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Grade this 1884-o morgan

Started by cjones81-migration,

16 posts in this topic

Old Pueblo

Old Pueblo

Posted
Posted

I have seen Morgans with similar toning pattern grade. I don't know why this failed examination.

Pretty big hit across the cheek focal area, full strike, appears to have good luster I say its a 64 maybe 65. It is an attractive coin to me and for what you paid (close to melt) I think you scored one here. Do you like it?

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Coinsman63

Coinsman63

Posted
Posted
You are lucky with a strike like that from an New Orleans mint but I can't tell why it didn't grade?

 

I see a large canyon scratch across Liberty's cheek, it looks like it might have been cleaned possibly, but the more important thing is the toning arc at the top of the obverse looks artificial to me and may have been suspect to the PCGS graders as well.

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Coinsman63

Coinsman63

Posted
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I suspect that scratch on the cheek is more prominent than the image reveals. Still, I would grade it MS-60, and think it's potentially a great coin at that level.

 

It is a great looking coin and a strong strike, coming from the New Orleans Mint, and for the money not a bad deal.

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James_OldeTowne

James_OldeTowne

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In my opinion, definitely not. It shouldn't ever go above MS-60/1, and even if it had the most spectacular color ever, it wouldn't likely be a big-money coin. I would enjoy it at worst in the current holder, and at best in a simple flip.

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MarkFeld

MarkFeld

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Posted
Thanks for the comments. when i get this coin, do you think i should resubmit it and see if i can get it to grade?

Why would you want to increase your cost In the coin by 100%+? Even if it did grade and graded as high as 63, it wouldn't be worth enough extra to justify your increased cost.
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$ilverHawk

$ilverHawk

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CJ,

 

First off, welcome. As Mark Feld replied, PCGS determined that the scratch across the cheek was too severe to allow this coin to be graded. That is what the Genuine 95 code means.

 

The strike is a very solid MS65. For a O mint strike it is very strong. Clear fields on obverse and reverse. Without the obverse scratch this coin would be a very strong MS65.

 

The toning is definitely natural.

 

No way should you resubmit. The obverse scratch negates that action. Be happy that you acquired this coin for a few dollars above the melt price.

 

$ilverHawk

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cjones81-migration

cjones81-migration

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CJ,

 

First off, welcome. As Mark Feld replied, PCGS determined that the scratch across the cheek was too severe to allow this coin to be graded. That is what the Genuine 95 code means.

 

The strike is a very solid MS65. For a O mint strike it is very strong. Clear fields on obverse and reverse. Without the obverse scratch this coin would be a very strong MS65.

 

The toning is definitely natural.

 

No way should you resubmit. The obverse scratch negates that action. Be happy that you acquired this coin for a few dollars above the melt price.

 

$ilverHawk

 

Thanks for the reply. i wish i was as knowledgeable as some of you, i guess it takes years of experience and asking tons of questions to know some of these things. i'm confused on how can you tell if toning is natural or faux? and how do you tell if a coin has been cleaned or not. Any information, like side-by-side pictures would be very helpful to me. I've looked in the WYNTK threads, but most of the pictures are gone, at least i cant see them.

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Coinsman63

Coinsman63

Posted
Posted
CJ,

 

First off, welcome. As Mark Feld replied, PCGS determined that the scratch across the cheek was too severe to allow this coin to be graded. That is what the Genuine 95 code means.

 

The strike is a very solid MS65. For a O mint strike it is very strong. Clear fields on obverse and reverse. Without the obverse scratch this coin would be a very strong MS65.

 

The toning is definitely natural.

 

No way should you resubmit. The obverse scratch negates that action. Be happy that you acquired this coin for a few dollars above the melt price.

 

$ilverHawk

 

Thanks for the reply. i wish i was as knowledgeable as some of you, i guess it takes years of experience and asking tons of questions to know some of these things. i'm confused on how can you tell if toning is natural or faux? and how do you tell if a coin has been cleaned or not. Any information, like side-by-side pictures would be very helpful to me. I've looked in the WYNTK threads, but most of the pictures are gone, at least i cant see them.

 

As far as telling a coin has been cleaned, or dipped:

 

Dull luster; the original luster is very dull in appearance and the coin will be a very bright white color(for the older or antique coins with 90% silver, age usually doesn't make them bright white), if a brush of some kind was used for removing debris, the coin's surface will have brush marks on them.

 

As far as natural toning and artificial:

 

When silver tarnishes, or oxidizes, it normally turns black or dark brown. A lot of times it may only tone one side of the coin, with small to medium toning spots on the other side. Some people will use chemicals or even heat, as from a small torch, to cause rainbow toning.

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