JKK

Yeah, not sure what you think you've accomplished here. You aren't sure it's authentic, but you want to sell it, and you seem to think no one will notice this. I think maybe you don't realize the importance of reputation in our world.

By the way, I can read the thread title, which is "as-salaam aleikum". Presumably everyone knows this is the common way to say howdy in Arabic-speaking countries, and in some predominantly Muslim countries where the language of conversation is not Arabic. I said it to the Turkish Jandarma (national military police officer) outside Ephesus and he was absolutely delighted.

Here's the thing. Maybe you, with your very specialized collecting style which I am not judging, would slab it. Your money, your call. But the new inquirer has no idea of your context, and therefore weights your recommendation as one [clearly established forum member who might possibly be an expert or at least seems like an Advanced Numismatist] vote in favor. They don't know you're doing a thing you're about the only person who would do. It is the responsible behavior to consider qualifying your response in such a case, showing consideration to the differing context of the new collector/finder. If you do not, you will do harm to the inquirer, the forum, and the hobby. It's not much to ask.
Now, if it's one of the persons_whose_heads_bear_remarkable_resemblances_to_male_generative_organs who shows up here with an abused parking lot coin, insists that it's a rare mint error and a quintupled die, and yowls defiant dissent at several members who try patiently to inform him that it's a piece of junk worth face value, by all means tell them to send it in. After those exhibitions, they deserve to waste their money. But this OP has done nothing of the kind.

Heh. Won't take long before you're the board's one to go to on these.

Something clicked today but it wouldn't have without your guidance.   When I first looked through online sources I could not make heads or tails out of anything.  Now with some basic understanding of it, I am starting to at least begin to correctly research.  Thank You

Seems pretty reasonable. Only in hand could you tell if there were the phantom of an old dot there, and it sounds like you took a close look.

If not that one, certainly one near to it. Sometimes the only variance is the thickness of the rim band, or in the way the characters are rendered.

Heh. Won't take long before you're the board's one to go to on these.

I don't speak much Chinese (10-20 words of Mandarin, some of them unacceptable in polite company), and I read nearly none, but here's how I do this using that book. It has drawings of many, many coins, and they are to scale, so you can lay a ruler on the page to get diameter. I then start on the obverse with either the 12:00 or 6:00 character, and start looking. If it has the loopy thing on the back, that looks like Arabic qafs and waws, I know it's Qing and thus after 1644, but Hartill goes back to cowries, spade money, etc. in times BCE. In the front is a very nice reference setup arranging legends by strokes, listing of Manchu mint names, all sorts of happy stuff. When you get it, if you were impressed in any way by me, you won't be because you'll see it was all the book, not me.
Anyway, I use the references up front to see if I can get an idea where to look chronolgically, then zero in on one of those two characters. When I find a coin they both match, and with correct diameter, I verify the other characters or absence thereof. It isn't that hard, provided you aren't too intimidated by Chinese characters.

Somewhere in there. Might be 16.261-2, which are better size matches.

Okay, progress. Not Annamese; Northern Song. Here's the problem: the top character that looks like a prostrating figure serving as a table base is actually a stylized version of the character yuan, much more commonly written as shown in the link and a common sight on more modern coins for obvious reasons. So one looks at the coin listings, sees that, says "nope, that's not it," when in fact it is.
So I think it's Hartill 16.211, Emperor Shen Zong (1068-85 CE). They're very common, but it is never less than cool to have a coin nine hundred years old.

Okay, progress. Not Annamese; Northern Song. Here's the problem: the top character that looks like a prostrating figure serving as a table base is actually a stylized version of the character yuan, much more commonly written as shown in the link and a common sight on more modern coins for obvious reasons. So one looks at the coin listings, sees that, says "nope, that's not it," when in fact it is.
So I think it's Hartill 16.211, Emperor Shen Zong (1068-85 CE). They're very common, but it is never less than cool to have a coin nine hundred years old.

The reverse needs to rotate 180, but it's not hard to read. I think the obverse also needs to come around 180. I have a feeling this will be easier to find than the first two (not that I've given up on those; just working on them when attention permits).

Wow. We're always having to hassle people to do those things and convince them that they matter. (Okay, the weight part is not really a big deal. But the orientation is.) That makes me want to go digging before my coffee.
I took a good look through the earliest Krause, 1600s; no soap. Your key character to look for is the one at the top, which looks like some abject servant prostrating himself with a tabletop on his back. The only thing I found that looked somewhat like it was the Annamese coins I mentioned, and only a couple, but I'm not sure there's a comprehensive reference on Annamese. Hartill (the book I suggested) only has a sampling and mentions that there are many contemporary fakes and variations, which is clear as mud. But that character is not a moving target; if you look long enough you'll find it; it'll be key. I think you're safe not to spend time in the Korean and Japanese listings. Hope that helps.

Glad to help. Doing this is so much more fun when people are willing to follow some basics to make it easier. It's very motivating.
With cashes, first thing to get is diameter, because the size typically tells the denom. Next is to identify the emperor, typically the character at 6:00 obverse. Mint is generally the thing at 3:00 reverse. Often the 9:00 reverse thing is the dynasty; for example, the loopyloop thing that I would describe as looking like Arabic waws and qafs without the dots is for the Ch'ing dynasty, the last before the proclamation of the Chinese Republic.

You're welcome, and thank you for being understanding. The fact that the price was far below market for the condition and grade should normally tip you off in such a case, but live and learn. I paid my own tuition of this nature on a Nolan Ryan rookie card.

I can't see the video, but that I suspect is because of draconian privacy settings. That's pretty sweet to find 1800s coins, even if it is unlikely any of them will rise to the nest egg level. Spain and its colonies had a major currency transformation over that century, as did many other European countries. If you ever want to see a real numismatic quagmire, check out German States coins before unification. I think a third of the Krause book is occupied with all the various principalities, electorates, duchies, and other states of many sizes.

Nice find, Peter. That's how I got my own start on coin collecting, though without a metal detector. My family are from Kansas (middle of the lower 48 US) and moved to what became the family cattle ranch in the 1880s. One day when I was about six, just outside the carriage-room (we still call it that to this day, 50 years later), I found a blackened early 1900s Barber dime in the dirt. Considering this was Kansas, where the mud is more like muuuuudd and swallows up dropped items, that was a miracle. Maybe my great-grandmother (who was then still alive; born 1884, grew up there, raised family) had dropped it by mistake when she was a young wife or teen girl. They were happy to let me keep it, and family members began to give me coins. I don't think they had any idea what they started.
Where you are at, you could legitimately hope for pre-Spanish-American War pieces in old forts, especially those that have all but fallen down because they long ago ceased to be needed. Those might be less picked over than the better preserved forts.

I like PI coinage as well. I've got one older one from the Spanish era, 1820 I think, a quarto. Worn, but I like it.
If you need help identifying anything, post the pics (both sides) with weight and diameter in their own thread (one thread per coin). Cropping the photo helps a great deal. We have people on here whose world coin knowledge makes me look like a bonobo. And of course US coins, well, lots of knowledge here in that area. It will be helpful to know or learn which coins are silver, because those always get at least something close to the bullion value. Having a jukebox business is the motherlode for accumulating a coin collection, so that's excellent for you.
Even with pricing guides, the problem there is that the values you see tend to be very much inflated and rarely updated. If you really want to know what a coin is worth, find one like it under Sold Listings on Ebay. Anyone can put something to sell for any price, but what people pay for it when it's real money--that's what it's worth. Enjoy this journey, and glad to be of service.

Walang anuman. I don't know of specific software to recommend, but for starters it's just making a count. The expected outcome from that is to know what really needs research and opinions, and what is of minimal value. For example: non-steel US Lincolns from 1934-58 are typically not worth much of a premium. Someone might pay $1.50 for 100 of them. Most of the silver will be worth its metal value (around US $27/oz right now; see this page for exact numbers on specific US coins).
So once you've got it all sorted out and counted in raw numbers, phase two involves winnowing out what is worth more than bulk. This will be more difficult. Your best resource for the US coins would be a Red Book, not because you can always go by the pricing, but because the pricing lists will show which coins are rare and worth watching for. So then when you get the Buffalo nickels sorted out, for example, you'll be watching for those before 1915, those before 1927 with D and S mint marks, the 1916 and 1935 doubled dies, a 1936-D three-and-a-half legs and the famous 37-D three-legged buffalo. The logic is that 99% of your coins will likely not fall into any premium categories and don't need more than a quick identifying glance. The other 1% will be worth the time to check into, identify what you've got, look up in price guides, get an idea how to grade.
On the non-US coins, of course, well, that depends in part on your language and alphabet background. Those and ancients are my main collecting area, and while some are valuable of course, the fact is there is less demand for most issues. People wonder how a US 1909-S VDB penny, 484K minted, can automatically be worth $500+ if authentic (counterfeiting is a big problem), whereas a Hungarian coin with only 15,000 minted might be worth $10. Demand is what drives it all. There are collectors of Hungarian coins; there just aren't as many as there are US collectors. Eventually you'll start to get an idea of what looks older, and once you get your non-US coins sorted mostly by country we can help you ID the stragglers. Or you can begin yourself using Numista, a fantastic resource for this.
One last thing: shininess is deceiving, but don't risk damaging coins that might be valuable. One can make a coin shiny by cleaning it, thus damaging its value. When trying to assess condition, look for high points and wear (or lack thereof). A coin that has all its detail and nice fields may be nearly uncirculated and you would not want to ding it or get skin oil on it any more than you could help. For example, consider the 1937-44 PI centavo, of which you have surely seen some and probably have a lot. On the obverse (front) it has a shield with an oval device that sticks way up; you would look to see most of the detail in the oval (looks to me like a tower overlooking a sea dragon). If flat, could be wear and could be a weak strike, but either way it's probably not vulnerable to damage in your process.

First: 150 kg or 60 lbs, which is it? The two quantities are quite different.
NGC won't go through that collection. You will either have to find a numismatist and pay him/her, or start drinking from the numismatic fire hose. I suspect that by the time someone finishes cataloguing them all for you, it will cost more than the collection is worth, so I do not really recommend that. Coins are heavy to ship. Also, here's your first ice bath of honesty: the odds are low that the coins are worth Big Bucks. Oh, it's possible, but most people imagine their coins to be more valuable than Mr. Market says they are. You should brace yourself for "Whaaaaaa? You can't tell me these are only worth $XXX? No WAY! I have Real Old 1800s Coins here and they have to be worth massive money!" If that sounds mocking, it's not so intended. I'm saying it with a collegial smile based in experience looking at a lot of collections that people thought were very valuable. For example, take German Imperial 10pf coins in F condition, 1800s. Except for a few less common dates, they are so common they are often found in assortment bins for 15-20c. They're cool, but they aren't worth much--and try telling their owners that.
I'd start by sorting the US coins by type, then subtype where obvious. For example: Kennedys 1964, 65-70, 71+. Washingtons 1932-64 and 65+, Rosies 1946-64 and 64+, Jeffs 1938-42 (not silver), 42-45 (silver; look for the big mint mark above Monticello), and 46+. Lincs 1909-33, 1934-58, 1959-82, 1982 (Cu clad Zinc)+. I'd sort the non-US coins by country, putting all the ones you can't determine the country (don't guess; if you aren't sure, have an "aren't sure" group) into a "hellifIknow" category.
When you finish with that, start counting how many are in each group. If it's easier to weigh them, do that and divide by the standard weight of the type.
That should keep you out of the fleshpots of ****** City for a while. When you have totals, or need guidance, post here and let us know what you have or need to know, and we'll help you move forward. Even if you decide you want to send them to someone, a basic inventory by type and subtype will help that person quote you a cost and have an idea what they're up against, so you ought to do it for best outcome.

There is no easy way to say this and I'm not saying it to be mean, but if you are not able to see the difference in quality between your coin and the PCGS one you posted you should not buy any more coins until you can understand the difference.  These two coins are about as close to polar opposites for MS grading as you could ever see.  I would suggest you not buy any coins until you spend time reading and studying coin grading.  If you do continue to "bargain hunt" for these basement slabs you ae going to end up with a collection of overpriced "stuff", do yourself a favor if you must buy; buy coins in the top two firms holders (NGC and PCGS) until you do understand the differences in these two coins.

We do not normally answer that question directly, because even if the querent is legit, many of those silently reading and seeking to refine counterfeiting skills are not. However, if you said it did not match up with known authentic examples, that would be true, yet not helpful to those out there doing the wrong thing.

I don't see anything about it to make me doubt its authenticity. Moderate leaning toward heavy even wear, no damage except for edge bumps, no insufficiently_thoughtful_person has gone in and whizzed it or otherwise thought they would be cute to clean it, so that's all to the good. Lower Canada (what is now Québec) bank token, 1 sou (half penny), sold listings look like they go for $2-3. I'd definitely pay $3 for one. Dealer would probably figure that the public had zero idea of its value and would price it at $5 or $10, and someone would eventually pay him that.

I can't determine what D.N.C. might mean, but it looks quite authentic with heavy wear and some pitting, but at least a natural look for its age, and I don't see any nasty edge dings (that's always nice). I'd have paid $3 for it.