Opinion please on 1820 CBH

[Walkerfan]

I just sold a CBH 1820 square base NO knob date to a dealer for $600. Not sure if it is large or small date. It was a raw coin but completely original, not messed with coin in AU 55, at least, possibly AU 58 but at very least 55. Still had alot of mint luster. It was raw. I did some research on this date/grade and the prices were all over the place. I made money on it but have had it for years. Was this a fair price or did I get ripped?? Thanks. Sorry but I have no pics but my description is very accurate. Thx. again.

[djdilliodon]

Chances are its worth $1500 ish and the reason why he paid you the $600 for it

[Walkerfan]

Chances are its worth $1500 ish and the reason why he paid you the $600 for it

 

That's a very high est. I was thinking that it was worth around 900, remember, the dealer has it submit it, hope it at least 55s with no problems AND make some profit for himself. Greysheet doesn't list varieties of date; just says 1820. I found some that sold for 500-600 a mere 5 years ago.

[djdilliodon]

AU55 on teletrade im seeing 900-1500 for a no problem NGC graded coin. Now if it had a shot at 58 even more. I dont think you did bad considering that it was raw but most of the time an experienced dealer doesnt have to hope it comes back as a certain grade. He/She will already know what it will come back as!

[Walkerfan]

I'll agree with that. I bought it from the same dealer in '95 for 380. I sold it to him as a professional courtesy and the fact that he is the largest buyer in my area. I still made 220 on it and I have cold hard cash, right now. I probably could have held out for more, so what you're saying is fair enough. I know he low-balled me but I was just trying to figure out how badly. BTW- even experienced dealers aren't infallible, however, there is NO doubt in my mind that this will 55-58 for sure. I know this from my own experience. Thanks for your response. I appreciate it.

[physics-fan3.14]

A few comments, not necessarily directed at you Walkerfan but things I would like to point out to then entire message board:

 

1: The prices you've seen in auctions 5 years ago must be filtered through some knowledge of the market. The coin market does not just rise in one long upward streak. The Bust Half market has undergone a wild period of growth, followed by the current decline in the market. An auction price 5 years ago has little bearing on what the actual market climate is like today.

 

2. I don't know why everyone always makes this next mistake. You said you bought the coin in 1995 for $380. You said you sold the coin recently for $600. THIS DOES NOT MEAN YOU MADE $220 ON IT!!!!!!! You MUST take into accout inflation! That same $380 in 1995 would have cost you $529 last year (the most recent figures). So, in real (2009) dollars, you only made $70.

 

I realize coins for many people are not an investment, but when we are talking about sums of money which for many people would be considered large, this sort of thing always becomes an issue. You may not give a rip about the investment potential of your coins, I know that my primary focus is as a collector. But the monetary side of things cannot be ignored.

[Walkerfan]

A few comments, not necessarily directed at you Walkerfan but things I would like to point out to then entire message board:

 

1: The prices you've seen in auctions 5 years ago must be filtered through some knowledge of the market. The coin market does not just rise in one long upward streak. The Bust Half market has undergone a wild period of growth, followed by the current decline in the market. An auction price 5 years ago has little bearing on what the actual market climate is like today.

 

2. I don't know why everyone always makes this next mistake. You said you bought the coin in 1995 for $380. You said you sold the coin recently for $600. THIS DOES NOT MEAN YOU MADE $220 ON IT!!!!!!! You MUST take into accout inflation! That same $380 in 1995 would have cost you $529 last year (the most recent figures). So, in real (2009) dollars, you only made $70.

 

I realize coins for many people are not an investment, but when we are talking about sums of money which for many people would be considered large, this sort of thing always becomes an issue. You may not give a rip about the investment potential of your coins, I know that my primary focus is as a collector. But the monetary side of things cannot be ignored.

 

1. I understand market trends very well, better than most people, as I have been following them for years. I also know about economic troughs and peaks, as well as the cyclical nature of the market. The market also has what are known as statistical outliers that have to be factored out, such as when a collector pays 3 times as much as he should for a coin! And of course it is not a perfect upward trend! You don't have to be an economic forecaster to know that! Besides, coins are fungible assets like stocks and bonds and you couldn't run a regression on them, anyway. Also, the market has not fluctuated that 'wildly' in 5 years. You also must use available data and there is not that much for just 2009-2010, so it is feasible to use data from '05-present.

 

2. I Still made some money and got back my initial investment even with the adjustment for inflation.

 

Coins ARE important to me as an investment as well as a collector. I DO 'give a rip' about the investment potential of my coins but you can not always make TOP DOLLAR! I have done very well over the years as an investor and have turned many profits! I don't appreciate the sarcastic, arrogant tone of people, like you, who think that they know it all in order to make others look bad and know nothing! I DO feel as though this IS directed at me.

[djdilliodon]

I'll agree with that. I bought it from the same dealer in '95 for 380. I sold it to him as a professional courtesy and the fact that he is the largest buyer in my area. I still made 220 on it and I have cold hard cash, right now. I probably could have held out for more, so what you're saying is fair enough. I know he low-balled me but I was just trying to figure out how badly. BTW- even experienced dealers aren't infallible, however, there is NO doubt in my mind that this will 55-58 for sure. I know this from my own experience. Thanks for your response. I appreciate it.

 

It is what it is and the main thing is you didnt lose anything, you gained. Was this coin toned at all or ? Next time get it slabbed especially a nice classic such as that!

[Walkerfan]

I'll agree with that. I bought it from the same dealer in '95 for 380. I sold it to him as a professional courtesy and the fact that he is the largest buyer in my area. I still made 220 on it and I have cold hard cash, right now. I probably could have held out for more, so what you're saying is fair enough. I know he low-balled me but I was just trying to figure out how badly. BTW- even experienced dealers aren't infallible, however, there is NO doubt in my mind that this will 55-58 for sure. I know this from my own experience. Thanks for your response. I appreciate it.

 

It is what it is and the main thing is you didnt lose anything, you gained. Was this coin toned at all or ? Next time get it slabbed especially a nice classic such as that!

 

No tone. I would have gotten it slabbed, if I had the luxury of time to wait for the process of cert. by TPGC minus the 40 bucks for submission cost and then to wait again to list it and re-sell and would of had to pay commision fees for it. I needed funds and I felt that it was reasonable. Thanks, again.

[James_OldeTowne]

I just sold a CBH 1820 square base NO knob date to a dealer for $600. Not sure if it is large or small date. It was a raw coin but completely original, not messed with coin in AU 55, at least, possibly AU 58 but at very least 55. Still had alot of mint luster. It was raw. I did some research on this date/grade and the prices were all over the place. I made money on it but have had it for years. Was this a fair price or did I get ripped??

I personally don't think you got "ripped", but you probably could have gotten a couple of hundred more IF the coin was as nice as your description might indicate. In general, the busties of 1820 - 1823 tend to be a little underpriced and often sell above what price guides indicate.

[MBA101]

You were asking the dealer to take on the risk of having it slabbed, which costs money. If the slabbing company no-grades it for some reason that you all missed, he gets screwed. If they grade it only AU-50, he paid a fair price where he can make money. If you had slabbed it and brought it to him as a 55, then he would have paid you more.

 

That said, you did not ID the variety. There are two non-overdates (O-104 and O-107) that would be worth BIG BUCKS to a Nut in AU, with the 107 going for $10K perhaps, the other maybe $2-3K. I am not saying that you had one of those, but did you even check? I ask because you cant tell me exactly which one you had (the 103 is a curled 2, the 104 and 105 are square 2's with knob, the 106-107-108 are square 2's no knob).

 

My advice is to post pics here before selling, so at least you know what you have!

[Walkerfan]

You were asking the dealer to take on the risk of having it slabbed, which costs money. If the slabbing company no-grades it for some reason that you all missed, he gets screwed. If they grade it only AU-50, he paid a fair price where he can make money. If you had slabbed it and brought it to him as a 55, then he would have paid you more.

 

That said, you did not ID the variety. There are two non-overdates (O-104 and O-107) that would be worth BIG BUCKS to a Nut in AU, with the 107 going for $10K perhaps, the other maybe $2-3K. I am not saying that you had one of those, but did you even check? I ask because you cant tell me exactly which one you had (the 103 is a curled 2, the 104 and 105 are square 2's with knob, the 106-107-108 are square 2's no knob).

 

My advice is to post pics here before selling, so at least you know what you have!

 

Fair enough. I really don't think it was an O-107, b/c I've had it looked at before. I checked out the AU-55 on Teletrade that went for 1500; mine was not that nice. The one on TT had better surfaces and great tone, although mine had a very similar strike and had the same amount of minimal wear. so it probably would have 55ed but probably NOT 58. Thanks.

[okbustchaser]

Since it was knobless it couldn't have been the 104. It would have to have been either O-106, (probable) O-107, (very doubtful) or O-108 (possible). All are "large dates". The O-107 is easily recognized by its lack of lower serifs on any of the "E"s on the reverse. The 108 is the only DDR known for the CBH series and as such is also worth a slight premium.

 

 

[Walkerfan]

Since it was knobless it couldn't have been the 104. It would have to have been either O-106, (probable) O-107, (very doubtful) or O-108 (possible). All are "large dates". The O-107 is easily recognized by its lack of lower serifs on any of the "E"s on the reverse. The 108 is the only DDR known for the CBH series and as such is also worth a slight premium.

 

 

Thanks. That's interesting and useful. I was wondering what the differences were and thought that someone would know. Thanks to James and DJD, as well.