genuine" it the term PCGS uses for coins that are genuine, but they refuse to assign a number grade because the piece has problems. PCGS does not do net grades. There are no counterfeit coins in genuine holders unless it is an extremely rare mistake or a counterfeit PCGS holder from China.

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I try to make sure all of the coins I buy are in genuine holders..... Kind of confused why anybody would prefer a counterfeit holder.

 

"Genuine" it the term PCGS uses for coins that are genuine, but they refuse to assign a number grade because the piece has problems. PCGS does not do net grades. There are no counterfeit coins in genuine holders unless it is an extremely rare mistake or a counterfeit PCGS holder from China.

 

:jokealert:lol

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At this time I don't own any major coins in genuine, but I have owned many. And to be honest I've made money on all of them when I sold. If they are properly priced, there is a market for them.

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At this time I don't own any major coins in genuine, but I have owned many. And to be honest I've made money on all of them when I sold. If they are properly priced, there is a market for them.

 

You are correct. Almost ANY problem coin can be bought and sold at a profit if the prices are right. The trouble is it's harder to price this material, especially if you are used to dealing in no problem material.

 

You have also had the advantage of dealing with 1793 cents. Perhaps a majority of the survivors in that area have problems, and no problem pieces are often very expensive. If you were to venture into the more the common large cents or anything else you might have a different result.

 

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What about a problem 1793 half cent? Is that a good one to sell? The problem is a very light scratch. If I was to ever sell it I would most likley try to get it regraded.

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It's easier to gauge a price for 1793 large cents and half cents because many have been through the auction block.

A problem 1793 half cent is a very saleable coin as long as its priced properly.

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I would never buy a problem coin in a genuine holder.

 

I recently saw a 21-S in a genuine slab for 18K! How could you EVER justify that??!! Especially since you can't be real sure (although you can have a close idea) what the technical grade would be, if it graded out, in addition to it being a problem coin.

 

No Way!!

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I would never buy a problem coin in a genuine holder.

 

I recently saw a 21-S in a genuine slab for 18K! How could you EVER justify that??!! Especially since you can't be real sure (although you can have a close idea) what the technical grade would be, if it graded out, in addition to it being a problem coin.

 

No Way!!

 

I'd say that anyone who pays $18k for a 1921-S Walker in a genuine holder is out of their mind. For than kind of money or less you can negociate for a decent looking higher end AU or low level Mint State piece.

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At my level of collecting, I'd have to say no. However, I see no problem with some of the examples given. eg. If I needed a 1792 h10 or collected old copper.

 

I will say it irritates me that my LCS buys so many genuine slabbed coins. I am trying to put together a Mint State or Proof State Type Set. I stop by the LCS each month hoping to find a coin to add to my registry set. More often than not I leave empty handed, because their display cases are filled with nothing but raw and Genuine Coins. And before someone suggests I buy raw and submit, most of their Raw coins that I'd be interested in for my set display "light" or more cleaning, so I'd get the same result.

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