Your Favorite Grade

[123cents]

When it comes to the types of coins you collect which grade do you think gives you the most value for your money and why?

[James_OldeTowne]

VF-20 is in the sweet spot of amount-of-detail for the money.

[Tradedollarnut]

A just missed it, near gem MS64. The price jump to MS65 can sometimes be in excess of $40k!

[TomB]

In my experience, I have found that either MS64 or VF30 seem to be the best combination of cost vs. eye appeal for the coins I am interested in obtaining on a regular basis.

[WinstonWare]

I don’t know that I have a favorite grade. My series of focus is the DBH/CBH and in more common later date CBH the highest grade I have is AU50 but I only bought an au50 because it was original (looking to me…whatever). I generally buy VF coins for CBHs. That said I proudly own an 1803 DBH in F15.

 

My final answer would be that I look for originality before grade but if you wanted to pin me down I would have to say VF25.

 

[jackson64]

I agree with both the 64 and the VF grades...also I would throw in an AU55/58 grades which are often better looking coins than low grade Mint State coins...I'll take a little rub over a mint state coin with a bunch of contact marks, ugly color or hairlines...

[bsshog40]

Does Top Pop count as a grade otherwise I'm not really stuck on any piticular grade.

[jesbroken]

I think that it would be according to what you collect, while a VF25 might be great for a CBH/DBH it would suck for a lincoln, washington quarter or standing liberty quarter. JMO. For these coins a minimum of BU would be a priority for me. Obviously, the higher MS grades result in less marks on the coin that might detract from its beauty.

 

"Different strokes for different folks"--Sly

[World Colonial]

AU-55 or AU-58.

[EZ_E]

In my experience, I have found that either MS64 or VF30 seem to be the best combination of cost vs. eye appeal for the coins I am interested in obtaining on a regular basis.

 

That's where I tend to gravitate when possible. I prefer a PQ Pr 64 Cameo for lots of my 19th century proofs. VF20 is nice for lots of early types although VF30 would be much better.

[cpm9ball]

First, I would like to point out that my preferences are from the viewpoint as a collector. "Value", to me, also encompasses the satisfaction and enjoyment I get from building my collection. In this respect, there is no way that "value" can be calculated in dollars and cents. Where a dealer is concerned, this is an intangible that cannot be factored into their revenues and expenses.

 

Where Morgans are concerned........................

 

I like 64/65/66 for the common date, blast white specimens because it is easier to negotiate on the purchase price when there are so many available.

 

For DMPL's, 64 is the sweet spot for me. There are a lot of raw specimens available that can be purchased for 63 money in sight-seen transactions, and slabbed 64's can still be had for reasonable prices around "Bid".

 

For toners, anything goes! I've seen rainbow-toned 63's sell for huge prices while nice, rim-toned 65's go for a song. Yeah, the rainbows do look nice, but for my money, I'll stick with the "Tid-E-Bowls" and honey-colored rim toning because I can get 64's & 65's at affordable prices.

 

Chris

[TJ'S Coins]

My favorite grades for eye appeal: MS65 - start of the gem grades; EF45- enough circulation to provide character.

 

The coins that I usually acquire for value vs. cost: MS64 and VF20-30

 

I wind up agreeing with both TomB and James. Not bad company to keep

 

Normally I purchase what looks good to me for the grade and fits my budget.

 

[BillJones]

For me all depends upon the era.

 

For early US coins, I really like choice AUs in 55 or 58. If I can't afford the coin in the AU, a choice original VF or EF is OK. I generally don't collect anything that grades less than Fine, and "Fine" is a low grade for me.

 

For the mid 19th century I'm into MS or PR-64s. I prefer the Proof if it's common enough to be obtainable.

 

For modern material, I try to get at least MS-65s. If I'm collecting it Proof, it's usually a 66 or 67. I got so used to the recent Proofs in high grade, that I really don't care for the earlier ones in 65 or less.

 

As for ultra moderns, which I collect for "short dollars" to fill registry holes, PR-69 DCam is my grade. I've paid $12 to $25 for those.

[rbrown4]

Very good idea for a post as I am still learning and the opinions and preferences that are being given is great information and food for thought.

 

Thanks,

 

Rey

[Revenant]

I'm collecting mostly moderns and most of the sets I'm working on lead me to target either a MS66 or an MS69 depending on whether I'm collecting business strike or bullion/commemorative/proof. I think the average price jump from 69 to 70 is rediculous and most business strike coins from the last 50 years tend to start exploding in price around MS67.

[kryptonitecomics]

MS64

[123cents]

I guess my favorite grade is AU-58. I collect CBH's and I seem to get the most for my money at this grade.

[PerryHall]

My favorite grade varies with the series. In every case, I like the highest grade before the big price jump within the series. As an example, I like MS62 for Liberty $10 gold coins since MS62's are about $450 while MS63's are about $1100 or more than twice as much as the grade one point lower. I try to buy coins with good value and minimal downside risk since you never know when you may have to sell some.

[Dwaine]

This is a very good post. For my type set I am trying to get the coins in the 63 to 65 range if possible or in the 55 to 58 range for the more expensive coins. Early proofs from the 63 to 65 range as well.

 

For my 1870 proof set the highest grade that I can afford.