blackfoxDJ

Hi, need some help  to id needed before buying.
Korea, 1 Mun, Sang pyong, General Military Office, series 7 ?
Also, fake or real?
If real, is it worth US$6,00?

Thanks

30 minutes ago, James_OldeTowne said:

I wonder if it might make more sense (and of course, if the opportunity arises) to purchase these in larger volume?  Sorry to hear that those evil "customs" things drive up prices so much!

that's what we usually do, even here inside Brazil, to "reduce" shipping costs.
that coin came with another 5 modern ones.

24 minutes ago, Quintus Arrius said:

In all fairness, one would have to consider the rate of exchange on the date purchased, the circumstances and the country, irrespective of supply and demand.  Ordinary things we take for granted are notoriously more expensive elsewhere. 

Indeed.
Here in Brazil the math goes like this for any imported good.
(coin price +shipping & handle )*1.6 

1.6 = 60% import taxes.

then convert to BRL (+- * 5 given today exchange rate)

So for example, if a coin costs US$1.00 in US and S&H US$5.00 we have US$6.00 for the coin, with customs taxes that goes up to US$9.6, and then we calculate the price in BRL.

So a coins that costs US$ 1.00 in US can easily cost 10 times more here, if it doesn't disappear in the post office...

Welcome to third world country...
 

Hi, updated the coin sizes/weight on main post.

7 hours ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Jarringly, out of character and not helpful.

Anyone mind if I cross-examine the witness, blackfoxDJ?

Sir, can you tell us generally where (area) or from whom you acquired this coin (flea market dealer, friend) and why, i.e., the representations that were made to induce you to buy it at the price asked?  This is not to be rude or overly inquisitive or unjustifiably suspicious but rather to provide the casual observer with the indications needed to form an opinion.  For example, if you bought or otherwise obtained the coin from a fly-by-night, here today, gone tomorrow party at what seems to be an inflated price that has as much meaning as purchasing it from an authorized dealer at a competitive price.  It narrows down the possibilities enabling the viewer to arrive at a valid conclusion. If someone well-versed in such mintage issues is unfamiliar or unavailable, another may be able to point you in the right direction for further edification.  I too have a massive bronze I obtained years ago that I know nothing about beyond the fact it was acquired from an older dealer in an open-air flea market the likes of which no longer exist in New York City.  I hope to post it soon to hopefully gain a better understanding, if that's possible, of exactly what it is I have.  I am sorry I am unable to help you but it is entirely possible someone else might.  I wish you Good Luck in solving your mystery!

Hi. Not a problem, I understand perfectly.

I'm in Brazil and bought it at a online auction from a Brazilian dealer, for about US$6.00. 

Why? I don't have coins from that period from China and was cheap. (Relative to prices here in Brazil)

As far as I know the coin was part of a collection that he bought for sell.

Julio

Hi,

I was offered this coins and am trying to verify if it's a fake.
Japan, 10 Sen, Meiji year 3. Y#2.
2.6g, 18.4 mm. (should be 2.5g, 17.57mm)
He tested for silver, but not for silver content, so don't know yet if it's 0.800.


https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces15204.html

thank you.

16 hours ago, JKK said:

Okay. BORTE: bust, obverse legend, reverse legend, (reverse) type, exergue.
What we think we can see and have gleaned so far:

High likelihood of Constantius II, AE3. If so, that trims it down to about 900 possibilities. Using Aorta:

• B: 10: diademed (pearls) bust right, draped, cuirassed.
• O: 2-10: CONSTANTIVS _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ (give or take a character, and bearing in mind that PF AVG is a very likely ending but by no means the only possibility)
• R: ? wholly illegible; will have to be inferred from reverse type associations
• T: 101: (looks like) Soldiers standing on either side of two standards, each holding spear, resting hand on shield
• E: 16: _ MT _ (Thessalonika is the only reasonable possibility)

We learn that all the B10s have O19: DN CONSTANTIVS PF AVG, or O25 (even further divorced from what we see). That's a big problem. There is simply no good reason to imagine we're missing a DN before the emperor's name; it makes me at least wonder if we should in fact look at Constantine (the IVS easily could be VNS). So we take what we know and surmise, and check into Constantine II. He struck an AE3:

• B: 7 (he has only about twelve of these, yay)
• O: 3-13 (all those are 7, CONSTANTINVS IVN NOB C)
• R: 27? Going by association with T73, GLORIA EXERCITVS passes the logic test (soldiers pictured) and the association test (found on many issues together), so I'll believe that provisionally, and yes, it matches with B7 and O7
• T: 73 (yep, fits)
• E: 14 Major drag, because the ten reasonable matches are all SMK_ or dot SMK_ (E06; Cyzicus). The very clearest  letter in your exergue is the T, and there's no way it's a screwed up K.

We still haven't identified it, mainly because we aren't 100% sure which emperor, but we can try some possible descriptors as working guesses:

• B: diademed (pearls) draped, cuirassed bust right
• O: CONSTANTINVS (IVN NOB C?)
• R: GLORIA EXERCITVS
• T: Two solders standing on either side of two standards, each holding spear, hands on shields
• E: _ MT _ , which just about has to be Thessalonika

If you dig through the emperors from Constantine I--I would start with his AE3 folles post-317 CE--limiting it to those where the obverse legend could include one of the CONSTANTI____ variants, matching the reverse type and legend, and seeking only Thessalonika examples, you should be able to get this down to a question of which oficina made this. Your key tell is on the bust: the cuirass detail on your coin is really quite nice. The image must match that amount of cuirass showing and its style.

Good hunting.

 

Wow, lots on detective work here.
Pictures can be deceiving, so what I do can positively read looking the coin with 2.5 mag., now that I know what to look is:
Obv: CON__TANTIN_ ???? NOB C
Rev: ? - __XER - ??,  it would be GLORI -A EXER - CITUS. Positive about _XER not _XERC above the soldiers. 
Mint: SMT(S?)?

Browsing this page, looking for Thessalonica coins wiht _XER - reverse, it all narrows down do RIC VII 199,
There are 9 variations of it here: http://numismatics.org/search/results?q=exer+-+citvs+AND+material_facet%3A"Bronze"+AND+mint_facet%3A"Thessalonica"+AND+reference_facet%3A"RIC+VII+Thessalonica+199"

this one the seems to be most  similar to mine:

http://numismatics.org/collection/1944.100.13064

Getting closer?

8 hours ago, JKK said:

That head does not match the OP's coin. For one thing, the OP's coin has the pearl diademed (looks like draped, cuirassed) bust right. For another, he says his weighs at most half what the coin pictured here weighs. I'll see if I can devote some time to looking it up.

Hi,
 

From Not in Ric site (http://www.notinric.lechstepniewski.info/index.html) I was told that it would be a RIC VII 199, Thessalonica, as it can be found here (https://www.wildwinds.com/coins/ric/constantine_II/t.html)
 

not from the same die of course.

Opinions?

thank you

 

42 minutes ago, JKK said:

Need weight and diameter.

it's about 17mm x 1.9mm
Don't know the correct weight. My scale has no decima point for grams. it read 3g / 0,1 oz, could be anything between 2.3 and 3 g...

Hi, 

Have this for many years and want to have a more precise id.
What I was told is that it's a Constantinus II follis, c. 337-340, reading:
CONSTANTINUS IVN NOB C
GLORIA EXERCITVS
SMTS<something>  (the S in TS looks like a Greek sigma depending on how I look at it...)

Is that right? Any catalog code?
Also, how do you grade it? I have not a clue about ancient coins.
Thank you.

Hi.

I would like some opinions about this piece.
KM#526
Would it be a modern counterfeit? Antique counterfeit?
Its data: 39.1mm x 3.9mm x +-24g Reeded Edge

Catalog data (Krause): 38mm x 3mm x 27.7g, Lettered Edge

As you can see there's a fingerprint imprinted on it.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thank you.

23 minutes ago, RWB said:

Is THF (tetrahydrofuran) available without a permit? That will work. Also if high concentration hydrogen peroxide is available, that should work quickly on PVC plasticizers. (Just keep your H2O2 away from rocket powered torpedoes -- might be injurious to your submarines....)

Hydrogen Peroxide is. 
Thanks

15 minutes ago, kbbpll said:

If acetone requires a special permit, I would be wary that your nail polish removers are non-acetone, which are usually ethyl acetate. I have no idea what ethyl acetate does to coins. Since you've used it before I guess you've checked the ingredients; just something that popped into my head.

Both kinds are available. The one that I use actually contains both acetone and ethyl acetate. So far no harm noticed in any metal.
Take a long time though, around 24 hours.

7 minutes ago, JKK said:

That's unfortunate about acetone availability because one really isn't supposed to use nail polish remover. That said, if I had to choose between leaving PVC slime on the coins and using the slightly wrong thing, I'd use the slightly wrong thing. Is there any sort of a local business that uses real acetone that would let you use a little? Got a friend who works in a lab?

By the way, your Kushan piece, if your ID is correct, would be from from c.150 CE, not BCE. It's challenging to find good references for Kushan coinage. I recently went through a whole bunch of it.

My mistake, i meant AD, i.e. CE, thank you.
I'll try with a friend of mine who's a chemist. The reason why pure acetone is controlled here is related to it's use in drugs production...

Hi,

I've got these two coins, a Kanishka I circa 150 bc and a roman Constantinus II circa 340.
Both contaminated by PVC. So far no surface damage present, only sticky to touch.
How can I remove it safely? 
We have no one who do that here in Brazil, so I'm on my own.
Common coins I do it with acetone (nail polisher remover as 100% pure acetone is not available for sale without a special permit).

Thank you in advance.

6 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

Well as raw coins each is worth $.25 to maybe $1 to someone looking to add those to a state qtr album.  I find proof qtrs all the time in change from proof sets that have been broken up by dealers that wanted just one of the coins, or perhaps by heirs of a collector that just spent them.  In fact I have so many I was considering doing a date run of impaired (circulated)  statehood proof qtrs, perhaps one day.   As to the other two its not unusual to find qtrs that have a more satin or less flashy appearance, I have found that to be especially true of coins that are coined in Philadelphia but have seen some Denver mint coins like that also.  All these would make great album coins imo, or did you have a different plan for them?

Going to my album. Not easy to find them here in Brazil. Will take some time to complete both 50 States & America the Beautiful.
So, they're satin(ish) but not the official satin finish, right?
Thank you very much.

Utah

New Mexico

Got this ones in a swap.
They show signs of being circulated (scratches, etc...) , particularly the White Mountain National Forest with some wear at the hair area.
I guess it wasn't supposed to be as they're only released in mint sets, so, s mint apart, are the below Utah & New Mexico satin finish or regular?
If so, how to value them?

If not, how to spot the difference?


thank you.

Hi.
I have this 1973 quarter and comparing with other quarters (unfortunately don't have another from the same year) I noticed that the design seem closer to the rim, with the "Liberty" and "quarter dollar" actually touching the rim.
So i'm curious. Just wear off or some kind of variation?
thank you