dprince1138

Nice DDR. What are you referring to as "first submission"? Yes, grading always helps. Generally, some sort of protecting material is useful. Many collectors use the stapled cardboard method. You can buy coin holders inexpensively from Amazon. Of course, to grade would require complete images of obverse and reverse. Also, you may want to view similar coins on ebay, etsy or heritage auctions for comparable listings. Sheldon coin grading scale - Wikipedia

I have seen different attributes listed for a variety, depending on the source of variety documentation. Also, there is sometimes stated that a particular attribute may not always be seen for a particular die variety. Also, on the Overton scale, there will be a sub scategory for an additional attribute, for example O-108 and O-108a, where the "a" category may include a die crack in addition to the attributes listed for O-108.

I have noticed buyers on ebay looking to fill collections with high unc ratings and high luster, including paying premium prices.

Unless they have been reviewed before, I would recommend taking the time anf effort to review them, as there are many pennies with high values, such as the 1955 dbl die or 1969 small date. Indeed, these are rare, and most likely there will not be any of note in your collection. What I have done when reviewing dozens, if not 100s, of coins, is to familiarize myself with the high rarity rating varieties and low mint numbers and then see if any of the coins meet those criteria. Sort of a schrodinger's cat of coins. I will give an example; Someone was selling an 1880 seated liberty dime, but did not realize that it was a low mint date. I profited several 100 dollars on the resell. The recommendation of asking a competent (and trusted) coin dealer or collector is a good idea.

Always nce to find a die variety. I assume that this is of the variety FS-101, VP-001? Oddly, I am not able to find a rarity rating. Although, from the prices, right off hand, it would seem that it is an R2.

Here is a grading reference that I have used. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheldon_coin_grading_scale I grade my coins as I sell them on ebay. Also, here are the documents that I use for recommended value and known varieties. NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC United States Categories | VarietyPlus® | NGC Here are methods to determine counterfeit silver coins. (I have a magnet and a sensitive scale) Fake Silver Coins: 14 Ways to Spot Counterfeits - Silver Coins

Here is a grading reference that I have used. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheldon_coin_grading_scale Also, another consideration is the degradation of copper. Copper is initially red, such as with this coin.

Regardless, insulting someone is inconsiderate and only a consequence of intolerance and\or arrogance. Behavior of this nature is rarely accpetable, at least on forums with a more mature population, and to be honest, I found it surprising to be found on what I had considered a well mannered and helpful population and content. Although, I have only joined a few days ago and have little idea about the overall behavior of posters. This is my last response.

Very rude.. @ModeratorUS @admin

David Prince Coin Listing

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Thank you for your efforts and for the Heritage link. I will need to check that site out. Of course, once I receive the coin I will take clearer photos. Too bad that the ultimate capped bust dime book is hard to find.

The line was perpendicular to the arrow side, although, there was some angle deviation. Also. I drew a line from the C to the dot to indicate spacing. I looked at the JR series, but I did not see a 2nd dot. In an attempt to provide more clarity, I drew a line from the dot to the points of the last arrow. The dot is higher in relation to the curl of the C and the angle is steeper to the arrow. As mentioned, the dot seems to be in the same location as the dot for the large 10C

Thank you, while the spacing between the 1 and 0 seems to be similar, the spacing between the C and period do not seem to be similar. The period is much further to the right and is in the same position of the period for a large 10C version,

Also, thank you for your replies!

If you own any counterfeit Bust dimes or other denominations which you believe could be contemporary or if you have any historical documentation on Bust dimes or other Bust denomination please contact me at stonemanl01 gmail com. I have sent this fellow an email.

Also, thank you for your replies!

I have reviewed all of the possible varities listed in NGC coin varities and there are no variations in the 10C positioning nor could I find any other source indicating 10C positioning varieties.. Apparently, there is a book with extensive documentation of capped bust dimes, but is difficult to find and very expensive, if found. The photo quality is poor. I had purchased the dime yesterday. I would need an explicit explaination of why it would be a counterfeit. Also, I had researched this possibilty, but found no documentation.

I use several sites to identify varieties, but I have come upon a dime that I cannot associate with an existing variety. Description; The medium size 10C has wider spacing between the 1 and 0, and between the C and period, which is under the 3rd arrow, at about the center. The period placement seems to match that of a large 10C placement. Perhaps the medium 10C letters were struck using a large 10C letter layout? Attached are a medium 10C example, a large 10C example and the dime in question. Any assistance in where to find additional variety information or information about this seeming variety would be greatly appreciated!