Grade My Photos/Coin? 1948-D 50c Raw

[James Mayer-migration]

Some of you guys take great photos I am trying to get up to par.

Photos using All manual setting I am using a small aperture to help with depth of field and low ISO settings. All setting are manual I forgot to set the WB before letting the bulb heat up so its a little off for me but I hope you like them

 

If you feel the photos are lacking please give an explanation what your looking for.

 

 

[Coindude]

I think that photo is rather nice, especially if you are just starting out.

[relicsncoins]

Not to shabby. Maybe a little more lighting. Also, It's easier to view if the photo is a little smaller. You're at around 1000x1000 pixels. Try saving it at around 600x600 or 700x700.

[qwasty-migration]

It's tough to grade photos of coins with lots of irregular toning. I'll hazard a guess at MS 64. A visit to NCS to remove rust stains might get it up to an MS 65.

[HiHoAudio]

I think the photo is superb with excellent lighting (no hot spots) and perfect focus. Work on the white balance a bit and reduce the size to 800 x 800 and I'll give you an A+.

 

The coin looks MS64 to me. MS65 without the rust spots.

[James_OldeTowne]

Good focus, but the lighting seems a little strange. I think you are showing us an MS-63 coin.

[physics-fan3.14]

The photo's are large and crystal clear - they look very good to start with. The biggest thing you want to show on an uncirculated coin is the luster - and getting the lighting just right for this can be incredibly difficult. You coin looks like an MS-63. For comarison, here is my 65-FBL:

 

[James Mayer-migration]

Yes its interesting that some of you pointed out the lighting I am using an axial lighting setup (homemade) that allows for no hotspots on the coin. I do have 3 other lamps that mount on my copy stand so I can take photos with traditional lighting methods. I just like how you can see the flow lines around a large part of the rev due to the lighting setup, I also like the higher contrast given in my current setup when compared to my multiple light attempts.

 

Personally I like the toning how it is, I find it rare to find coins in this natural state. I will do my best to keep this coin away from dip and/or NCS for now.

The photo's are large and crystal clear - they look very good to start with. The biggest thing you want to show on an uncirculated coin is the luster - and getting the lighting just right for this can be incredibly difficult. You coin looks like an MS-63. For comarison, here is my 65-FBL:

 

 

I really do like the coin you have posted above I like how it has great natural surfaces with hints of color pecking through. I am not one for largely monster toned rainbows, but I really dont like Blast white coins as well, just dont like the Unnatural feel.

 

In response to your photos I can see your using what looks like 2 lights at I am guessing 20-30 inches away at the closest thing you can get to a right angel? Although I have tried setups like the above as I have yet to go for a 150mm+ macro I end up getting my camera very hot over time. So at this point till I get a zoom macro ($400+) I think I am going to have to stick with current setup giving me the positive of no hotspots and the negative of what most people see as unusually uniform lighting.

[robec1347]

The only thing bad about axial lighting is that it shows the coin as being flat, sort of like a plate. In order to achieve a level of depth, show contours of the design and luster, some shadowing is needed. Axial lighting doesn't provide for that. It is useful for photographing monster toned coins.