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Oiled Coins

17 posts in this topic

I need help with a question? I post a lot more on "Coin Talk", but they are a lot more antagonistic to conservation methods there it seems. It's a little intimidating posting here, as I sense that people here have some pretty high end collections and I have only been doing this 2 years. Anyway, I have disagreed with some over there about leaving mineral oil on coins, or say Blue Ribbon for that matter. I was using Coin Care for a while on my coppers but noticed it left a film. Just recently got some Blue Ribbon and have only used it on a few coins. I primarily use mineral oil on my coppers and have submitted coins and had them grade a number of times with mineral oil on them. Doug, the adminstrator, at Coin Talk, says this will ruin the coins in time. I assume some of the posters have time- tested experience with this that I don't have. I dab off with a fine microcloth. I am going to buy a camel hair brush for my raw coins. I understand the EAC guys do this with good success. I use mineral oil to protect the coins from the ionic reactions of sulfur, and other contaminants (oils have covalent bonds and repel ionic reactions). Any wisdom here is appreciated.

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Don't be intimidated at all! Everyone here is usually very friendly, and its the guys that have the awesome collections and have been doing this since the 50's that we can learn the most from.

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I think Bobby did an experiment with copper and oil a while back. I think the overall consensus was that it did not d much for the overall look of the coin, but I'm sure he'll be by to give you his take.

 

On a selling note, you can see a, improperly cleaned oiled-copper coin a mile away. Some ppl like the shine, but that’s a matter of taste.

 

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From what I've seen of coin collecting you are much more likely to see the collectors "oiled" than the coins... :)

 

What a thought provoking statement...yikes!

 

simmons.jpg

 

Don't ever use olive oil for an extended soak, it turns rancid rather quickly.

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Actually, if you use, say, almond oil (or any tree nut oil) and post-dip the copper coin in USP Acetone or Methylene Chloride after soaking, you obtain the same coloring effect as an olive oil soak. However, you can not tell if the coin has been soaked in nut oil or not.

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Thanks Bob, EZ E and others. I read all these posts and links (several I have read before). It seemed the consensus not to leave on oil, but some say yes. Remove Blue Ribbon with acetone- I haven't done that,. I think Condor 101 made a good point about leaving it on, and I am more inclined to do this as it seems to be a good protectant to me. Exposed reactive metals like copper seem ripe for oxidation without such protect. Ambient humidity is typically 50-70% for most of the year where I live so I really have to go over the top to protect my coppers.

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Exposed reactive metals like copper seem ripe for oxidation without such protect. Ambient humidity is typically 50-70% for most of the year where I live so I really have to go over the top to protect my coppers.

 

While I can understand your wanting to protect your coppers, there's no reason why a healthy supply of dessicant and a sealed container with a fairly constant temperature can't protect your coppers without the oil. To wit, I've kept coppers for decades without problems on the coast of Florida. For example, the humidity is 85% today and that's about average. Respectfully...Mike

 

p.s. I personally don't care for the "brushed & oiled" look, but the EACers certainly disagree! :)

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I read on one of the boards recently about acetone not being safe to use with copper. For the life of me I can't find the thread. Does anyone know of reason to avoid using acetone on copper?

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I read on one of the boards recently about acetone not being safe to use with copper. For the life of me I can't find the thread. Does anyone know of reason to avoid using acetone on copper?

 

I think you are thinking of aluminum. I have mentioned a couple of times fairly recently not to use acetone on aluminum.

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Studies have shown that an extended soak (days) of copper in acetone under bright illumination can result in a slight reaction with the copper. Since I have never found it necessary to do an extended soak for more than a few minutes (soaking isn't as effective as agitation) and I don't normally do it under bright lights I don't worry about it.

 

Some people HAVE reported that they have had acetone change the color of their coppers. The only time I have had that happen it was because the coin had been artificially recolored and the acetone removed the coloring agent. One other thing that can cause an acetoned copper to look odd is that copper seems to have an affinity for oil an most any piece you see will have a thin film of oil on it. When this oil is removed the copper can sometimes have a dry gray appearance but that is typically fixed by putting an fresh layer of clean oil on the copper again. I prefer Blue Ribbon for this because the oil is a silicone base and not reactive.

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While I can understand your wanting to protect your coppers, there's no reason why a healthy supply of dessicant and a sealed container with a fairly constant temperature can't protect your coppers without the oil. To wit, I've kept coppers for decades without problems on the coast of Florida. For example, the humidity is 85% today and that's about average. Respectfully...Mike

 

p.s. I personally don't care for the "brushed & oiled" look, but the EACers certainly disagree! :)

 

 

Thanks Mike for this feedback,

I like the look of both- some of my coppers have mineral oil or Blue Ribbon and some don't. Porous ones AU or worse I especially tend to have oil on as these coins seem more prone to verdigris or other such problems in my experience. I have low humidity where the actual coins are stored. I am sorta of undecided at this point. Good thing is, is that oil can be easily removed with acetone or distilled water. I have found acetone can make coppers turn different blues and violates but they calm down with time and usually look kind of cool to me.

 

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